Green Diesel Engineering has a great write up on the passenger side mount. Not so for the driver's side, that I could find.

First, if you get some kind of rattle which is barely perceptable to the ear it's probably the mount. Mine was worst in reverse, and I replaced the passenger but the noise was still there. Went away as I drove. Put your CRD into 4Lo and you will hear it REAL good! Not really a metallic rattle, but definitely there. Mechanic specific to CRD's said mounts were ok . At 70k just replace them, took maybe 2 hrs a piece at a leisurely pace. Buy both of the driver style (no heat shield).

When doing passenger side, take mount out and place in vice with mount through, and shield catching on vice jaws. Whack the stud coming out the top of the mount and that will drop the mount stud through the shield. Turn shield upside down and use a bolt or something to shape "fingers" on shield to face inside the bowl of the mount. Simply put the new mount in the vice and close jaws on the mount GENTLY, and tap the shield onto the new mount. Takes 5 min.

Best way to do the mounts is to run on ramps and use a floor jack on the engine cross member to slightly lift the suspension (tires still touch the ramps, but extend the suspension to just before the tires depart the ramp. This gives you room. Unbolt the mount top and bottom (18mm deep well.) Hold the floor jack there and use a bottle jack under 4x6's (or 2x4's, and a battery!) and jack the corresponding corner of the engine up. I never had to remove the fan shroud or fan.

Since the passenger side is well covered and you should do this first for experience, we will not cover it.

For the Driver's side:
Drive up on ramps. On the driver's side, take out the battery and battery tray (three nuts on tray). Remove intercooler to engine hose (CAC?) I have since been informed that a person does not have to remove the battery tray or CAC hose, you just need some extensions and joints. Undo the top nut on the mount. Jack up the vehicle as described above using the floor jack. Use jackstands! Underneath the engine do yourself a favor and get some ratcheting swivel head wrenches (Photo A) Place the ratchet head on the lower nut and swivel to allow swing. Use a bar to pry against the motor mount bracket with one end, and the other in the open end of the wrench and turn the nut loose (Photo B). After a while you will be able to just use your ratcheting wrench to remove the nut. Use the bottle jack arrangement described above (Photo C) to gain clearance on the motor mount and once the mount stud will push out through the bottom mount bracket(up), go to the top and finagle it out. Place in new one and go backwards sentence by sentence to put back together.

Creepers are good.
Seriously buy some swivel ratcheting wrenches, I use mine all the time.
All motor mounts look good, even ones that have gone bad. Bad ones rattle, good ones do not. Not yet...

Photo A


Photo B
Sorry it's blurry, I was kinda in a hurry. It's 30F some degrees.


Photo C
Laying on my back under engine compartment, right behind the front wheel. Aluminum looking thing on right is the motor, mount looks good..... Ratcheting wrench levered with pry bar on motor mount bracket (rusty thing)

I do not recall removing any thing from any side of the engine when I did the 2 mounts on 2 jeeps. Just drop in an exstension with a socket and a swivel to take out the top nuts, put it on ramps, or jack, remove the bottom nuts, jack up the engine wiggle the oil mounts out, new ones in, and put the nuts back on.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

There is also a write up in the tech forum that I wrote a wile ago, and all I used were long extension deep and regular socket and some ujoint/flex connection.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I'll update the post. I did the mount while I was doing the struts, so I had the batt and CAC hose off and figured a person had to.

Thanks for the write up, and taking the time to take photos.
Interesting alternate use for a Sears P1

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TWO Identical 2005 Liberty Sport CRDS
#1 CRD, 174,000 miles. Eco tune, Samco hoses. Mobil1 0-40w used since day one
#2 CRD 143,000 miles. Bought used (unknown history) with 100,000 miles. Samco hoses.
Eco tune, new rockers, and 5 volt glow plugs installed at 124,000 miles

I think, for the sake of having more options and suggestions, you should copy paste your first post to the Crd tech topic about motor mounts, as people would choose what fits better their needs. It is honestly a good write up in my opinion and it would make sense, also in my opinion, to be in the same place with the other write up.

viewtopic.php?t=77252

More choices is always better. Or, if you prefer, create another thread with your method in Crd tech forum, but Crd tech forum is probably the best spot to add this type of walkthroughs.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.