so I've been looking for in tank lift pump and a new ffm

highironcrd · **Joined:** Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:52 pm **Posts:** 133

anybody want to suggest the best for 06 libby?? :juggle:

highironcrd · **Joined:** Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:52 pm **Posts:** 133

highironcrd wrote:

anybody want to suggest the best for 06 libby?? :juggle:

I've been thru the noob guide and still every things a lil chineez to me was hoping for layman's terms suggestions,like who sells the parts,.peoples experiences ect
:5SHOTS:

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 07, 2015 10:38 pm

Quote:

I'm on it like oprah on a cherry pie, but with all the options I'm a lil wondering ,whats right for my libby??wana pimp my fuel system??

Ok, let's start this new thread with specifics

Have you read thru this?
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385&hilit=It%27s+10pm

And this?
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80722

Should be pics and part numbers for all -

Note: verify that you do or do not have the new filter head - could save you some money, and seems like you said you had the head replaced last year, or so - this is the original fuel mismanager\leaker:

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:14 pm

I put a facet pump in the engine bay and upgrade my original fuel head to the Mopar gen2 and it has worked great for over 2 years.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:36 pm

ebbnflow wrote:

I put a facet pump in the engine bay and upgrade my original fuel head to the Mopar gen2 and it has worked great for over 2 years.

This is a good option - benefit: no need to drop the tank if\when replacement is necessary

My in-tank conversion was necessary because the li'l puffer was still under factory warranty, and I didn't need any hassle for son #2 if any minor miscellany needed addressing by DCJ
- major stuff was\is my responsibility, for now-obvious reasons
- I do not regret the increased labor required by that undertaking because it's a much nicer install, factory-pristine, but it may not be everyone's cup of tea

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:37 pm

gmctd wrote:

This is a good option - benefit: no need to drop the tank if\when replacement is necessary

Dropping tank is a pain and so is getting the fuel pump wire out from under the back seat.

I mounted it behind the battery and in front of the brake reservoir, so I only needed 2 feet of wire to get to relay panel in front of battery.

My primer bulb on the fuel head remains rock hard at all times since doing this. Before it was always squishy.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:54 pm

ebbnflow wrote:

gmctd wrote:

This is a good option - benefit: no need to drop the tank if\when replacement is necessary

Dropping tank is a pain and so is getting the fuel pump wire out from under the back seat.

I mounted it behind the battery and in front of the brake reservoir, so I only needed 2 feet of wire to get to relay panel in front of battery.

My primer bulb on the fuel head remains rock hard at all times since doing this. Before it was always squishy.

I did the same thing with a facet and installed the upgraded fuel filter.
But Im still getting the occasional engine stumbling and dying while driving. No codes.

The only thing thats left to fix are the connections back at the tank.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:20 pm

flash7210 wrote:

I did the same thing with a facet and installed the upgraded fuel filter.
But Im still getting the occasional engine stumbling and dying while driving. No codes.

The only thing thats left to fix are the connections back at the tank.

Check your filter for tightness. Mine acted up for the first time a few months ago. Stalled on wife while putting in reverse. I got 1/4 turn on filter and all has been well since.

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:24 pm

flash7210 wrote:

ebbnflow wrote:

gmctd wrote:

This is a good option - benefit: no need to drop the tank if\when replacement is necessary

Dropping tank is a pain and so is getting the fuel pump wire out from under the back seat.

I mounted it behind the battery and in front of the brake reservoir, so I only needed 2 feet of wire to get to relay panel in front of battery.

My primer bulb on the fuel head remains rock hard at all times since doing this. Before it was always squishy.

I did the same thing with a facet and installed the upgraded fuel filter.
But Im still getting the occasional engine stumbling and dying while driving. No codes.

The only thing thats left to fix are the connections back at the tank.

Positive pressure on the primer bulb seems to indicate as tho at least one of you two plumbed the FACET into the line B4 the filter head - what about the 'nuther one: B4 or after?

