2006 liberty crd

walt007 · **Joined:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:45 am **Posts:** 4

Hi guys.
I have a problem and would appreciate any and all input.
So far, I installed a demand pump near the fuel tank and removed all factory "quick connects" I joined lines using rubber hoses.
I installed the Green diesel eco fix also the Sasquarch elbow mod.
Yesterday I installed the upgraded filter head.
guess what..... it's a cold day today (-6) it would start, run a bit, lots of white smoke and stall.
I go under the hood and pump plunger is soft, I pump it till its hard go in and attempt to start, same thing starts and stalls.
eventually it starts after air is expelled.
lift pump is working great as when I open nipple and turn ignition on a lot of fuel comes out.
I am baffled.
thanks for the replies:
After I installed the filter head I bled it using the lift pump and ran engine for 30 minutes
I have ordered a 3/8" in line check valve which I will install at the filter head

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 3:27 pm

I'm a Floridian..so this is unaware territory. However, based on my readings here..at -6 F, the glow plugs (especially the metal ones) can't effectively start these vehicles. MOST plug in over night

Are you sure its a fuel supply issue?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 4:14 pm

After installing the lift pump and new fuel manager head, ya gotta open the bleed and turn the lift pump on to expel any\all air in the new system - air compresses, fuel doesn't, so you would get a soft manual pump if not bled at first

Also, fuel turns to slush at -6*, difficult to pump, particularly so with a steel-cased external fuel pump - the oem plastic fuel tank and lines offer some additional protection over the previously-used steel tanks and lines - plugging the heater overnite may help, but that steel lift pump may cause some grief in sub-zero climes

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 4:32 pm

Any opinions on replacing the FFM with one out of a GM 6.5 Diesel?

I keep all that stuff on hand already

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 5:26 pm

I do also - you might have to deal with incompatible W-I-F and fuel heater electrics with the GM unit, benefit would be top-loading, but I'm was never impressed with that flimsy thermo-plastic screw-on cover-rim which seemed choose the absolute worst moments to split - I replaced the KJ's with the RAM Cummins fuel manager, primarily to get top-loading benefit, plus the electrics are same butcept for connectors

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 5:32 pm

gmctd wrote:

I replaced the KJ's with the RAM Cummins fuel manager, primarily to get top-loading benefit, plus the electrics are same butcept for connectors

GMctd,

Is this the same as the adapter that USED to be made for our current Fuel Head that allowed CAT filters or is this the same as replacing the fuel head with a RACOR?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 01, 2015 5:44 pm

No, it's the fuel manager made to CUMMINS spec by Fleet Guard - seen on all the 5.9L RAM's, it's a cast-aluminum cannister with top-loading filter cartridge - way-back-when installation can be seen below - this particular example was DCJ's latest attempt to ignore CARTER's explicit instructions to mount the lift pump back at the tank, by direct attachment to the filter cannister, o'ring-sealed coupling - those extra holes were done for a 'nuther member to see if the cannister with attached lift pump would fit between the engine and the power-brake booster - it did, but I didn't......................

This is top side-fill, bottom out: no air bubbles, ever - W-I-F drain is that yellow lever adjacent engine, rubber drain hose down and out

viewtopic.php?p=296126#p296126

walt007 · **Joined:** Sat Dec 13, 2014 7:45 am **Posts:** 4

gmctd wrote:

After installing the lift pump and new fuel manager head, ya gotta open the bleed and turn the lift pump on to expel any\all air in the new system - air compresses, fuel doesn't, so you would get a soft manual pump if not bled at first

Also, fuel turns to slush at -6*, difficult to pump, particularly so with a steel-cased external fuel pump - the oem plastic fuel tank and lines offer some additional protection over the previously-used steel tanks and lines - plugging the heater overnite may help, but that steel lift pump may cause some grief in sub-zero climes

Hi thanks all:
After I put in new filter head I bled it using lift pump and ran for 30 min.

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Fri Jan 02, 2015 2:54 pm

gmctd wrote:

No, it's the fuel manager made to CUMMINS spec by Fleet Guard - seen on all the 5.9L RAM's, it's a cast-aluminum cannister with top-loading filter cartridge - way-back-when installation can be seen below - this particular example was DCJ's latest attempt to ignore CARTER's explicit instructions to mount the lift pump back at the tank, by direct attachment to the filter cannister, o'ring-sealed coupling - those extra holes were done for a 'nuther member to see if the cannister with attached lift pump would fit between the engine and the power-brake booster - it did, but I didn't......................

This is top side-fill, bottom out: no air bubbles, ever - W-I-F drain is that yellow lever adjacent engine, rubber drain hose down and out

viewtopic.php?p=296126#p296126

I like the TOP fill Idea...do they make a 2 micron filter element?..is it still available?

jrsavoie · **Posted:** Fri Jan 02, 2015 3:28 pm

ArmyChief wrote:

gmctd wrote:

No, it's the fuel manager made to CUMMINS spec by Fleet Guard - seen on all the 5.9L RAM's, it's a cast-aluminum cannister with top-loading filter cartridge - way-back-when installation can be seen below - this particular example was DCJ's latest attempt to ignore CARTER's explicit instructions to mount the lift pump back at the tank, by direct attachment to the filter cannister, o'ring-sealed coupling - those extra holes were done for a 'nuther member to see if the cannister with attached lift pump would fit between the engine and the power-brake booster - it did, but I didn't......................

This is top side-fill, bottom out: no air bubbles, ever - W-I-F drain is that yellow lever adjacent engine, rubber drain hose down and out

viewtopic.php?p=296126#p296126

I like the TOP fill Idea...do they make a 2 micron filter element?..is it still available?

I am pretty sure they do make a 2 micron element for that housing but you might have to check different companies for a quality filter. I generally use Ac Delco, Amsoil, Mobile 1 or Baldwin for filters.

Maybe GMCTD will post some numbers for filter elements.

The filter housing - FFM - Fuel Filter Manager for the 1993 to 2000 6.5 GM's is also a top load and they definitely make a 2 micron filter for that housing. It is also a top load.

Most of the newer filters for the 6.5 diesel FFM Have a solid plastic top that screws on. Eliminating the cracked ring issue GMCTD referred to.

You will have to check different manufacturers for their micron rating. The standard Wix for the Dodge filter is rated at 7 micron, Baldwin PF7977 is still only 5 microns, so maybe a 2 micron filter for the Dodge housing is not available.

This is a mod I would like to do some day. But I want to find a 2 micron element first.

After more searching I found this: www.dieselbombers.com/5-9-liter-cr-dodg ... r-buy.html

Baldwin PF 7977 is nominal at 1-2 microns and absolute at 5 microns. Absolute is 98.7% efficiency and nominal is 50% efficiency.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 02, 2015 4:53 pm

walt007 wrote:

Hi guys.
I have a problem and would appreciate any and all input.
So far, I installed a demand pump near the fuel tank and removed all factory "quick connects" I joined lines using rubber hoses.
I installed the Green diesel eco fix also the Sasquarch elbow mod.
Yesterday I installed the upgraded filter head.
guess what..... it's a cold day today (-6) it would start, run a bit, lots of white smoke and stall.
I go under the hood and pump plunger is soft, I pump it till its hard go in and attempt to start, same thing starts and stalls.
eventually it starts after air is expelled.
lift pump is working great as when I open nipple and turn ignition on a lot of fuel comes out.
I am baffled.
thanks for the replies:
After I installed the filter head I bled it using the lift pump and ran engine for 30 minutes
I have ordered a 3/8" in line check valve which I will install at the filter head

No need of additional check-valve - lift pumps have built-in check valve, and ur newly-installed electric lift pump allows bleeding the system at any time, incl incidence of filter-replacement

Should be no problem, now that you know the sequence

Also, some auxilliary check-valves reduce lift pump efficiency

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 2:53 pm

Any clarification of available filters?
Part number of filter head unit?
Does it come with a compatible fuel temp sensor?

Thanks

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:24 pm

Unfortunately, no on the pn's
- the cannister-heads have the recommended DCJ filter part number on that black label (I use NAPA GOLD)
- they are FLEET GUARD units to DCJ design
- the two heads in the posted short-cut are from the '03^ RAM CRD versions, one with engine-mount LP, t'other with head-mount LP (DCJ's last desperate attempt to keep the LP in the engine bay, right where it don't belong!!!!!!!!)
- could go to MoPartsRUs for the head part numbers
- could go to FLEET GUARD for filter elements in various micron offerings
- could go to yer local bone-yard for suitable examples (as I did)
- could go to eBay for a 'nuther suitable example, as I did also

Fuel heater is 12vdc, self-regulating, powered by IGN switch - 12v 300w max, requires larger fuse than KJ version
Fuel temp sensor is part of the heater assembly
Connector is wide 3-way: power, common ground, sensor

viewtopic.php?p=296126#p296126

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:42 pm

gmctd wrote:

Fuel temp sensor is part of the heater assembly
Connector is wide 3-way: power, common ground, sensor

viewtopic.php?p=296126#p296126

Thanks sir..I was just curious if the fuel temp sensor had the same resistance and performance of the original

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:51 pm

Cannot exactly remember at this juncture - it's that Rip Van Winkle syndrome, don't you know - also seem to remember pulling the FTS from the KJ head and installing it into the RAM head, may be because I didn't feel like messing with the connectors, at the time, or didn't have the time: son #2's eagerness to get back to his side of town often cut short my quality time with his (at the time) KJ

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 5:54 pm

gmctd wrote:

also seem to remember pulling the FTS from the KJ head and installing it into the RAM head, may be because I didn't feel like messing with the connectors, at the time

So your thinking the size and thread should be adentical. I could find PT# for head and screw my FTS from my early built head?

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:13 pm

I'll need to have a look-see and get back with you on that

ArmyChief · **Posted:** Sun Jan 04, 2015 6:24 pm

gmctd wrote:

I'll need to have a look-see and get back with you on that

Thanks again !

Mine is working fine, and I have a second replacement fuel filter...so it will be 10-12 months before I need to do something..making my next year honey-do list

2006 liberty crd

Who is online