My 05 CRD started and then just died this morning, Help!

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 2:33 pm

My o5 with 80000 miles on it just died and wouldn't start this morning. I stepped out the house to start and get it warmed up before heading to work just like i always do, and about 30 seconds after starting, it just died and wouldn't restart. It would crank but not fire off. I bought it used one owner and the only thing changed so far is the Turbo and associated components, ie hoses, cooler, etc. I have owned it about 4 months and it has run great. I have unplugged the air flow sensor to aid in keeping the EGR valve closed. It mainly gets drove on pave roads but this weekend i took it to deer camp and was traveling on gravel roads but that's the only thing I've done different lately. It was raining yesterday and i hit some standing water and splashed through but not terribly fast. It still has the old style filter housing and i know that might give me problems. I was just wondering if any of you guy's might give me some suggestions as what might have caused it to just die after starting when it drove great all weekend. I remember someone once said there are some connectors on the fuel tank that may leak and draw air into the system, i'm just wondering if this could happen especially bouncing down gravel roads. I'll give it a once over this evening when i get home. I'd appreciate any suggestions anyone might have to point me in a direction to look. Thanks, Eric

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:38 pm

There are several things that might cause this:
First, pump the fuel head up until it is good and hard and crack open the bleeder valve on top of the fuel head and see if you get any air. (like bleeding brakes) If air is present, keep pumping up and bleeding until all air is gone and you get nothing but pure fuel with no air. Catch fuel in clear container and inspect visual condition while you are at it.
Pump up fuel head after final bleed and try and start engine. If it starts, you have an air leak somewhere ie. fittings at fuel tank, or at heater plugin on fuel head. Do you know if it has a second generation fuel head or not?
Second, did it make any bad noises when it quit running? If so, it may have stripped the teeth on the timing belt or broke the belt altogether.... :banghead:

Do you know if it has had a timing belt replaced???
Other common problems that could cause this are: crank sensor went bad, FPS (fuel pressure sensor) may have went bad.
Bad or contaminated fuel with water in it could also cause this... :roll:

Keep us posted as to what you find!

greiswig · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 3:41 pm

Check engine light come on? Did you get any codes? Otherwise we're just spitballing, but WWDiesel's suggestions are good.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 4:07 pm

greiswig wrote:

Check engine light come on? Did you get any codes? Otherwise we're just spitballing, but WWDiesel's suggestions are good.

He stated he had the MAF unplugged to disable the EGR, so he would have had a DTC already set. Certainly could read the codes with a good scanner and see if any other codes are present besides any of the P0100 - P0104 all MAF DAT's.
If crank sensor or FPS sensor went bad, it should have set a hard DTC... :wink:

Maverick · **Joined:** Mon Nov 30, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1

how cold is it if its to cold the fuel will gel

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:11 pm

Thanks for the info on where to look at first. I have a code reader and intend to find out if any codes were given. It's not too cold here right now over the weekend it was in mid 50's and this morning it was about mid to upper 30's and warming up through the day. As soon as i get home after work i'll look for codes and try the pump and bleed. It still has the old filter housing on it. I just called the dealership and they don't have one, of course, and said they are on back order and can't tell me when they could get one. :furious:

If it turns out to be a problem with the filter housing i may have to go on a search for one, because the dealers aren't going to. I've been thinking of changing it anyway, i think now would be a good time to do that. Anybody got any leads on one. I'll sure let you know what i find. Someone stated about the timing belt, no it's not been changed, it didn't make any noise at all just run for 30s and quit. I plan to do the belt real soon and a lot of other things too it just takes me time to budget all that in.
JEB

greiswig · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:18 pm

If you end up with a replacement, I recommend the Parker/Racor. I use one of their 400 series hand-primed units and a 2-micron filter on it. The fuel heater is in the bowl, and you can even get a temperature sensor that is compatible with the R values the stock sensor sees. With the 60 series filter, it bolts in place with very little modification to the stock mount. IIRC, I just had to make two small spacers to make it work.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 5:47 pm

Don't EVER go to the dealer for anything! IDparts can supply all the parts you might want, and the timing belt kit they offer comes with everything you need to replace on the project.

