Electric throttle control light??

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:34 pm

It is a possibility. But there are many possibilities. It wasn't my accelerator pedal and it wasn't MY alternator. I am now changing the front hub assemblies. After that I will check the rear wheel speed sensors/wires

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Sep 03, 2014 3:13 am

DTC's are needed

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

What is a DTC?

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Wed Sep 03, 2014 10:16 am

You need to have your codes read. I had mine read 3 times before I went to a place where they could actually read them . I just do not know how to post the print out up here so I posted it on Facebook and posted a link.

[album]https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152243203031487&set=pb.506766486.-2207520000.1409753749.&type=3&theater[/album]

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid ... =3&theater

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

The code that I had was p0563.
So it's the battery voltage being high?
So does this mean the alternator is overcharging the battery and means I have to get a new altenator?

greiswig · **Posted:** Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:26 pm

fettersp wrote:

The code that I had was p0563.
So it's the battery voltage being high?
So does this mean the alternator is overcharging the battery and means I have to get a new altenator?

Quite possibly, and overvoltage may kill not only your battery but your various computers as well. Best to find out before you let it run any more.

Most auto parts stores worth their salt will test alternators for you if you pull it out and bring it in to them. If you have a volt meter, you could try measuring yourself at idle, but that may not tell you the whole story. Even at idle, the voltage should be about 14.2-14.5 volts steady.

It's not that hard to remove...I'd just take it some place and get it tested, and have them show you what the measurements are.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

Ok how can you tell if your computers in the jeep are fried? I just want to make sure that they aren't already fried.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

Also just today when I turned the vehicle off and then on the fuel gauge and temp guage started having a spasm and kept going left and right for a little while. The dash would also start flashing.

greiswig · **Posted:** Thu Sep 04, 2014 8:42 pm

Relax. Breathe. Get the alternator and battery checked first. The computers have some spike protection built into them, so chances are that they will be okay. Don't borrow trouble, but don't push your luck either.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

I went to oreillys today and got the alternator checked they told me it was good and running at 150 amps. I'm at a loss at this point.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

I used my voltometer and the alternator is going at around 13.28 volts when idling. Idk if that is high or not. The battery is running at 13.13 when idling and around 12.47 after turned off.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

After watching my jeep for a little while the voltage jumped up to the 18s randomly when the etc light came on. Any ideas?

greiswig · **Posted:** Sun Sep 07, 2014 5:39 pm

fettersp wrote:

I used my voltometer and the alternator is going at around 13.28 volts when idling. Idk if that is high or not. The battery is running at 13.13 when idling and around 12.47 after turned off.

That seems low to me. Optima wants charging at about 14.2v, and that's about what I have seen on mine at idle. Jumping up into the 18s would be why it threw the overvoltage code, for sure! That's really high.

Take your alternator to a better shop to get it tested...a dedicated auto electric place, and stand there and watch them run the test. But I bet your alternator's regulator is shot.

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

Ya never mind about the 13.3 mine idles at 14.5 but when that light comes on(mostly on highway) I get about 18 volts and the dash will start to flicker. I think I'm going to replace the alternator tomorrow to see if that fixes the problem.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Sep 09, 2014 9:12 am

fettersp wrote:

Ya never mind about the 13.3 mine idles at 14.5 but when that light comes on(mostly on highway) I get about 18 volts and the dash will start to flicker. I think I'm going to replace the alternator tomorrow to see if that fixes the problem.

For no longer than they run the test, they may never experience the 18 volt spike while testing. We used to have voltage regulators from before they were built into the alternator, You could get one and attach it to the wire leaving the alternator and see if that cures your problem. I think I saw a Dodge out in the shed a while ago.

My latest lightening bolt seems to have been cured by installing new front hub assemblies. The last time the vehicle had the issue, it was the left rear wheel speed sensor wire

fettersp · **Joined:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 10:54 pm **Posts:** 37

I believe it was the voltage regulator because I replaced the alternator and took a 45 min drive and didn't have any issues at all. :lol:

Electric throttle control light??

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