Considering a CRD........

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2014 1:03 pm

jkazak wrote:

This..... is very encouraging. The main reason for thinking warranty is - of course - for major mechanical breakdown. I don't know how anyone could tell if it had a GDE Ecotune. I spoke with the local Service Manager again and he was VERY supportive about the purchase... even offering third party recommendations for any work needed - it helps that he's a relative.

Keep the thoughts and opinions coming - thank you.

Be prepared to spend between 2k and 3k on upgrades and improvements to get the Jeep to a very reliable and bullet proof state. (this is if you do most of the labor yourself, hire it done and the price goes out the roof!)
Items to consider that will need replacing or upgrading to a 10 year old Jeep CRD. (been there, done that)
*No. 1, Get a tune, GDE or a Sergio (available for free download on this forum if you want to do it yourself)
*A Tune disables the EGR which dumps carbon into the intake and makes the engine die a slow death!!!
Timing belt, water pump, and all tension pulleys
Serpentine belt and tensioner pulley
Install a fuel lift pump (in tank) and a secondary 2 micron fuel filter to fully protect the injection pump and injectors.
Remove CAT if you don't have to pass an inspection. (replace it with a straight piece of exhaust pipe)
Consider replacing muffler with a free flowing type like a Flowmaster
Torque Converter, Hemi or Suncoast type, replace front pump and install Transgo kit at same time while tranny is out for TC replacement. Install new filters and fluid, ATF+4 only.
Boost hoses, like Samcos. Air box to turbo hose, (they seem to split a lot from the oil)
Provent filter, (to keep the oil out of the turbo inlet hose)
Coil Springs (4, OEM ones sag over time), Shocks at the same time you replace springs.
Upper and lower ball joints, they seem to be a high wear item with age. 4 of them.
Alternator override pulley, they seem to wear out a lot.
Battery, must be kept in top shape, weak ones won't start engine in cold weather.
Glow plugs, 4 of them
Head gasket, studs, and rockers (while you in there) if it starts loosing water
thermostat, they seem to quite working over time
Normal items like brake pads, tires, etc...
These are most of the basics.....all of these and more are covered on this forum in various threads.
Be very prepared with knowledge of what you are undertaking... :wink:

I love mine, but it was not cheap or easy getting it to a high quality state! :mrgreen:

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2014 4:08 pm

Personally for what it cost us so far - $15000 and what we will need to invest to keep it up, I would rather have found a nice 1999 GM 4x4 Suburban and put the upgrades on it. I could sit up right in a Suburban. I can't shut the door without leaning sideways and the door hits me in the shoulder til I get out no matter which side I sit on. We're in to deep to get out now, So we will be running this thing for years to get our value out of it.

When you consider the cost of maintenance on CRD verse the little bit of extra fuel mileage we are seeing, I would go for the Suburban every time.

What does a timing belt change cost every 70 - 100,000 miles on these? $2000?

A 6.5 diesel Suburban costs about $600 in routine maintenance - injectors - every 100,000 miles

mudquest · **Joined:** Mon Jul 09, 2012 12:49 pm **Posts:** 6

It'll be a great little truck for you. No, you don't need to rush off and blow $3k on 'would be' mods. Only a few things are really necessary for actual ownership. A timing belt being most vital, but you're only at like 65k on the ticker. Take a deep breath... your jeep won't self destruct tomorrow on route to morning coffee.

The parts can be had for a complete timing belt procedure for $399. A timing belt alone, about $100. Really. People here will highly suggest going the whole route with pulleys, tensioner, water pump - and I would recommend as well. But what's necessary is the timing belt itself. Sure, by getting to that part it's best to also replace a few other bits since you've already got them removed. It's a doable job with experienced help. Otherwise find a recommended tech for your area from this forum. Labor shouldn't be unreasonable for this kind of tear down and rebuild. $300 to $400 tops. Buy the parts yourself. It'll save you $$.

Rockers, head bolts, lift pumps, yada yada - don't rack your brain. All these things are excellent at helping your jeep live a long life at best performance. Necessary? Total judgement call. This is a 'technical' forum with a great deal of useful information. I wouldn't be overly intimidated if I were you. It's your CRD now.

You've just put your toes in the water - the waters warm though - feel free to jump in whenever ready. :SOMBRERO:

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:38 am

mudquest wrote:

It'll be a great little truck for you. No, you don't need to rush off and blow $3k on 'would be' mods. Only a few things are really necessary for actual ownership. A timing belt being most vital, but you're only at like 65k on the ticker. Take a deep breath... your jeep won't self destruct tomorrow on route to morning coffee.

