So... How many times has "ALT-CTL-DEL" fixed your CRD?

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:23 pm

It has worked twice for me so far. First time was when my TCU threw a code about the speed sensors on the trans. Started the Lib, started to move forward, realized it was in limp mode. Stopped, turned ignition completely off, restarted and all was fine! (I did replace the sensors the next day)

Today. The "mystery no power" happened to me. Started, drove three blocks, made right to get on freeway. The minute I stepped on it I think at least one or two pistons started missing and had virtually no power. When TC would try to lock it would start shaking and loosing power. Drove it home with OD off. When I exited the freeway it died. Restarted WITHOUT turning key off and it was still running badly. It died again. Turned key completely off, restarted, ran like nothing was wrong!

Do these ECU's have brain farts?

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LS12FAST4U · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:55 am

Had something similar happen once long ago. Was driving and it started running like complete crap. It never died but I restarted it and all had been good sense.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:25 pm

2 things cause this issue regularly.

#1 - Bad or getting bad Battery.

#2 - Air in fuel.

I would attempt to resolve both, last thing you need is limp mode at 70MPH.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:33 pm

I've never had any issues with the ECU since I solved my fuel supply (lift pump and filtration) and battery (it was the OEM and it died) issues. Other than that, the ECU/BCM have been doing exactly what they should do.

Dan

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 12:41 pm

I think most "mystery no power" events are caused by air-in-fuel or a crudded up fuel filter.
But it could also a bad sensor or sensor connection where the ECU senses something wrong
and freaks out. When you turn the key off and back on, the ECU senses that everything is
ok and everything works normal again.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:02 pm

If a sensor was reporting out of compliance data I would expect a code... Am I wrong? The other weird thing was I was unable to communicate with the ECU until I disconnected the battery for a couple of minutes...

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racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:08 pm

Hexus wrote:

2 things cause this issue regularly.

#1 - Bad or getting bad Battery.

#2 - Air in fuel.

I would attempt to resolve both, last thing you need is limp mode at 70MPH.

Add one more to this......The famous turbo over or under boost, indicative of the turbo vanes being gunked up with hardened crud, preventing them from opening properly.
Follow the turbo cleaning procedure on this board and blow the crud out.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 1:54 pm

Where is the turbo cleaning thread?

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papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:57 pm

Not completely sure what you mean by turbo cleaning but:
1. how to check boost pressure solenoid function - viewtopic.php?f=5&t=70602&p=757348&hilit=boost+solenoid#p757348 Replace if bad
2. how to check variable vane actuator rod function per GDE "You can check the vane functionality at idle in park. Underneath the vacuum actuator on the turbo is rod extending downward connected to the vane mechanism. If you pull off the vacuum line at the turbo, the arm should drop about 1/2 inch and then raise back up after reconnecting the vacuum line. It is a bit difficult to see the rod, but this is the easiest method to check for proper VGT vane moevment."
3. if not moving enough the vanes are likely gummed up. The simple approach to cleaning the vanes is an "Italian" tuneup. Get the engine up to operating temp and do 2-3 full throttle accelerations up a slight grade, similar grade to a hwy on ramp but not actually on an on ramp. The idea is to get the exhaust hot enough to burn off the gunk on the vanes. If that doesn't work some have used like oven cleaner on the vanes. I'm not clear on how that's done though but IIRC you can get access by undoing the exhaust marmon clamp.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:09 pm

I've never taken apart a turbo but I would assume the veins are on the exhaust side since they get gummed up?

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Joe Dirt · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:19 pm

Mine has been doing that very same thing 3 or 4 times a year since it has had 65000 miles on it or so. I am now pushing 120,000 miles. I don't even get out anymore to check anything, all I do is shut it off and restart it. Some times it takes 2 or 3 times of starting and shutting off for it to run OK. It will then run fine for 4 months or so. I have a GDE tune now but it did it before the tune also. I don't know what causes it.

Hexus · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:03 pm

9 times out of 10.

No CEL + Limp mode = Air in Fuel, Battery Voltage, Turbo issue (possibly)

CEL + Limp mode = Transmission Problem

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:16 pm

Probably a dozen times since new - virtually all - related to some sort of Fuel issue.

MRausch82 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:17 pm

Hexus wrote:

9 times out of 10.

No CEL + Limp mode = Air in Fuel, Battery Voltage, Turbo issue (possibly)

CEL + Limp mode = Transmission Problem

I got an overboost code one time about 20K ago and it went into limp mode. Today I topped off the fuel tank, and when I restarted it, it ran for about 5 seconds and died. Started right back up and all was well. Had the AC on, and seemed that it happened when the AC clutch engaged, though I may be wrong there. Not worried about it... was probably air in the fuel system...

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 10, 2013 8:22 am

Well... I'm not sure where to start. Or do I not worry about it until something breaks? I could buy a new battery. I have no idea how old the Interstate Magatron 2 is that's in there and I have killed it a couple of times by leaving something plugged it the CIG.

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Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Sep 10, 2013 12:41 pm

With all the electronics you have installed, I would strongly recommend a Sears P1, but there are also other less expensive alternatives.

If you wait until they go on sale you can probably save about $40-50.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 10, 2013 7:15 pm

I take it nobody puts the OEM Red Top in anymore? I for one don't think they are what they used to be...

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ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 10, 2013 11:02 pm

Optima's aren't the same anymore - Johnson Controls bought them - closed the plant in Colorado and moved all production to Mexico.

Quality's not the same.

KD6ICZ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 05, 2014 10:17 pm

Just curious... How many of you are / were running the GDE Hot Tune when this happened? Mine just did it again and I just reflashed the Hot Tune last week. I was running the Hot Tune the first time it happened too. But the 15 months I ran the EcoTune Full Torque it never happened.

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gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 06, 2014 1:55 am

Why have you ignored all the POINTED references to similar failures due to air in the fuel?
An auxiliary external lift pump would be but a spit in the bucket compared to the costs of all that electrical junk you've installed, eh........

And, Hot tune invariably requires more fuel than ECO tune in many, many instances

Also, no real-time aldl OBDII monitor will ever function with the KJ's communication busses because the ABS module doesn't understand sharing - buss contention can cause havoc with engine and power-train management, requiring power-cycle or\and scantool reset

Get your fuel-supply issues fixed, and we can talk about any other symptoms...................if they occur

So... How many times has "ALT-CTL-DEL" fixed your CRD?

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