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 Post subject: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:16 am 
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I replaced my UBJ last night because a had a terrible noise when turning and going over bumps. Turns out I wasted $40 and the noise is still there. I popped the tie rod off and it moves freely so I know it isn't that either. I'm guessing its a bushing somewhere but it does it when I turn (most noticible when I turn the steering wheel to the left) and when the suspension flexes. It is a very loud creeking noise from the driver's side. Anyone have any ideas? I guess my next step is to pull the front sway bar and see if the noise goes away.

So as far as my UCA goes, when I popped it off the knuckle it was very tight within the pockets and I could barely move it up and down. Is this normal or should the UCA hinge freely when detached from the knuckle? Are the bolts too tight in the engine bay? I also noticed that when the suspension is at full droop the boot slides off the ball joint. Is this normal and how bad is it? I really wish there was a way to prevent my UCAs from hitting the springs. I'll upload a picture to show what I am talking about.

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:23 am 
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Here's a pic of the ball joint boot sliding off and UCA hitting the spring.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 10:36 am 
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There is a way to prevent the spring from hitting. 1. is lower the lift, 2. go to coilovers, and 3. take some heater hose and put on that spring where it contacts and it will act as a bump stop.

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:12 am 
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Grinding noises whe turning at low speed over bumps can be the electronic stability control kicking in. This only happens on lifted KK's. If you have a certain intersection on the street where you know you are always getting the noise, keep an eye on your traction control light on the dash to see if it flashes on temporarily when making the turn. You could next test the idea by using the ESC OFF button before making the turn, to see if the noise disappears.

If it is a banging noise you are getting, instead of a grinding noise, you can diregard what I wrote above.

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 11:49 am 
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Yes like mentioned above, you have it too high in front for one, well for two since that is causing the spring / UCA contact and also the boot coming off of the UBJ.
Drop it down a half inch and it'll be fine, no other remedy
Could even be the noise you hear when turning, more than likely is

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2015 2:59 pm 
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My 3.5" lift has the same issue with the uca hitting the springs. Only on big bumps and or when I hit bumps under heavy acceleration. The ball joint doesn't do that though...

As for the noise, is it a grinding noise? Like when tcs kicks in. As Lauren said its common to hear that after lifting and when making turns. Mine does it a lot, almost every day pulling out of my driveway. If it's prolonged the light with pop up like Lauren mentioned, but if it's for less than 5-10sec it won't light up.

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:13 am 
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I'm well aware of the stability control grinding noise, and although that does happen, that's not what I'm talking about. It's a creaking/squeaking/groaning noise. I'm pretty sure its a bushing.

For the spring contact I'm going to try to fabricate some sort of bump stop in the A-arm pockets. Eventually I'm going to upgrade to JBA coilovers.

My biggest question though is are the a-arms supposed to move freely up and down by hand when disconnected from the knuckle. Can anyone answer this? I had to really force them to move them out of the knuckle when I replaced the UBJ

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 10:29 am 
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Limiting straps could help the uca contact. As for how tight they are, Tom would know best. I haven't installed or had mine apart enough to know.

Start spraying bushings with wd-40. Do one at a time and take it for a ride. When it stops you'll know which it is.

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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:15 pm 
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huntb wrote:
I'm well aware of the stability control grinding noise, and although that does happen, that's not what I'm talking about. It's a creaking/squeaking/groaning noise. I'm pretty sure its a bushing.

For the spring contact I'm going to try to fabricate some sort of bump stop in the A-arm pockets. Eventually I'm going to upgrade to JBA coilovers.

My biggest question though is are the a-arms supposed to move freely up and down by hand when disconnected from the knuckle. Can anyone answer this? I had to really force them to move them out of the knuckle when I replaced the UBJ


Did you tighten the UCA with full weight on or hanging in the air. They should feel snug but not super tight if that make sense

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03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject: Re: Upper Control Arm Questions
PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2015 12:29 pm 
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tommudd wrote:
huntb wrote:
I'm well aware of the stability control grinding noise, and although that does happen, that's not what I'm talking about. It's a creaking/squeaking/groaning noise. I'm pretty sure its a bushing.

For the spring contact I'm going to try to fabricate some sort of bump stop in the A-arm pockets. Eventually I'm going to upgrade to JBA coilovers.

My biggest question though is are the a-arms supposed to move freely up and down by hand when disconnected from the knuckle. Can anyone answer this? I had to really force them to move them out of the knuckle when I replaced the UBJ


Did you tighten the UCA with full weight on or hanging in the air. They should feel snug but not super tight if that make sense


Yes, I tighted them mostly in the air but torqued them when I dropped it down. I couldn't get my torque wrench on the rear one though. Also, they're not so tight that I can't move them but 'snug' is a very realative term. Imagine turning your steering wheel when the vehicle is off. That is about the kind of force I needed to move them up or down.

Edit: I've been running like this for two years now without any issues, I'm just wondering this for peace of mind. I would really hate to pull those b@stards off and put them on again

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