You may want to wait a few weeks till I get the special POD mount from Seth installed to see about the GlowShift 3-1. It will have the three main essentials. Boost, EGT & Trans Temp

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited - Nov '14
GDE Eco Tune - Nov '14
Sasquatch Motor Sports Intake Elbow Kit - Jan '15
TB / WP / SAMCO Hoses - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)
Redline Synthetics (Frt/Rear Differentials) - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)

All gage oems offer all measurement ranges in several different sizes, from 1-15/16" ^
- the GLOWSHIFT gages are standardly-sized at ~2-1/8"
- all oem offerings are available separately or in 2-3-4 gage packages
- separately purchased sets can be better in order to match each gage to each engine's parameters

A BOOST gage of 0-30psi or 0-60psi does not need to be electronic (some pulling tractors run up to 300psi and up!)
- BOOST pressure is too low to damage the instrument panel if the pressure line pops off or is damaged\cut
- they are accurate and have been used in 18-wheelers for decades
- normal KJ BOOST pressure is less than 20psi, even with ECM upgrades
- 30psi would be damaging
- 60psi is just for whore-stories in the local dirt-floor bar.....oops, sorry!...meant to say war-stories...............

An Exhaust Gas Temperature gage does not need to be electronic
- the electrical version functions on a probe that generates ~1.0volt, and the gage is designed to respond to this low voltage
- they are accurate and have been used in 18-wheelers for decades

The Rail Pressure gage must be electronic, because the 30,000psi range could cause mechanical damage to the instrument panel and the nut behind the wheel, with the additional hazard of fire by spraying raw Diesel fuel into the engine bay or\and passenger cabin
- these are fairly recent and the prices have not dropped, much

Same for all low-pressure Fuel Pressure gages: electronic
- absolutely would not want a ruptured tube full of pressurized fuel to spray into passenger cabin
- usually used in racing-type vehicles, but also in DODGE Cummins systems for Lift Pump pressure

Mechanical temperature gages are not as desirable because of the long copper tube between the bulb\sender in the engine coolant system in the engine bay to the mechanical gage in the instrument panel
- the soldered bulb\tube\gage assembly is filled with several different types liquid of and can leak
- the large sender must be pushed from the instrument-panel side thru the firewall to the engine-bay
- engine coolant temperature

Electrical low-temperature gages have resistive probe and 2-3-wire interconnecting harness requiring simple connection at gage and sender ends
- engine, transmission, BOOST temperature, etc

Mechanical low-pressure gages are connected usually by 1/8" nylon tubing, most difficult part is being pushed thru the firewall into passenger cabin
- BOOST

Mechanical and electrical gages are most always priced at less than 25% of the electronic versions, exception being EGT, and those prices have dropped due to the proliferation of passenger-type Diesel-fueled vehicles available to passenger-type vehicle enthusiasts needing to keep track of EGT's

So, available lower-cost options are multitudinous, exception being Rail Pressure and some EGT offerings, all available in white, black, green, blue, etc faces and several diameters - check'em out......................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Chief, just bought the same setup. Did you get yours installed? Where did you put the boost sensor and EGT sensor? I am using my temp input for oil. You have pics? My concern is metal shavings inside the valve cover.

Let us know

_________________
2005 CRD Limited
SEGR
WEEKS Kit (removed EGR, FCV),
Gen 2 Fuel Head
GDE Eco Tune
ARP studs
Etechno (7v) Glow Plugs
F37
Kap 193 thermostat
Carter Lift Pump (Modified wiring harness)
Fumoto (CRD-108)
Bypass oil filter (2 micron)
Samco
Provent
Sears P-1 Battery
Secondary 2 micron fuel filter

Was delayed installing due to Holidays and I must have sold my tap/die set when I left dealership. Just picked up a new set and will be installing Monday.

For the boost sensor, I had Seth @ Sasquatch weld a 1/8 NPT bung on to my intake elbow tube. He says that option will be availabel to all now when they order their elbow kits.

I will be posting an install post on Tuesday if all goes well

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited - Nov '14
GDE Eco Tune - Nov '14
Sasquatch Motor Sports Intake Elbow Kit - Jan '15
TB / WP / SAMCO Hoses - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)
Redline Synthetics (Frt/Rear Differentials) - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)

A threaded bung?

_________________
2005 CRD Limited
SEGR
WEEKS Kit (removed EGR, FCV),
Gen 2 Fuel Head
GDE Eco Tune
ARP studs
Etechno (7v) Glow Plugs
F37
Kap 193 thermostat
Carter Lift Pump (Modified wiring harness)
Fumoto (CRD-108)
Bypass oil filter (2 micron)
Samco
Provent
Sears P-1 Battery
Secondary 2 micron fuel filter

1/8" National Pipe Taper threads

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Yea, instead of drilling an tapping intake, I asked Seth to weld a 1/8 NPT bung on the intake elbow to mount pressure sensor.

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited - Nov '14
GDE Eco Tune - Nov '14
Sasquatch Motor Sports Intake Elbow Kit - Jan '15
TB / WP / SAMCO Hoses - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)
Redline Synthetics (Frt/Rear Differentials) - Dec '14 (93,000 miles)

I'm guessing we're never going to find out how the long-term usage panned out.

Anyone else have results that they want to post?
I'm looking to get the Lotek pillar mount, (http://www.gaugepods.com/jeep.html) so I was searching for info on the best gauge applications and installs as suggested by you guys who have blazed the trail in these things.

ETA: I like Seth's stuff, but I'm not wanting to use up my vent airflow with those plates.