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:47 pm

Mine is plumbed before the filter.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 8:54 pm

ebbnflow wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

I did the same thing with a facet and installed the upgraded fuel filter.
But Im still getting the occasional engine stumbling and dying while driving. No codes.

The only thing thats left to fix are the connections back at the tank.

Check your filter for tightness. Mine acted up for the first time a few months ago. Stalled on wife while putting in reverse. I got 1/4 turn on filter and all has been well since.

Fuel filter is tight.
All connections to the upgraded fuel head are tight.
All connections to the facet pump are tight.
Primer pump is stiff.
No obvious leaks.
Plumbed before filter.
Using a clear pre-filter for the facet, it looks clean.

Even removed the facet, set fuel lines back to stock, just remove it as a possibility and it still occasionally randomly stumbles and dies. But immediately starts back up and runs.
BTW, this engine stumble and die is a fairly new occurance. Only within the last 3 months.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Thu Jan 08, 2015 11:34 pm

Does it die when you are coming to a stop shorty after starting a cold engine?

buddy357 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 4:33 am

Ebb, have you had the problem you described of the enging dying at stops? I was having that just before I left for Europe in January last year. Hoping to resolve it when I get home next month.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 7:35 am

ebbnflow wrote:

Does it die when you are coming to a stop shorty after starting a cold engine?

Nope.
The problem you describe is related to the transmission and fluid drainback.

When my engine dies, its when warmed up and cruising on the highway.
Or sometimes when accelerating from a stoplight.
Its totally random.
Might happen 3 times in one day. Might happen only once in a week of daily driving.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 12:49 pm

flash7210 wrote:

ebbnflow wrote:

Does it die when you are coming to a stop shorty after starting a cold engine?

Nope.
The problem you describe is related to the transmission and fluid drainback.

When my engine dies, its when warmed up and cruising on the highway.
Or sometimes when accelerating from a stoplight.
Its totally random.
Might happen 3 times in one day. Might happen only once in a week of daily driving.

Still seems like fuel delivery problems, same symptoms with\without FACET - need to ensure ur FACET has constant power and is continually pumping - it is flow-regulated
- FACET and similar pump to design pressure at design flow rate
- if little or no flow, the internal regulator reduces applied power such that the pump will slow down or stop
- will hold design pressure at stop until flow starts again
- will then resume pumping as flow demands

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 3:37 pm

gmctd wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

ebbnflow wrote:

Does it die when you are coming to a stop shorty after starting a cold engine?

Nope.
The problem you describe is related to the transmission and fluid drainback.

When my engine dies, its when warmed up and cruising on the highway.
Or sometimes when accelerating from a stoplight.
Its totally random.
Might happen 3 times in one day. Might happen only once in a week of daily driving.

Still seems like fuel delivery problems, same symptoms with\without FACET - need to ensure ur FACET has constant power and is continually pumping - it is flow-regulated
- FACET and similar pump to design pressure at design flow rate
- if little or no flow, the internal regulator reduces applied power such that the pump will slow down or stop
- will hold design pressure at stop until flow starts again
- will then resume pumping as flow demands

Absolutely its a fuel delivery problem.
Everytime it would stall i would pop the hood and check the hand primer (firm) and make sure the facet was running (it was). And anyway, the facet is supposed to be flow-through when failed.
Removal of the facet only confirmed that it was not the cause of the problem.

It seems like the fuel line connections back at the tank would be the likely culprit.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 5:53 pm

Logically, fail with or without the FACET could also prove that the FACET is stopping, flow-thru or not

However, make sure the hose-clamp on the outlet hose to the CP3 is tite, or\and the hose-end over the outlet barb is not split B4 you drop the tank

thermorex · **Posted:** Fri Jan 09, 2015 6:09 pm

Flash, so your engine just dies without entering limp mode? I had previously an issue that apparently was random, and luckily I found out that injector #2 plug was not properly seated due to the dust orange rubber being swollen. I removed it and I had no issues ever since. This did threw the engine in limp mode. Not sure if that's your problem but I thought to let you know.

so I've been looking for in tank lift pump and a new ffm

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