If you need help with the labor for the timing belt, I'm the guy that travels around doing that for people, and the more things that can be done at the same time, the better the total cost works out to be. That belt is WAY too old to be left in service much longer, so plan to replace that as soon as you can. Mileage doesn't matter any more, it is all about the age now.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:04 pm

Well - even when my original fuel head was leaking air - I never reached a 'will not start' granted you might get there if it leaked a lot - but I think you could manually pump the fuel head to the point it's solid and it would at least start.

I'm a lot more concerned about an 05 with the original timing belt - I think the recommendation was 6 year change regardless of mileage.

Papa posted this on another 'will not start' thread - I think it's a good test.

Quote:

Another quick check is to pull the driver side CAC hose; have someone hold a $1 bill in front of the FCV; crank the engine; if the bill is pulled toward the FCV your rockers are probably ok and the TB is likely ok; if the bill is pushed away then 1 or more rockers are shot and the TB jumped time.

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:07 pm

Yes I know about the STEALERS but I did look at id parts and they list it on order too. I was just trying to locate one. I just checked it out and it's the filter head. I tryed pumping it up and see bubbles coming out the heater plug, so looks like I need to start there. If id parts has them on order and the dealer told me they are backed ordered and couldn't give me a est. date it would be available, I wonder what's up with this. Is this an indication that parts are going to be hard to get for these little jewels. I hope not! The codes were po102, po610. I know one is because of the maf sensor unplugged but not sure of the other. If anyone has a heads up on a fuel filter housing i'd appreciate it.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:18 pm

Worst case on parts - should be able to order from Europe or Oz - they sold a lot over there.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 10:59 pm

Amazon has them for 120:
http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE
Factory Mopar Parts has them for 85:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68043089aa.html
Ebay has them for 95:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=68043089AA&_sop=15

search for the new OEM part number: 68043089AA

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:30 pm

WWDiesel thanks for the heads up on the part. I planned on searching for one tomorrow. This info has saved me time in doing it. Thanks!

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Nov 24, 2014 11:46 pm

In the meantime, here is an easy fix to get you on the road again:

Spray out the plug with brake cleaner, you want to get all the fresh diesel out of there. Let it dry while you get a tube of RTV (silicone, doesn't really matter which flavor, red black or blue should all be fine as long as they are FRESH)

Take the RTV, and fill the plug socket with it. Completely. Leave it alone to fully cure, and once it has - prime the head a bit (don't go crazy!), and you will be on the road again.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 8:22 pm

greiswig wrote:

The fuel heater is in the bowl, and you can even get a temperature sensor that is compatible with the R values the stock sensor sees.

I would LOVE YOU LONG TIME (ok, maybe not..but it looked good)..if you could find that part # for the FTS that will screw into the Parker assembly ! :mrgreen:

I believe this assembly will work.

Code:

http://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/490r122_parker_racor_fuel_filter_water_separator_assembly.html

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 8:59 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Amazon has them for 120:
http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE
Factory Mopar Parts has them for 85:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68043089aa.html
Ebay has them for 95:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=68043089AA&_sop=15

search for the new OEM part number: 68043089AA

Well I ordered one from factorymoparparts. I don't know an out this after I ordered. I never got a delivery date conformation. I tried to call and got a recording to leave a message and the message box was full. Now what kind of business has a phone system that the message box is full. That sight has a lot of flash and comes across as a big parts place but I'm starting g to have my doubts. I'll see if they can deliver in a timely matter. I probably should of went with Amazon I e always had good luck with it.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 9:24 pm

