Replaced, Timing belt, Head Gasket & Installed Arp Studs

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun May 10, 2015 6:19 pm

First: a big shout out to RixRam.

Second: What a heck of job this was..... it took 40 hours within two weekends, with myself on wrenches and "RixRam" who is a home mechanic / engineer, CRD owner and a LostKJS member, directing the whole operation.

RixRam ---- "Rick" is more than familiar with how the Jeep Liberty CRD engine works and was meticulous with performing the repair.

With his help, the engine was back together without a hitch and now runs like a precision Swiss clock.

If you are in the Tri-State area of Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut and need the same work done to your CRD, then send him a message. He has all 4 of the OEM Miller suitcases, full of the tools specifically made for the CRD. Contact him to discuss his availability and fee.

This is not his main job, but one of his many hobbies.

My CRD runs phenomenally better than before.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue May 12, 2015 12:09 am

Glad to hear it Raf - You've had more than your share of issues with your CRDs too. I hope it keeps running well for you.

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Thu May 14, 2015 10:00 pm

Did u remove the egr system while u were at it?

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu May 14, 2015 10:30 pm

No, I didn't plan on it at that time. I want to keep it stock until the Chrysler extended warranty runs out. I have 84,000 miles on the clock and a 100,000 mile warranty or 9 months which ever comes first.

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Fri May 15, 2015 10:26 pm

I removed on crd2 and put in the weeks mod. A bit of work, no real performance difference in my two crds. On the other hand, less stuff on the engine, which I personnaly prefer. Again, my opinion, less stuff less failure risk, easier access. I m retired and have the time and my own shop so I m not your average owner.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 15, 2015 11:19 pm

Very few people that have these CRDs are what you would consider the "average owner", especially if they are active here. These are the most unique vehicles running around, but that is both a blessing and a curse at times.

Anyone that wants something to get them from point A to point B... They shouldn't buy a Jeep at all. This isn't basic transportation, it is always an adventure.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sat May 16, 2015 9:56 am

geordi wrote:

Very few people that have these CRDs are what you would consider the "average owner", especially if they are active here. These are the most unique vehicles running around, but that is both a blessing and a curse at times.

Anyone that wants something to get them from point A to point B... They shouldn't buy a Jeep at all. This isn't basic transportation, it is always an adventure.

Geordi, I don't necessarily agree with you, I mean that ALL Jeeps are bad vehicles. My 4.0 Cherokee for example is a very reliable car, and side some all known electrical issues (nothing that can stop from operating it), that car is very reliable. A good reason for not buying a jeep would be if you just need a car for groceries, or as a city person, to go back and forth from work-home. And the reason is fuel efficiency and comfort, but the newer Jeeps, as I can't talk about reliability, they are in pair with industry standard regarding mileage. The main bad thing about Jeeps is Chrysler owning the brand...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat May 16, 2015 11:35 am

geordi wrote:

Very few people that have these CRDs are what you would consider the "average owner", especially if they are active here. These are the most unique vehicles running around, but that is both a blessing and a curse at times.
Anyone that wants something to get them from point A to point B... They shouldn't buy a Jeep at all. This isn't basic transportation, it is always an adventure.

Amen!!!

I must agree with Geordi; a Jeep Liberty CRD is not for the average vehicle owner. A Jeep LIberty CRD requires a person willing to learn about all the aspects of this unique vehicle and be willing to perform your own repairs, upgrades, and maintenance...
It seems to be a never ending challenge and sometimes love/hate relationship as something else needs replacing or upgrading. I often ask myself why did I buy this thing; but we all know the answer: Love the torque and power and great fuel mileage in a good handling 4x4 SUV....

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon May 18, 2015 10:42 am

racertracer wrote:

First: a big shout out to RixRam.

Second: What a heck of job this was..... it took 40 hours within two weekends, with myself on wrenches and "RixRam" who is a home mechanic / engineer, CRD owner and a LostKJS member, directing the whole operation.

