2006 jeep Liberty CRD starting issues....help needed.

tihetal · **Joined:** Wed May 06, 2015 12:35 am **Posts:** 4

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I have a 2006 jeep liberty crd with 115k on it. Last week my girlfriend (it is her vehicle) was going to drive to town the jeep blew a hole in the CAC hose going from the intercooler to the intake. She turned around and called me. I, not understanding why she was losing boost, made the mistake of telling her to unhook the battery for a minute to clear the computer. Then we misdiagnosed the original problem as being the egr valve because it would run better when the Mass Air Flow sensor was disconnected. So we then dug into it and replaced the egr....not the problem obviously. Lesson learned. Anyway, after she connected the battery back up but BEFORE we replaced the egr the jeep went to engaging the starter for about a second only. then shutting down. We did get it to run a few different times after that however it has since become worse and now it just clicks.

We have had the battery tested, and also tried a new battery, had the starter tested, jumped 30 and 87 under the starter relay and we do get the starter to engage indefinitely but even with the ignition on, it will not fire. When we replaced the egr we also replaced the fuel filter. We have purged the air out of that system as far as we can tell (pumping the air out through the zerk on the side of the filter housing). All battery terminals and leads have been cleaned. Also we are only getting 9.7 volts when hooking a voltmeter up to the starter relay fuse leads. We have read that this indicates a problem with the ignition switch or a breakable lever in the steering column. We are not blowing any fuses and the system does not throw any codes....any ideas here??? Thank you in advance.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed May 06, 2015 2:51 am

tihetal wrote:

http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/noobguide.jpg

I have a 2006 jeep liberty crd with 115k on it. Last week my girlfriend (it is her vehicle) was going to drive to town the jeep blew a hole in the CAC hose going from the intercooler to the intake. She turned around and called me. I, not understanding why she was losing boost, made the mistake of telling her to unhook the battery for a minute to clear the computer. Then we misdiagnosed the original problem as being the egr valve because it would run better when the Mass Air Flow sensor was disconnected. So we then dug into it and replaced the egr....not the problem obviously. Lesson learned. Anyway, after she connected the battery back up but BEFORE we replaced the egr the jeep went to engaging the starter for about a second only. then shutting down. We did get it to run a few different times after that however it has since become worse and now it just clicks.

We have had the battery tested, and also tried a new battery, had the starter tested, jumped 30 and 87 under the starter relay and we do get the starter to engage indefinitely but even with the ignition on, it will not fire. When we replaced the egr we also replaced the fuel filter. We have purged the air out of that system as far as we can tell (pumping the air out through the zerk on the side of the filter housing). All battery terminals and leads have been cleaned. Also we are only getting 9.7 volts when hooking a voltmeter up to the starter relay fuse leads. We have read that this indicates a problem with the ignition switch or a breakable lever in the steering column. We are not blowing any fuses and the system does not throw any codes....any ideas here??? Thank you in advance.

Download your '06 FSM here:
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

That relay fuse is connected directly to the battery, so it should read min +12.6v, same as reading directly across the battery terminals - any voltage checks should be referenced directly to the negative battery terminal

Sounds sorta like the security system is not recognizing the ign key, which would prevent starting when the ECM doesn't pick up the Auto Shutdown Relay

Did you remove any of the connectors at the rear of the engine when replacing the EGR?

tihetal · **Joined:** Wed May 06, 2015 12:35 am **Posts:** 4

Thank you for the reply--

The only connectors we removed were the connectors to the EGR, the alternator, the fuse box and the connectors to the fuel filter. we did that in order to get access to the EGR. This particular problem started before we took anything off the vehicle however. Also you reference the key not being recognized. We don't think this vehicle has the skis (maybe the wrong acronym) system. The key fobs do have the lock and unlock buttons however. We are going to try to jumper pins 87 and 30 on the ASD to see if that will allow a start. One post that we read pointed us to the switch in the steering column as the culprit due to the low voltage at the starter relay fuse. It would be quite a coincidence if that part went bad at the exact same time that she unhooked the battery. Not saying it could not happen but still I would think it unlikely.

So are you saying that we should have had the negative touching the negative battery terminal and positive in the fuse pin? I just put the pins of the tester directly on the fuses pins and then actuated the key to the start position. Thanks again.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed May 06, 2015 12:42 pm

Correct - negative DVM lead on the negative battery post
- you were reading a series in-line voltage across the fuse, which appears to be blown or you would have read 0v, as the fuse is normally a direct short
- both terminals on the fuse should read identical battery voltage if you take the reading with the negative lead on the negative battery post

tihetal · **Joined:** Wed May 06, 2015 12:35 am **Posts:** 4

Ok well I had the fuse out and the probes in the fuse terminals......I will try it the other way.

tihetal · **Joined:** Wed May 06, 2015 12:35 am **Posts:** 4

ok, we have jumped pins 30 and 87 under the ASD relay and still have the same issue when you turn the key....Just a click now. we are going to dig into the steering column and see if the problematic ignition switch (the one with the lever) is broken.

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 4:34 pm

I ve got exactly the same problem with my crd1. Put in new samco hose, started, ran for 1 sec. Shut down. Not a security issue. Disconnected battery, checked key, have not shorted 30 and 87 yet. Have to figure out which is which in socket. Ran fine. Got me at the moment!

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 09, 2015 5:25 pm

Running for one second and turning off IS a security key issue. That means that the computer did not get the right code from the key, OR that it received no code at all.

A potential source of this problem is the antenna loop (really just a wire attached to a sticker) that hides behind the steering column around the keyswitch. If that wire isn't properly positioned, then the computer won't receive the key code.

Since the problem first appeared with the computer being unplugged from power for a little bit, my first thought would be to reset everything again. Unplug the battery negative, then go into the driver's seat and press the brake pedal. This should drain the residual power in the system.
Now, leave it alone for at least 30 minutes so the airbag computers have a chance to de-power too.

With the power off, this is a good time to use the "continuity tester" or ohm gauge on your volt meter to touch the back of both sides of each fuse - good continuity or low resistance is a good fuse. Replace any bad fuses, obviously.

After that, reconnect the battery, stop messing with any of the fuses unless you find one blown, and put the key in the ignition. Turn it to the ON position, but do not start. Just let it sit there a few seconds, while you look at where that single red LED is in the dashboard - IF that light stays on, then you did not receive the key code. If it goes off like the rest of the dash just did, then the engine should start and run.

The Scott McLean · **Joined:** Tue Feb 15, 2011 9:19 pm **Posts:** 43

Does the security light, on the dash flash? Or is it solid on? This will tell you if it is the security module shutting you down. The light is a solid dot next to the fuel gauge. Should come on, when the key is turned on then go off, and stay off. You don't even have go crank the engine, just to the on position.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2015 2:01 pm

The Scott McLean wrote:

Does the security light, on the dash flash? Or is it solid on? This will tell you if it is the security module shutting you down. The light is a solid dot next to the fuel gauge. Should come on, when the key is turned on then go off, and stay off. You don't even have go crank the engine, just to the on position.

Thats the one I was referring to. Thanks, I couldn't remember where the light was actually located on the cluster. It should behave exactly as you describe here.

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 9:39 pm

Ok,
After doing a few of the standard issues, and I remind u that I had no codes. I pulled out my spare fuel filter, reached in to twist off the filter and it was not tight I got a half turn to tighten.
Gave it 20 pumps and after a minute of cranking it lite off.
A few months ago I borrowed the filter for crd2 and put a new one on crd1. Must not have properly tightened. Generally there is a kiss solution. U

2006 jeep Liberty CRD starting issues....help needed.

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