Front wheel bearing/ hub assembly

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:21 pm

I'm staying away from that one

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:25 pm

tommudd wrote:

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

The stock nut is a 35 usually, with 36 being what if most if not all aftermarket replacements come with, just get the 36 socket like suggested, just don't do the hey this socket kinda fits routine anywhere else on the vehicle

With the CVS being of larger nut diameter and low torque for their size you'd snatch the vehicle off the jacks before boogering a 35 with a 36 and due to dirt rust and grime it may actually feel like it fits

Just don't go putting a 17 on a 15 and think you'll get away with it, I've had to rescue people who went metric on a standard and vice versa else where

And i say that with the due understanding if you're the only person in the world that some how boogers a 35 with a 36 that I'm not paying for it lol but i think even tom or troy would grab a 36 if you pulled in with unknown cv age and needed a hub.... Well dunno about Troy.. I think he's precision ocd, for good reason

You're also supposed to change the nut every time it's removed but that @#$& never happens :lol:

So I'm not OCD but Troy is ?? :shock:

I grab and whatever fits and takes it off.................
Not sure how many "new" nuts i have laying in my tool box. Someday I'm going to make my wife a bracelet out of them :wink:

I have both sizes,I always default to 35mm unless it does not fit due to being aftermarket already.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2014 8:39 pm

See... Told ya
:ROTFL:

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Aug 31, 2014 11:43 am

There are discrepancies between the torque specs I posted that I got from A-1 Auto and the torque specs in the book

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdr5TtvVzKs

I am looking at Timken, Centric, SKF, Moog / National and OEM. has anybody tried any of these? In SKF's ad they mentioned good for 100,000 miles. They will say anything in ads.

I am also looking for a good source for the cam adjustment bolt kit for the lower control arm, the lower control arms, stabilizer links and 3 bearing bolts per side.

Is it necessary to change the hub nut each time you remove it as I have been told? If so I need 4 of them also

Lug nuts 19 mm 100 ft lbs.

12 mm caliper bolts 25 ft lbs - A1 Book - 11 ft. lbs

21 mm Caliper bracket bolts Book - 100 ft lbs

35 or 36 mm hub nut 100 ft lbs - A1 Book - 100 ft. lbs.

3 E-14 bearing bolts Book - 96 lbs.

I haven't found a part number for the cam adjustment bolt kit yet

Cam bolt 2 each 06507912aa, 06102252AA 2 NUT, Hex Flange Lock, 125 ft lbs.

52088649AC 2 control arm BUSHING, Pivot

52088662AB 2 LINK, Sway Eliminator

4 06503088 3 J, T BOLT, Knuckle to Bearing 125 ft lbs.

5 HUB AND BEARING, Brake
52128692AE 1 J, T Right
52128693AE 1 J, T Left

Lower control arm bolts 13/16 and 15/16 125 ft. lbs

Can anybody help me verify proper torque specs?

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2014 1:47 am

Skf and tim are good bets. As were the national and moog , ice never used centric hubs since i figure why gamble when i know for sure two of the others are fine and in same ball park price wise, sec will compare your tq chart to mine after i limp out to the shop

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Tue Sep 02, 2014 2:04 am

Hub nut 100ft/lbs
Hub to knuckle bolts 96ft/lbs
Lca bolts 125ft/lbs
Caliper
Mounting bracket to knuckle 100ft/lbs
Caliper to mount 132 inch or 15nm that's in the 11ft/lbs range

Don't know of anyone that carries the lca cam bolts other than dealers, they're about 50 bucks each. They typically get reused

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Wed Sep 03, 2014 5:41 pm

Love all the torque specs right here in the thread. I'll be doing the job this next Monday.

I took the front wheels off and sprayed down the axle nuts, hub bolts, and caliper bolts with PB Blaster to get them started, and I'll give them another dose on Monday before I get started with the tear down. Any quirks I need to worry about with the job? What are some common sticking points to be on the lookout for?

I thought I read that the axle nut was 175 Ft Lbs :dizzy:

Glad I read here that it was only 100 Ft Lbs. Excited to get rid of the growling.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Wed Sep 03, 2014 6:29 pm

Somebody please double check me on the lug nut size and torque spec

The hardest part of the whole process for me is getting the left speed sensor disconnected and reconnected.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 04, 2014 5:54 am

lug nuts
3/4" or 19mm and 85-100ft/lbs and retorque after 100 miles or so

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Fri Sep 05, 2014 10:46 pm

Does any sort of lubricant or grease need to be applied where the splines of the axle mate? I saw a youtube video that said to put brake grease on the mating face of the hub to the knuckle - what's the purpose of that?

JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

I always used bearing grease. To hopefully keep the splines from "rusting" together.

Sent with the power of children's screams!!!

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Sun Sep 07, 2014 7:58 pm

Just got done doing the hubs on both sides of my Jeep. Before today, I've only ever taken off the wheel. Get ready to laugh, first side took about 3 hours, second side about an hour and 15. Lost a big chunk of time on the first one cause father in law thought the hub needed to go on with the abs sensor under the caliper. Got it buttoned up then staring at it decided it wasn't supposed to go that way. >.<

Anyways, I'll be damned but those torx bolts on the hub weren't designed for 100 ft lbs to be put on them. I got the one side close and the stars were getting a bit gnarled and threatening to really ruin my day. I remembered seeing on here that there was a discrepancy between 50 in one book and 100 in another. I ended up going 60 ft lbs. I didn't use the air ratchet on the second side which might have started the issue. Regardless, want to know whether I have to crawl back underneath there to put a hurting on those bolts. Is it possible to buy replacement bolts with a metric/sae head to replace those?