The parts can be had for a complete timing belt procedure for $399. A timing belt alone, about $100. Really. People here will highly suggest going the whole route with pulleys, tensioner, water pump - and I would recommend as well. But what's necessary is the timing belt itself. Sure, by getting to that part it's best to also replace a few other bits since you've already got them removed. It's a doable job with experienced help. Otherwise find a recommended tech for your area from this forum. Labor shouldn't be unreasonable for this kind of tear down and rebuild. $300 to $400 tops. Buy the parts yourself. It'll save you $$.

Rockers, head bolts, lift pumps, yada yada - don't rack your brain. All these things are excellent at helping your jeep live a long life at best performance. Necessary? Total judgement call. This is a 'technical' forum with a great deal of useful information. I wouldn't be overly intimidated if I were you. It's your CRD now.

You've just put your toes in the water - the waters warm though - feel free to jump in whenever ready. :SOMBRERO:

I'm with you here, I'd just get a timing belt and after 60-ish thousands I'd get the full set. I am not a believer of 100k miles timing belt replacement interval, I'd go with European service schedule that mentioned 100k km which is about 60k miles. Every 2 timing belts replace water pump and all bearings (rollers and tensioner) - pretty much the 399 set from idparts. That time you can also flush your coolant. The water pump seems to hold over 100k easy, mine was good at about 120k when I decided to replace it when I did the rocker change. If the rollers have no grease marks like the bearing is leaking and don't make funny noises, reuse them. Same with tensioner, even though for your peace of mind you could replace it, your call.

Lift pump may not be needed, especially if you have a 2nd gen filter head. But it's a good preventive maintenance and also it helps your cp3 high pressure fuel pump that's on the engine.

After timing belt the most important thing I'd say it's gde tune, due to egr disable and also improve fuel efficiency, torque, power and mileage. You may also need a new torque converter and front trans pump, you should try to see if your jeep has a service history, sometimes you can get that from carfax or dealer, maybe you already have a new gen front trans pump.

After you get all those things, if you like to keep adding stuff to your jeep, do the provent, weeks intake, additional fuel pump, additional filters, etc, etc. all those are great mods that will extend and prevent some issues.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:24 pm

jrsavoie wrote:

Personally for what it cost us so far - $15000 and what we will need to invest to keep it up, I would rather have found a nice 1999 GM 4x4 Suburban and put the upgrades on it. I could sit up right in a Suburban. I can't shut the door without leaning sideways and the door hits me in the shoulder til I get out no matter which side I sit on. We're in to deep to get out now, So we will be running this thing for years to get our value out of it.

When you consider the cost of maintenance on CRD verse the little bit of extra fuel mileage we are seeing, I would go for the Suburban every time.

What does a timing belt change cost every 70 - 100,000 miles on these? $2000?

A 6.5 diesel Suburban costs about $600 in routine maintenance - injectors - every 100,000 miles

Not even a close comparison

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2014 8:31 pm

Have tightly read all about the factory crankcase vent and devices like provent. Heard people talking about how these motors (gaskets/seals) need the positive pressure. So, I'm holding off on provent. IN my opinion (just that.), GDE Eco tune (eliminates almost all of EGR, fixes some gauge calibrations and decreases soot in oil) along with Sasquatch Intake Elbow (some call the weeks kit), along with TB, synthetic oil change (Mobil 1 or LubiMoly 5W-40) & Redline in differentials are a first. Of course how your vehicle holds up will also be based off what the previous owner did/did not do

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:00 pm

There is no tune that will stop the oil vapors from entering the turbo intake boot from the CCV hose unless you have done a EHM or added a ProVent filter between the CCV and the intake boot....

Most have come to the sound conclusion based on several diesel motor manufacturers requirements, including CAT and Cummins, and all the literature available and posted on a couple of threads on this forum that a slight negative crankcase pressure is required for proper operation of these modern diesel motors... Without it, it could cause several problems.
A properly installed ProVent filter setup connected in series between the CCV and turbo intake boot will provide this and keep the oil vapors out of the intake boot.

It is your motor, make your own decisions hopefully based on the best information available....knowledge is a wonderful thing!
:5SHOTS:

camo · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2014 11:18 pm

I have had mine for 5 years and 50k miles. Has done nothing to it besides maintenance and common wear items such as shocks, brakes, rotors, belts etc...
Here is what you need.
-Timing belt service every 100k or 8 years.
-GDE tune
-Be happy :JEEPIN:

-Enjoy the bitter experiences of people that can't keep up with maintenance and blame the libby.

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Fri Dec 12, 2014 11:48 pm

camo wrote:

I have had mine for 5 years and 50k miles. Has done nothing to it besides maintenance and common wear items such as shocks, brakes, rotors, belts etc...
Here is what you need.
-Timing belt service every 100k or 8 years.
-GDE tune
-Be happy :JEEPIN:

-Enjoy the bitter experiences of people that can't keep up with maintenance and blame the libby.

