Coolant temperature in your case is a clear indication of thermostat failure. I wouldn't recommend an in-line thermostat, either get a stock new, either go with an updated version (a bit pricey) from turbo diesel freak on this forum.
viewtopic.php?t=75791 About turbo, our crd runs them pretty hot, and what kills a turbo is lack of lubrication and heat. So a good quality synthetic oil would take care of lubrication and heat when engine is running, but what's extremely important is the proper cool down the turbo gets, before you stop the engine. It's relatively safe to turn off the engine when turbo temperature is under oil shear temperature (under 400-ish), the lower, the better though. I do it under 300 degrees, and I'd wait more, but it takes few good minutes and I don't have the patience. Also important, when you do the cool down, turn of the Ac, this will help your cool down quite a lot since there will be less load on the engine. Now, if you don't have an egt gauge for the exhaust temperature, the manual says to leave the engine idling between 1 minute for when driving in the city without load to 4-5 minutes for when towing on the highway. Remember, this is very, very important, a new turbo not only costs good money (~1200) but it's a pain to replace.
Oil-wise, this is a never ending debate, about which oil is best. Chrysler recommends 0w40 mobil 1. This is a very good oil if you don't tow, especially in the winter. It's not a diesel dedicated oil, but works fine for crd, especially if you neuter the egr. It's also the thinnest oil in 40 weight at cold that you can buy in the states almost from any parts shop. I use it, but some folks don't like it. If you do tow regularly, I'd recommend a diesel oil such as shell rotella t6 or Mobil 1 turbo diesel truck.
Tune-wise, you should first see if you have a tune. Ask previous owner if you can, if not ask Keith at gde. He's a great guy, helps us a lot here on the forum and will let you know. I'd recommend to get the tune first thing for the jeep, then think about tcm tune. Gde tune is probably the best thing money can buy for crd.
Just check your transmission fluid you need to overfill about 1/4 inch on dipstick if I remember correctly, dipstick goes to deep in the pan.
Regarding torque converter, it's unlikely you got the "euro", so you may need to upgrade your torque converter if you go with a tune such as Eco full torque or hot tune. If you do that, go with Suncoast, best there is but a little pricey. Anyways, I'd trust more someone that builds torque converters for truck drag racing than anybody else. But if you're gentle with the throttle, you don't need to get the torque converter right away, just be gentle when accelerating and feel it starts to shudder. It usually happens when the 4th od turns on (50ish mph) or when the 5th kicks in (60-ish mph).
Turbo hoses, go with samco or mishimoto, best choices and high quality.
Viscous heater - I'd personally take the relay out, I live in Cleveland where is not hot in the winter and I don't miss it at all. Saves you some fuel.
Regarding ccv, I wouldn't worry about it. If your egr is not working or is removed (gde tune and weeks101 elbow kit), that ccv oil mist won't harm anything. Just remember to not overfill the oil, if you have oil about half way on dipstick, then ccv will push out minor oil mist volumes, as soon as you go towards full on dipstick, it pushes out more oil. Don't use ehm, especially if you're in a cold winter climate, you do more bad than good with that. If you really, really want, use a provent, you can buy it from idparts.com. But as I said, I wouldn't worry about the oil mist once you take care of the egr.
Regarding Trans tune, as I know gde can reflash your tcm to previous f37 state, and they also have a Trans tow tune, I don't know much about last since I tow twice a year few miles, and I don't need a tow flash for just that... There are few folks here that can give you more info.
Good luck with your new jeep!
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