JEBCRD wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Amazon has them for 120:
http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE
Factory Mopar Parts has them for 85:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68043089aa.html
Ebay has them for 95:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=68043089AA&_sop=15

search for the new OEM part number: 68043089AA

Well I ordered one from factorymoparparts. I don't know an out this after I ordered. I never got a delivery date conformation. I tried to call and got a recording to leave a message and the message box was full. Now what kind of business has a phone system that the message box is full. That sight has a lot of flash and comes across as a big parts place but I'm starting g to have my doubts. I'll see if they can deliver in a timely matter. I probably should of went with Amazon I e always had good luck with it.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dak ... s-com.html

From the "About us" page:
The online catalog is to be used as a reference guide. And does not reflect the availability or stocking status of the items. Due to monthly manufacturer updates, They will occasionally discontinue or suppercede a part number, thus effecting a price change or availability. Shipping rates may differ from what originally shows if shipping out of the United States or products are larger or heavier. We WILL NOT charge your credit card if this happens until we contact you and inform you of the new price.

This seems to suggest what I had suspected: This isn't a parts supplier - they just call in an order from their website to the local dealership, and get a wholesale discount for whatever is ordered, and the dealership does the actual shipping to you. Moparpartsamerica is exactly the same kind of outfit, and the "in stock" on their website is HIGHLY SUSPECT b/c they have no clue what is available or not.

You may want to place the order for the one on Amazon, and then try dealing with these guys (or guy) once normal business hours are happening - they are based in a location in Tampa, Florida. If they won't cancel the order, then you may have to dispute it with your credit card.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 9:55 pm

geordi wrote:

they are based in a location in Tampa, Florida. If they won't cancel the order, then you may have to dispute it with your credit card.

I live like 1 hour south of Tampa...Want me to go up there and break bad on them? :BANANA:

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:04 pm

geordi wrote:

JEBCRD wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Amazon has them for 120:
http://www.amazon.com/LIBERTY-FILTER-HOUSING-DIESEL-HEATER/dp/B005T3EOBE
Factory Mopar Parts has them for 85:
http://www.factorymoparparts.com/68043089aa.html
Ebay has them for 95:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=68043089AA&_sop=15

search for the new OEM part number: 68043089AA

Well I ordered one from factorymoparparts. I don't know an out this after I ordered. I never got a delivery date conformation. I tried to call and got a recording to leave a message and the message box was full. Now what kind of business has a phone system that the message box is full. That sight has a lot of flash and comes across as a big parts place but I'm starting g to have my doubts. I'll see if they can deliver in a timely matter. I probably should of went with Amazon I e always had good luck with it.

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dak ... s-com.html

From the "About us" page:
The online catalog is to be used as a reference guide. And does not reflect the availability or stocking status of the items. Due to monthly manufacturer updates, They will occasionally discontinue or suppercede a part number, thus effecting a price change or availability. Shipping rates may differ from what originally shows if shipping out of the United States or products are larger or heavier. We WILL NOT charge your credit card if this happens until we contact you and inform you of the new price.

This seems to suggest what I had suspected: This isn't a parts supplier - they just call in an order from their website to the local dealership, and get a wholesale discount for whatever is ordered, and the dealership does the actual shipping to you. Moparpartsamerica is exactly the same kind of outfit, and the "in stock" on their website is HIGHLY SUSPECT b/c they have no clue what is available or not.

You may want to place the order for the one on Amazon, and then try dealing with these guys (or guy) once normal business hours are happening - they are based in a location in Tampa, Florida. If they won't cancel the order, then you may have to dispute it with your credit card.

That's exactly what I read and came to the same conclusion. I think I will do the amazon route. I'm gona call credit card and cancel it.

JEBCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 25, 2014 10:07 pm

ArmyChief wrote:

geordi wrote:

they are based in a location in Tampa, Florida. If they won't cancel the order, then you may have to dispute it with your credit card.

I live like 1 hour south of Tampa...Want me to go up there and break bad on them? :BANANA:

I'm thinking they may be hard to locate. I don't think they will be a brick and mortor outfit.

My 05 CRD started and then just died this morning, Help!

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