My Serpentine Belt Tensioner shakes real bad and squeals at idle. So where do I get a new one Id Parts is $159. That sounds like a lot. Is that the best one going. I just turned 195k miles, and looking at a lot of maintenance--timing belt kit($399) thermostat ($159-$450) rear diff fluid, Coolant, trans fluid ($100 at least) intercooler hoses, Is this really going to be worth it? And I still have to put it all in. I am glad I just made my last payment.

Robert

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2006 Liberty CRD -- Spare tire replaced with Veg tank, semi filter for veg, FPHE, Electric common rail line heater, fill vegetable oil tank every 3 days. ORM, EHM comes out in front of the passenger rear tire. Wife has new job and 20 mile round trip to work. I borrow her Jeep a lot and live in South Florida.

Shaking is usually caused by a bad alternator decoupler pulley. If it's squealing because of a bad idler pulley be advised that the tensioner idler pulley can be replaced as it's identical to the 2 serpentine belt idler pulleys in size.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Replace the alternator decoupler pulley first. It is the cause of the tensioner jumping around. There's a special tool to accomplish this.

Many of us have opted to replace the alternator which comes with the decoupler pulley already attached, instead of replacing the alternator decoupler pulley. It's easier and cheaper to do than to replace the decoupler pulley attached to the alternator.

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-start ... ing=search

Alternator Part Number: 15457

You probably wont believe me, but if you instead replace the tensioner. the problem will not go away.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

If you have over 100K and you have been running for a while with the problem you posted about, I would order a new tensioner and belt because you will need them fairly soon, even if you take care of the real problem that is causing you belt to jump (almost always decoupler, as you have been told).

Just make sure you do NOT get a Crown brand tensioner.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

I changed the alternator with a new lifetime warranty one 16 months ago and then again last month. I have 196k miles. A month ago the tensioner looked like it might not be working right after loosing two decouplers.
Are you saying I can order an idle pulley and put it on the alternator to replace the clutched version it is just hard to do. What if I take a new idler pulley and the alternator to the alternator repair shop and have them just change the pulley for me and I will put it back in. At the same time I will change the tensioner.
I should just do the timing belt at the same time also. Even if it is 3-4k miles early.

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2006 Liberty CRD -- Spare tire replaced with Veg tank, semi filter for veg, FPHE, Electric common rail line heater, fill vegetable oil tank every 3 days. ORM, EHM comes out in front of the passenger rear tire. Wife has new job and 20 mile round trip to work. I borrow her Jeep a lot and live in South Florida.

My bad re. typo, now fixed, in my original response.

Tensioner shaking is usually caused by a bad alternator decoupler pulley and can be fixed by a new alternator decoupler pulley or a new alternator. However long term shaking can damage the tensioner housing and/or spring in which case the tensioner needs to be replaced.

Tensioner squealing is likely a bad tensioner idler pulley bearing in which case the pulley can be replaced. The tensioner idler pulley is the same size as the 2 serpentine idler pulleys so replacement is easy.

No you cannot replace the alternator decoupler pulley with an idler pulley.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

If you take your alternator to a repair shop they will install the correct decoupler. It's a 5 min job with the correct tools. The decoupler is specific to the application, you can't just use any.

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Share your ideas freely at https://www.facebook.com/groups/libertydiesels/

Or you can buy this, if you prefer doing it yourself -68009879AB alternator decoupler pulley
Litens updated (PN 920834 available from Advanced Auto at $78) that is internally greased.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I ordered parts for my 200k mile tune up. I ordered a new belt tensioner, Timing Belt kit, fuel filter, arp head bolts, transmission filter and fluid...plus other stuff. Total bill was $1400 in parts, I had to get a loan--next up I am going to have to put them in the car.

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2006 Liberty CRD -- Spare tire replaced with Veg tank, semi filter for veg, FPHE, Electric common rail line heater, fill vegetable oil tank every 3 days. ORM, EHM comes out in front of the passenger rear tire. Wife has new job and 20 mile round trip to work. I borrow her Jeep a lot and live in South Florida.