That sounds like a lot of maintenance in 50,000 miles

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:46 am

Brakes and rotors in 5 years might be normal if he drives aggressive and /or lives in a city. 5 years ain't bad. You'd want to pull the wheel and check caliper pins ANYWAY after 5 years.

Shocks ... Might have had original on them... Help is now 9-10 years old... Putting a new, improved on would be feasable.

Belts, again.. Maybe not based off mileage, but 5 years (he only tables less than 9-10,000 a year... Might have some cracking.

Sounds like he err's on the side of precaution. Not a bad thing. I typically read about the guys who :

Get $12.95 oil changes, go 7k-10k miles between changes
Never change their transmission fluid and when hey do, it's dark and stinky..then use BG or some other "Universal" fluid
Etc...etc... Then complain about how much a POS their vehicle is.....

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 10:25 am

We have cut back on preventive parts replacement a little. In the past several years it seems as though replacement part quality has gone downhill - across the board. Many times the old part is better and will still last longer than the new part.

I will never replace a working thermostat.

For instance - I paid near double for an AC Delco sending unit for the TAhoe over a cheap made in China import. I got the AC Delco and installed it - Always double check that a part works before you install it - especially parts that require a lot of work - The Ac Delco fuel tank sending unit did not work and I found out is was made in china. If I am going to buy Made in China junk. I am going to buy cheap made in China junk.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 10:29 am

Lol...how many people think AC Delco is OE!
Delco is a REBOXER, they don't make JACK

GM had issues with their fuel level sending units anyway. Always though they should install a spare

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:16 am

I love high quality OEM parts and high quality parts in general if they are affordable as opposed to aftermarket parts available that are in some cases made in China and are of questionable quality. :roll:

I have learned that in most cases you can pay a little bit more for a part at a NAPA store and find that the part is of good or OEM quality. :wink:

If you shop around and do some research, you may find some reboxed OEM parts at one of the big three chains. This is especially true with some electrical parts.
As to some mechanical parts, it is hard to bet Autozone's lifetime warranty on some items like brake pads, suspension parts, etc... Buy one set of metallic or ceramic brake pads and if you ever wear them out, they will give you a replacement set free. I have already used this lifetime warranty on one of my Jeep window regulators I bought from them. They gave me another one with no hassle...
Bottom line, do the research, online or at a store, there are still some good quality parts out there if you take the time to look for them....
:google:

camo · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:06 pm

jrsavoie wrote:

camo wrote:

I have had mine for 5 years and 50k miles. Has done nothing to it besides maintenance and common wear items such as shocks, brakes, rotors, belts etc...
Here is what you need.
-Timing belt service every 100k or 8 years.
-GDE tune
-Be happy :JEEPIN:

-Enjoy the bitter experiences of people that can't keep up with maintenance and blame the libby.

That sounds like a lot of maintenance in 50,000 miles

Bought my 2005 libby early 2010 with 61k. Replaced shocks all around at 65k, pads and rotors at 70k, FL hub bearing went at 73k so I replace all bearings I could think off for absolute peace of mind; that included the rear ones and since you have to remove the rear axels to replace them I did change the differential bearings too, then refilled it with synthetic oil all by my self in one weekend warrior run and spend about $275 for parts, off course all ordered from the internet. One of the front 4x4 axle CV joints went out at 88k so again for full peace of mind I replaced both of them in about 3 hours for about $130 for both. Full timing belt job at 95k (belt, water pump, idlers, tensioner, and gaskets) along with serpentine belt and serpentine belt pulley bearings so I could enjoy a pure diesel clacking without any squeaks. Right now I am on my close to my fifth year of ownership and to 110k miles. All in all I have spend about $1500 in maintenance which is actually a tad lower that I have spend in other vehicles in the past in about the same time spam. The only updates I have made are silicones ACA hoses ($250), GDE tune ($400 with the scan tool), and BMW oil separator ($85)
I love my libby I think I can get some more 5 trouble free years out of it.
:JEEPIN:

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:19 pm

Tell me more about BMW separator ... You can PM me if you like, so we don't hyjack thread

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:29 pm

I think that's what he's talking about:

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11151705237/ES19562/

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:31 pm

Is this put inline with current CCV?

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:31 pm

ArmyChief wrote:

Tell me more about BMW separator ... You can PM me if you like, so we don't hyjack thread

Hijack or start a new thread. Inquiring minds want to know.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:34 pm

I want to know..I'm waiting

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:36 pm

ArmyChief wrote:

Is this put inline with current CCV?

Its the same principle as provent, but I think there is no filter, it's just the centrifugal movement of the vapors with oil that create the "condensation". I know for sure there were people here using it, don't remember who other than camo. So yea, it's inline with ccv, an in, an out and an oil drain.

Considering a CRD........

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