head gasket repair- now its my turn

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2015 7:40 pm

So i got my engine tore down today and the head is a the machine shop to be checked for warping and cracks.
Here are some of my observations:
1. The T belt tensioner was way out of adjustment. The T belt didnt seem loose however.
2. Im not exactly sure but both cams seemed to be exactly one tooth off. This is going off the timing marks that i made when i did the T belt last time. But because my crank mark was no longer visible i cant be sure of it.
3. I used the cheap timing tool set from ebay. I am not impressed with it. The cam locking pins didnt seem to hold cams well enough. With pins tightly in place the cams would still move, at least one tooth on the sprocket. Also, the flywheel lock pin was useless and never fully engaged the flex plate. I used the 6mm allen key instead.
4. I also used the Gates type cam sproket holding tool. It was just ok.
5. Trans dipstick tube was broken almost all the way through. This was probably the source of the metallic rattling sound that i thought was coming from the exhaust.
6. Turbo had a small leak at the oil supply line.
7. Some of the head bolts were really tight. Rounded the head off on one of the bolts next to the firewall. Found a extractor kit a Discount Auto Parts. It worked great although i dont think i will ever be able to get the extracted bolt out of the extractor socket.
8. I thought that #2 cyl was the only one sucking water but all four cylinders showed signs of water ingestion. No evidence of water in the oil however.

9. After 160,000 miles, all 16 rocker arms and lash adjusters were still in good shape. All rollers moved smoothly and no abnormal wear or hammering of the valve stem.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2015 8:00 pm

Question:
How much can be shaved off the head to make it flat again?

Another observation:
Each cylinder, in the block and the head, has four cooling passages. But the head gasket blocks at least one of those passages. Why is that?

Head gasket, side facing head, #1 cylinder at bottom.

Side facing block, #1 cyl at bottom.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 02, 2015 8:54 pm

Some will say the head is too thin to machine, however I had mine shaved a couple thousandths to make the surface perfect. 8 months and 20,000 miles and all is still perfect.

amslube · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2015 2:50 pm

Service manual gives this specification for head thickness:

The minimum cylinder head thickness is 89.95mm
(3.541 in.).

flman · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2015 3:26 pm

I agree, get it shaved.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 3:05 pm

Talked to the machine shop today.
Everything is looking pretty good so far.
No cracks and the head surface was only out 2-3 thousandths of an inch.

flman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:53 pm

flash7210 wrote:

Talked to the machine shop today.
Everything is looking pretty good so far.
No cracks and the head surface was only out 2-3 thousandths of an inch.

I guess you are still in the ok ball park per FSM.

Quote:

The maximum allowed warpage is 0.1mm (0.004 in.).

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 10, 2015 2:39 am

I'm right here with you on this. I just dropped a head a the shop today. I hope I'm as lucky. I think I'll opt for perfectly flat as well as it's only about $60 to mill it here.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2015 9:21 am

With that small amount, you are MUCH better off NOT milling it. (Ask GDE.)

DOC

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2015 6:06 pm

Update.

It's slowly coming back together.
Commitments to family and work have been slowing me down.

Head gasket is in. I sprayed it with Mopar gasket spray. (Red sticky stuff)
ARP studs in.
Head on and torqued down.
Belt is on, sprockets torqued, tension set and everything in time.

I do not recommend using the cheap camshaft pin set from eBay. It did not give me the assurance I needed locking the cams in place.
The Gates sprocket holding tool worked ok.
But in the end I was able to make it all work.

Next step is to connect all the wiring and hoses and start it up.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2015 10:17 pm

I just want to put it out there, it's very important before instaling injectors . must clean or re-cut seats with cutter tool, i have one from princessauto .this will ensure 100% no carbon leak pass copper washer and injector body , my #4 injector seat was pitted this tool worked well.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:46 am

rankom wrote:

I just want to put it out there, it's very important before instaling injectors . must clean or re-cut seats with cutter tool, i have one from princessauto .this will ensure 100% no carbon leak pass copper washer and injector body , my #4 injector seat was pitted this tool worked well.

Can't find it on the web site. Can you be more specific.... part number and actual name of this tool would help.

rankom · **Posted:** Thu Apr 02, 2015 7:35 pm

of course tool brand is power fist [china] was available princess auto in canada, you need this kit and cutting bit size 17x19mm , apply some white grease and gently spin this tool clockwise only with very little pressure keep rotating till you see clean and smooth ,flat shiny area , [copper washer will seal well and carbon will not pass upward] do not force this tool downward . only a little pressure needed , you can find this tool on amazon.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2015 10:03 pm

My engine is finally running again. Runs good too.
But it has an exhaust leak.
Somewhere around the turbo area.

Will tackle that tomorrow.

head gasket repair- now its my turn

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