_________________
'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

I installed a VDO 0-30 psi mechanical boost gauge.
Made my own bracket and mounted on the dash.
It works great and is very responsive.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

I have the cheap glowshift gauges and they seem to be working fine. What do you want to know exactly about gauges?

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

@ flash7210 (in general, for responding)
@ thermorex:



Basically - Who had luck with particular makes and types of gauges regarding accuracy and reliability (with no glitches), and who found particular data from gauges more or less important.
I'm thinking that of the types of info that'd be useful to me - in expected order of importance:

Oil pressure from a reliable sender/gauge package,
Turbo EGT temp and boost pressure, (the pressure sensor in either the manifold or as Seth fabbed up that induction elbow tap.)

Maybe a better coolant temperature gauge than the one stock in the dash,
Maybe an ATF temp gauge.

I'm open to suggestion.

I'm wondering about the possibility of somehow surgically implanting a real temp gauge in the stock instrument panel gauge pod sampling from a good sender.

In light of the suggestion about not putting the oil sender on the threaded hard line where it's subject to vibration, and the suggestion about maybe plumbing it with flexible line (Teflon line in flexible braided Russel stainless steel A-N line), and is there a way to plumb the oil pressure line into the turbo oil supply line?.

I've got the two-pod unit ordered from Lo-Tek (has anyone got an opinion on the beige color match?), and that's what I'm looking at putting the gauges into, so real estate is limited.

I know it's an old thread, but maybe some info is still worth propagating.... considering the tractors are going on 10 years old, and SOME of the info has got to interest the newer gasser jeep guys too.

As always, thanks for time and attention considering this stuff in forum.

_________________
'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

I have installed a fuel rail pressure gauge and a boost gauge.
For me, the fuel rail pressure gauge has been very important in helping me diagnose fuel system problems.
For a stock engine, a boost gauge isnt really necessary. But if you are running a custom ECM tune it can be helpful.

There is no limit to the number and types of gauges you can add.
My preference is for AutoMeter and VDO.

EGT is good for towing and performance tuning.
Trans temp is also good for towing.
The stock coolant temp gauge isnt horrible. But installing a different temp gauge would require adding another temp sensor somewhere. The ECM needs the stock sensor for engine managment.
Of course, an actual oil pressure gauge is always good to have. Not so sure that the turbo oil feel line is the best place for it though.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

What flash said I endorse 100%. Regarding oil pressure and temp, I have a write-up in the tech forum and I used a sandwich plate between the oil filter and engine oil socket, read that and you find the part #, where to buy it and pictures on how that looks like. I recommend the sandwich plate since it's way easier to install and use versus other options. There are also pics with where to mount the egt probe and boost sensor. If you want, you can get seth/weeks101 boost kit, it would be less hassle for you. If you can't find the thread let me know and I'll link it here. I find very important the following :

- egt - tells you when you can turn off your engine and if you do proper turbo cool down. Also, it lets you know when you are too heavy on throttle and helps you protect the engine/cyl head. I always turn off the engine when egt is less than 300F. Better safe than sorry.
- boost - tells you the health of the turbo, is directly correlated to your throttle and gives you an idea on your mileage. Less boost is less fuel, most of the time. It also gives you an idea of the status of the boost hoses and intercooler. Once you get used to it, you'll know when you have a leak.
- oil pressure and oil temperature : these are directly linked, as temperature influences the pressure due to oil becoming thinner when hot. Less pressure on higher temperature means more flow. More flow means better cooling and better lubrication. Pretty much you'll know when you can hammer it and when you have to take it easy, to let the oil warm up or cool down. It tells you if you have a problem. For example there are gauges with alarm, under a certain minimum or maximum they start making noises. This warns you for example if you have a leak of oil due to turbo bad seals/bearings.
-transmission - I recommend having an transmission oil pan probe, that would tell you exactly the temps in the transmission, versus an in-line probe. You'll know if you need to go with a bigger transmission cooler. For basic driving the stock one is ok. Optimum temps should not go over 180F.

Regarding lotek, get the colored one, the other one comes black and won't match the interior. Or you'll need to paint it.

FYI, weeks101 has a gauge pod for the vents that can accept a 3 in 1 gauge, like the ones glowshift has. This gauge pod will really save you a lot of real estate. You can have boost, egt and Trans Temp in one gauge. The 3 in 1 won't fit the lotek, it's too wide.

P. S. Pressure is the same on the oil turbo feed line as is in the sandwich adapter. The oil passages are all connected. If you have a leak, it will translate in an almost instantaneous pressure loss, either if you have the probe on the turbo line, or in the sandwich adapter.

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Here's the writeup I did on my gauge install. I have EGT/Boost in one gauge and oil pressure/tranny output temp in the other. I've been very happy with the gauges. The lower one started to glitch after 2 years and I sent it to Mcnally for repair, they turned it around for free in 2 days, no questions asked. It's a small company and they are very responsive.

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62144

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

CATCRD, Geordi and ranger1 I believe were the first to install gauges in crd, I may have missed somebody, but I'd read all you can about those for crd and make your mind up with whatever fits your boat...

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Thanks for the info/suggestions guys.
I appreciate benefiting from experience.

_________________
'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

Anybody ever find a THREE gauge pillar mount for their KJ? All I could find is a TWO gauge mount.

_________________
2005 CRD KJ
GDE engine/trans chips
Provent
Suncoast TC shift kit
40MPG

Lo-Tek offered to fab one up a few years ago if we showed enough interest and pre-sales.
(Sorry, I forgot who did all the heavy lifting trying to make it happen).

We failed to have the numbers at the time, I was one of the guys who bought a CRD later on, and I was late to that party.

_________________
'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.