This has started 2 years ago. In 2013 I lost about 4 cups of coolant over the year. I found in February 2014 that the coolant bottle cap gaskets were dry rotted. I replaced the cap and the coolant loss stopped. Then I started to notice the coolant bottle turning a little black above the coolant level. Today I was going to check to see if the cooling system was building pressure right after starting. I decided to check it just before I started and it still had pressure from when I got to work a 8:00. This was 2:30 in the afternoon. No pressure was built after 30 seconds after starting. If this is a head gaskets i would like to get it fixed before camping season starts and the heavy towing.

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long live the diesel
Greendieselengineering
Full torque Eco-tune
0w40 oil
Mostly stock
Diesel's are towing machines

After 6 and a 1/2 hours in Michigan it must have been cooled totally down? Do you notice any coolant in the overflow bottle, right of the radiator cap? Any puddles underneath and coolant leaking down the header pipe?

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I have not seen any amount of coolant in the overflow and was not aware of the over flow tank until Keith at Green Diesel showed me it in October. No external leaks have been found yet, or coolant puddles. And yes the jeep was well cooled here in Michigan.[WINKING FACE]

_________________
long live the diesel
Greendieselengineering
Full torque Eco-tune
0w40 oil
Mostly stock
Diesel's are towing machines

Has anyone seen a head gasket go, but only loose compression under high load and no coolant loss?

_________________
long live the diesel
Greendieselengineering
Full torque Eco-tune
0w40 oil
Mostly stock
Diesel's are towing machines

I only had one failure, but that compression gas has to go past the cooling galleries on the way out in many cases. Some have had a hairline crack in the block as well.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

Ok, I have convinced my self to spend the money to do the head gasket, before I blow-it up towing this summer. What is everyone best practice for what to replace, and where to get the best pricing? I am doing the ARP studs, is the 130 for the inside and 125 for the outside studs still the best bet? I have arleady done the timing belt, tensioners, and water pump last year with a 106,000 miles. It has 127,000 miles now.
Side question, I was talking to my Jeep dealer and his catalog show that there is a change in the rocker arms and they my be a slight bit different in height? Anyone run it to this before. I was only checking on this if needed.

_________________
long live the diesel
Greendieselengineering
Full torque Eco-tune
0w40 oil
Mostly stock
Diesel's are towing machines

Best advice to date is 130/120-125 inside/outside. That seems to work.

LMW

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel