Last year I bought a 2002 Jeep Liberty with a 2.5" lift on it. It currently has JBA Uppers and quick disconnects. Shortly after I bought the jeep I noticed a clanking noise and excess play in the right front CV axle. I pulled the CV axle and saw that the splines on the drive shaft were bad, so that was replaced along with the bearing and seal. I replaced the cv axle with a napa axle and had it fail about 2000 miles after. I read on the forum here that the JBA CV axle that is machined to allow for additional angle to compensate for lift kit would fix the problem, so I replaced the old one with a JBA machined CV...well it did not solve the problem. I also replaced both front upper ball joints with JBA greaseable bearings during this time. I called JBA and they sent a replacement axle back that is OEM by measurements and replaced the previous JBA machined axle with the JBA OEM. It still makes the same noise as before and each time has play in the CV although no noise is present while in 4wd. Right now it is just sitting at the farm because I have no clue what to do with it after replacing the CV 3 times. If anyone else knows what to do or has had this problem, I would appreciate all the help!

Have you replaced the inner intermediate shaft or just the CV axles? Most of the time its the intermediate shaft. The cut down CV axles help fix the problem but not the overall solution. Make sure nothing is left behind the from the old shaft in the diff.

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Outlaw KJ '04 4X4 v6 Sport
Frankenlifted front, custom springs 4" rear, 23.25" F/R - 265/75 Duratracs 16x7 D windows- JBA 4.5 UCAs, Y-link - AEM Brute Intake - Rockcrusher diff cover, Mopar Front Skid, All J belly skid, Skink Sliders - EBC Green Stuff F/R - DTT Front, 4.10s

Yes I did replace it, the next time that I replaced the CV I examined it and there was no abnormalities with the shaft.

With only 2.5 inches of lift there is no real need for cut CVs .
What lift do you have?
What height are you at middle of wheel to bottom of the flare in front?
Do you run with the sway bar disconnected when off road?
208,000 with 198,000 lifted mostly all miles over 4 inches and have replaced the right side 4 times now, but one was a bad boot from NAPA, another stick went through the boot, so only two really
So if you are only at 2.5 inches ( sitting 21.5 inches in front) there has to be another issue

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

When u replaced the cv's did you reuse the stock clips? When I took my intermediate/cv shaft out to inspect them, I had a helluva time getting them seated correctly in the housing. My intermediate shaft didn't look too bad but both the diff side and cv side clips wouldn't fully lock in place. The diff side allowed the intermediate shaft to come out, and the cv wouldn't go on quite far enough to fully seat(due to worn splines and rust). To the eye, it looked like everything was together correctly, but the whole assembly was able to move in and out while driving. The cv not being seated correctly caused it to bind as well. It wasn't until I replaced the intermediate shaft/Cv that I realized it. I can see your quick disco's adding to your problem as well.

Thank you that helps alot, I replaced the stock C clips on the axle only when i replaced it. When I replaced the CV I made sure that the drive shaft was in as far as possible and heard the clip snap in when I pushed all the way in.

My stock CV axle lasted about 100,000 miles with a Frankenlift II , just replaced, maybe it's the aftermarket control arms

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O6 Limited CRD 4X4, Frankenlifted II, Magnaflow, EHM, ORM, 245/16 BFG, AllJ's Rear Rack, Lightforce Aux Lights, Tjm front bumper, Tmax winch, Scorpion diesel tuner and Baja Tested.