Oh, and lacking a 21mm socket I used a 13/16ths to remove my caliper brackets and it was 98% tight as a drum and if you handed it to me and I didn't look I'd have thought it was made for the bolts. The ABS light was on for a few seconds after I got the second hub on, but thankfully i think it was because I didn't pump the brakes before starting it up. >.< Gave me quite the scare! Don't want to do this again for a long time.

The_dealer · **Joined:** Wed Jan 08, 2014 8:41 pm **Posts:** 129

4x4kayak2112 wrote:

I always used bearing grease. To hopefully keep the splines from "rusting" together.

Sent with the power of children's screams!!!

I used Lucas Red N Tacky Xtra HD grease about a year ago when I changed my intermediate shaft and cv's. I had it apart this last week and it did a good job keeping things from sticking together. I also checked the splines on my intermediate shaft, and it was still packed with grease. It's highly resistant to water and would be a good choice to grease front end parts and joints

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Wed Sep 10, 2014 5:52 pm

Tiarnon wrote:

Just got done doing the hubs on both sides of my Jeep. Before today, I've only ever taken off the wheel. Get ready to laugh, first side took about 3 hours, second side about an hour and 15. Lost a big chunk of time on the first one cause father in law thought the hub needed to go on with the abs sensor under the caliper. Got it buttoned up then staring at it decided it wasn't supposed to go that way. >.<

Anyways, I'll be damned but those torx bolts on the hub weren't designed for 100 ft lbs to be put on them. I got the one side close and the stars were getting a bit gnarled and threatening to really ruin my day. I remembered seeing on here that there was a discrepancy between 50 in one book and 100 in another. I ended up going 60 ft lbs. I didn't use the air ratchet on the second side which might have started the issue. Regardless, want to know whether I have to crawl back underneath there to put a hurting on those bolts. Is it possible to buy replacement bolts with a metric/sae head to replace those?

Oh, and lacking a 21mm socket I used a 13/16ths to remove my caliper brackets and it was 98% tight as a drum and if you handed it to me and I didn't look I'd have thought it was made for the bolts. The ABS light was on for a few seconds after I got the second hub on, but thankfully i think it was because I didn't pump the brakes before starting it up. >.< Gave me quite the scare! Don't want to do this again for a long time.

I bought 6 new bolts because I stripped one putting it back in. I ended up using 4. 06503088 3 J, T BOLT, Knuckle to Bearing 96 ft. lbs.

They should be torqued to 96 ft. lbs.

I double checked my book and 2 dealerships.

I don't know that a hex head would fit there. I think you are better off with new Torx head bolts.

I used Never-seez on everything, including the spline as I always have on the GM's I have.

Tiarnon · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 9:26 pm

Do you happen to have a link to those bolts? I tried searching it in google and only found a link to A1 parts facebook page.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:29 pm

Tiarnon wrote:

Do you happen to have a link to those bolts? I tried searching it in google and only found a link to A1 parts facebook page.

I bought them from the dealer. There was a dealer within driving distance that had them in stock.

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/JE ... 03088.html

The dealer charged me $5.50 ea but I got the job done with NO waiting

I have found that googling the part number usually brings up some results. Then I go to Amazon and search the part number. Then I check Rockauto.com, Then maybe I search the part number on Ebay

By the way thanks to everybody for the advice and torques specs on this.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Sun Nov 23, 2014 6:48 pm

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

Hub nut 100ft/lbs
Hub to knuckle bolts 96ft/lbs
Lca bolts 125ft/lbs
Caliper
Mounting bracket to knuckle 100ft/lbs
Caliper to mount 132 inch or 15nm that's in the 11ft/lbs range

Don't know of anyone that carries the lca cam bolts other than dealers, they're about 50 bucks each. They typically get reused

I just want to make sure I understand here. I replaced the front brakes and rotors yesterday and didn't have a clue how tight everything should be.

The two large bolts that hold the brake pad carrier are to be torqued at 100 ft/lb? The two smaller bolts that go into the sliders and hold the calipers are 11 ft/lb?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:17 am

KD6ICZ wrote:

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

Hub nut 100ft/lbs
Hub to knuckle bolts 96ft/lbs
Lca bolts 125ft/lbs
Caliper
Mounting bracket to knuckle 100ft/lbs
Caliper to mount 132 inch or 15nm that's in the 11ft/lbs range

Don't know of anyone that carries the lca cam bolts other than dealers, they're about 50 bucks each. They typically get reused

I just want to make sure I understand here. I replaced the front brakes and rotors yesterday and didn't have a clue how tight everything should be.

The two large bolts that hold the brake pad carrier are to be torqued at 100 ft/lb? The two smaller bolts that go into the sliders and hold the calipers are 11 ft/lb?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Sounds correct

bigE.94 · **Joined:** Wed Jul 01, 2015 2:00 am **Posts:** 48

So can anybody give me a timkins part number for both left and right hubs? 2005 liberty crd 4x4.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:13 am

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

And no they (timkens) aren't the most expensive but they are not cheap in comparison to stock house life time warranty bearings, but they are leagues ahead in quality whether you can spend more for an even better product is neither here nor there

Actually it is here and there. Because that was the question I asked.

I saw bearings that were more expensive. Not a great deal more money and possibly cheaper in the long run, if they in fact are better quality than Timken

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00FZH0AC6

https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA599467- ... B000BZ53U6

https://www.google.com/search?q=Timken+ ... 8&oe=utf-8

Front wheel bearing/ hub assembly

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