Tools for Timing Belt Replacement: available for loan?

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:56 am

I'm looking to see if any community members have the VW sprocket buster tool and the Sealey cam crank timing took kit available to a fellow member for a timing belt replacement.

I'd cover the cost of anything that breaks, shipping both ways, and something for your trouble and my gratitude.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Jun 17, 2014 1:16 pm

Unless there is a member close to you, I think you're looking at about 40 bucks in shipping only... Your call obviously, I'd just buy the parts. The vw sprocket tool you can make yourself with 2 3/8 or 7/16 grade 8 bolts and some 1/8 metal, I made it myself for about 15 bucks from home Depot.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:02 pm

Yeah... But that green one is so much sexier and professionally powdercoated and all...

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minisub · **Posted:** Tue Jun 17, 2014 9:57 pm

That green one is purdy for sure....

I hope someone hooks you up, would make for a few less steps for you.

If it doesn't don't despair. I actually just went through this. I had ID parts toss the metal nerd tensioner wrench in the box for $24, made the sprocket tool for about $12 with a 3' chunk of angle and some nuts and bolts. I did the beesville farm pins for the cams and a drill for the crank pin. With a bench grinder and calipers the pins were easy to make. Finding 10x1.0 bolts was a bit of a pain. Ended up re-threading 1.25 pitch bolts (that worked) since I didn't want to make a second trip to my not-exactly-local Fastenal.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 18, 2014 12:20 am

I went ahead and placed an order for the tools.

After I'm done with my project, if anyone else needs to borrow them, send me a PM. I'll have the pin set and camshaft sprocket buster.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:34 pm

Another key tool you will need is the fan removal wrench. Napa sells a flat wrench, 36mm, for about $30 that will work great. My technique is to use a 12mm deep socket (1/4 drive and tie a string through it so you don't lose it) inserted through the fan pulley around the 5 o clock position to jam against the bolt that is hiding in there. Then using the flat wrench and a 1/2" drive ratchet to extend the force... Hit it with a big mallet.

The fan comes off like any other bolt - lefty-loosey. You will need to remove the fan and the shroud together, which is the main reason why I offer everyone a free fan shroud mod. Cut the shroud below both mounting tabs, there is a mold line in the plastic to help you find where to cut. The bottom of the shroud can be re-attached if you desire with some metal tabs and captured nuts (auto store has them) OR... Just throw the bottom away. It is too far from the fan to be much use in directing air, but the top works well to keep your fingers out of a moving fan.

Notch out the top to the raised ridge where the shroud needs to pass the high-pressure AC connector, and clip the driver's side corner where it passes the AC line bend. YOU DO NOT WANT TO EVER BEND OR FLEX THAT AC LINE. Cut the plastic instead.

DFWBIOFUELS2 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 12:42 pm

geordi wrote:

Another key tool you will need is the fan removal wrench. Napa sells a flat wrench, 36mm, for about $30 that will work great. My technique is to use a 12mm deep socket (1/4 drive and tie a string through it so you don't lose it) inserted through the fan pulley around the 5 o clock position to jam against the bolt that is hiding in there. Then using the flat wrench and a 1/2" drive ratchet to extend the force... Hit it with a big mallet.

The fan comes off like any other bolt - lefty-loosey. You will need to remove the fan and the shroud together, which is the main reason why I offer everyone a free fan shroud mod. Cut the shroud below both mounting tabs, there is a mold line in the plastic to help you find where to cut. The bottom of the shroud can be re-attached if you desire with some metal tabs and captured nuts (auto store has them) OR... Just throw the bottom away. It is too far from the fan to be much use in directing air, but the top works well to keep your fingers out of a moving fan.

Notch out the top to the raised ridge where the shroud needs to pass the high-pressure AC connector, and clip the driver's side corner where it passes the AC line bend. YOU DO NOT WANT TO EVER BEND OR FLEX THAT AC LINE. Cut the plastic instead.

Thank you. I'll get a 36mm wrench and use a palm nailer or similar impact device.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 1:50 pm

DFWBIOFUELS2 wrote:

Thank you. I'll get a 36mm wrench and use a palm nailer or similar impact device.

Uhm, what now? I don't think that would be much help, think about this: You have a long ratchet arm connected to a long flat wrench, and you want to apply the force to make it rotate. You would be holding the ratchet for control, and hitting the opposite side for the force. All the palm nailers I have ever seen don't apply that much force. You could just pull against the wrench like any other, but I've found it is easier and faster to just whack it with a dead-blow 2-lb mallet.

I'm sure you'll figure it out.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 4:33 pm

DFWBIOFUELS2 - the main point on that fan nut is that the base has to be held in place as there is insufficient friction in the serpentine belt to keep the fan from just slipping past the belt as you attempt to loosen it (engine rotation is in a direction that tends to tighten the fan nut as the engine runs). On the ones I've seen (4 or 5) the nut was on there REALLY tight. The only exception is one that had only been on there for a few thousand miles with anti-seize on the threads (had to come off the deal with a glow plug removal issue after the TB job) in which case it spun right off very little force.

Ideally you have 2 people so there are enough hands - 1 deals with holding the socket in place to "fix" the fan base while the other deals with the fan nut wrench and a persuader of your choice. Once the fan nut is loosened it's easy although there are a lot of threads before it comes loose.

minisub · **Posted:** Fri Jun 20, 2014 6:03 pm

I got by on the fan nut with a pipe wrench, pry bar and dead blow hammer. It came off with surprising ease based on what I have read. I also cut 3 strips of cardboard about 8 or 9 inches wide and tall enought to cover the radiator. I stuffed them down between the blades and shroud to protect the radiator from the combined fan/shroud removal process. I'm glad I did this and hadn't seen it mentioned before.

falcn · **Posted:** Sun Aug 17, 2014 11:01 pm

Anyone have these for loan? While I am in my Jeep attacking the steering hose I also need to do the TB.

Cam Locking Pins mainly needed.

Smacker · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:24 am

What is your location, there may be some next door!

falcn · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:01 am

Smacker wrote:

What is your location, there may be some next door!

didn't realize I hadn't filled that out.

I am near Pittsburgh, PA (East McKeesport) 15035. Cumberland is not very far from me.

Smacker · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:53 pm

falcn wrote:

Smacker wrote:

What is your location, there may be some next door!

didn't realize I hadn't filled that out.

I am near Pittsburgh, PA (East McKeesport) 15035. Cumberland is not very far from me.

Right around the block.......

Tools for Timing Belt Replacement: available for loan?

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