Code P1265 help

MM53 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:29 pm

Have an 05 jeep CRD got it this morning started it ran about 30 seconds and just stopped and I'm getting a code P1265 and a code P0102 any help would be appreciated

greiswig · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 3:57 pm

The search function on this forum and Google should both help. Looks like one is for the MAP sensor, and one may indicate a glow plug is faulty. Lots of info available for both here.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 4:49 pm

This time of year, with increasingly damp and frigid ambients, many symptoms can be traced to heavily-corroded battery posts and clamps - pull the clamps, clean and wire-brush the battery posts and clamps to remove any\all corrosion - coat the posts and clamps with petroleum jelly (Vaseline), which both restores connection and insulates from humidity and moisture - reinstall terminal clamps, tighten, and yer good to go fer a 'nuther year......................

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 5:00 pm

P1265 is a #3 glow plug, the hard one to get to, code and I think P0102 may be the MAF sensor, top of the air box outlet. The latter may be unplugged, insecurely plugged, bad wire, or failed.

I'm concerned that the engine ran for 30 seconds and "just stopped" mainly because if #3 glow plug suffered a catastrophic failure, as in tip broke off, then depending on where the tip went it could stop the engine. Paranoid options:
1. it's a major hassle but you need to do it anyway - pull #3 glow plug (consider weeks kit at the same time) and replace (I'd use the Etecno1 drop in metal glow plug - consider replacing the other 3 ceramic ones at the same time) - if the tip of #3 is fine you are home free - if the tip is broken and the break is shiney then the tip is in the engine somewhere (dull break is old and tip is likely long gone)
2. you can look into #3 cylinder for a missing tip by pulling the injector and looking inside with a small bore scope.
3. consider pulling the fan and fan shroud and rotating the engine (see timing belt instructions) to make sure it's no locked up if you don't want to go directly to #1 above.

I'd at least do #3 before trying to crank.

MM53 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:26 pm

The engine still turns over freely it just won't start I want a head and replace the fuel filter on it thinking it might be clogged didn't make any difference I'm still puzzled

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Nov 13, 2014 6:43 pm

That's encouraging relative to my previous post. My first/next thought would be that all modern computer dependent vehicles are very sensitive to battery condition such that any weakness in the battery might result in crank but not ECU "permission" to inject fuel to start. Would be a good idea to have the battery load tested even if new. Also be careful on lots of cranking which runs down the battery and can fry a starter.

Since you replaced the filter I assume you have bleed all the air out of the filter head. Could be one of the two sensors on the fuel rail that's not allowing it to build pressure but IIRC that should throw a code. Could be the crank position sensor which can just fail as opposed to failing when hot and if failed won't throw a code.

Take a look at this diagnostic chart viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59446

MM53 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 12:26 am

Thank you for all the helpful information I'm going to try some starting fluid and see if I can just get it to run a little bit then if it does I know it's a fuel problem if it doesn't run that I'm gonna have the battery tested and Than go to that crank sensor thank you

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:47 am

DO NOT try starter fluid on a diesel engine as bad things can happen. Much safer to get battery checked first.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 2:00 pm

Specific reason to NOT use any type of starting fluid on this VM 2.8L CRD engine, NONE of the GM Diesel engines, and NONE of the Cummins Diesel engines is very simple:

Starting fluid usually comprises ether, or\and lacquer thinner, or\and several other extremely volatile petroleum derivatives - meaning they evaporate and flash at temperatures way below 1200*F

~1200*F is minimal combustive temperature of Diesel fuel

VM 2.8L CRD engine has glow-plugs which glow above ~1200*F

GM 6.2L, 6.5L, and DMAXX also have glow-plugs, which glow above ~1200*F - PLUS the DMAXX has an intake heater which glows above ~1200*F

CUMMIN(no g, eh)S Diesel and CRD has intake heater which glows above ~1200*f

Spray any starting fluid into large volume of intake path betwen air filter and intake manifold of VM CRD, what happens soon as intake valve opens, exposing 1200*F glow-plug to extremely volatile starting fluid vapors?

Same with GM Diesel engines, but much worse with DMAXX CRD

Why much worse with DMAXX and CUMMINS engines? Because the 1200*F glowing intake heater is fully exposed to any vapors coming thru the intake duct

What does happen when starting fluid is used on a recalcitrant Diesel engine? Immediate violent flash-back into face of the intrepid shade sprayer, which flashback usualy additionally ignites the sprayed stream at the nozzle of the can - this has resuted in the can exploding with even more serious injury to the shade behind the can

Not even a good idea, no matter what the shade's peers are "advising\encouraging\daring" him to do

MM53 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 14, 2014 7:01 pm

Thank you I'll stay away from the starting fluid I started working on it today and the batteries dead I only cranked it a couple times yesterday so I'm going to put a new battery in it I figure it's bad and go from there I'll keep you posted thanks

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2015 9:03 pm

As stated above starting fluid is a big NO NO! If it is necessary, you can use WD40.

If the mass air flow sensor is suspected, you can just unplug it to see if it will run. But if it won't even fire once then it's probably not the MAF.

Code P1265 help

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