RixRam ---- "Rick" is more than familiar with how the Jeep Liberty CRD engine works and was meticulous with performing the repair.

With his help, the engine was back together without a hitch and now runs like a precision Swiss clock.

If you are in the Tri-State area of Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut and need the same work done to your CRD, then send him a message. He has all 4 of the OEM Miller suitcases, full of the tools specifically made for the CRD. Contact him to discuss his availability and fee.

This is not his main job, but one of his many hobbies.

My CRD runs phenomenally better than before.

Glad to hear it! And it was a pleasure to be of help (Shaymus, too).

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Thu May 21, 2015 11:55 am

Glad to hear it, RT. Sounds like the ARP studs are becoming the default install, as I expected. Given the amount of PITA just getting to the guts of the motor, I remain persuaded that this is the way to go. I was convinced that the motor ran smoother after I put the studs in.

racertracer wrote:

First: a big shout out to RixRam.

Second: What a heck of job this was..... it took 40 hours within two weekends, with myself on wrenches and "RixRam" who is a home mechanic / engineer, CRD owner and a LostKJS member, directing the whole operation.

RixRam ---- "Rick" is more than familiar with how the Jeep Liberty CRD engine works and was meticulous with performing the repair.

With his help, the engine was back together without a hitch and now runs like a precision Swiss clock.

If you are in the Tri-State area of Rhode Island, Massachusetts and Connecticut and need the same work done to your CRD, then send him a message. He has all 4 of the OEM Miller suitcases, full of the tools specifically made for the CRD. Contact him to discuss his availability and fee.

This is not his main job, but one of his many hobbies.

My CRD runs phenomenally better than before.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 5:31 am

LM the studs made a world of difference, the engine runs smoother.

For your info, I changed my mind and decided to replace the Head gasket.... I was on the fence about that.

I was considering not replacing it since my leak was minor but I am glad I did anyway, it offers a piece of mind.

I just wonder if the minor leak I was experiencing, might have been sealed just as well without replacing the HG and only replacing the studs one by one like you did ... it is a big job to go further than just removing the valve cover.

it's about 4 - 6 hours more to go past that stage and remove the PITA turbo and exhaust manifold.

I believe that those of us who are not experiencing a leak now and are planning to do their TB, should replace their OEM TTY bolts with the ARP studs.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 2:19 pm

racertracer wrote:

LM the studs made a world of difference, the engine runs smoother.

For your info, I changed my mind and decided to replace the Head gasket.... I was on the fence about that.

I was considering not replacing it since my leak was minor but I am glad I did anyway, it offers a piece of mind.

I just wonder if the minor leak I was experiencing, might have been sealed just as well without replacing the HG and only replacing the studs one by one like you did ... it is a big job to go further than just removing the valve cover.

it's about 4 - 6 hours more to go past that stage and remove the PITA turbo and exhaust manifold.

I believe that those of us who are not experiencing a leak now and are planning to do their TB, should replace their OEM TTY bolts with the ARP studs.

I forget who, but someone managed to pull the head without removing the turbo off of the manifold. I should have asked if he managed to leave the PITA oil return line attached to the bottom of the turbo. If we could just pulled the manifold, and pop the return line out of the grommet, it would make the job much faster, I think. I'm going to try this route soon. I'm guessing I could even get a strait edge in there to verify the manifold is within specs? hmm

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 6:39 pm

The oil return line does need to be at least loosened to pull out of the block, if you are just planning to lift the head versus actually remove the whole thing. You also have to dance around the top oil feed line - it is a pain, to be sure, but you might as well pull the whole thing. If nothing else, it makes the thing a lot lighter. The head itself is 38 lbs IIRC. Its a big beast.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 8:19 pm

geordi wrote:

The oil return line does need to be at least loosened to pull out of the block, if you are just planning to lift the head versus actually remove the whole thing. You also have to dance around the top oil feed line - it is a pain, to be sure, but you might as well pull the whole thing. If nothing else, it makes the thing a lot lighter. The head itself is 38 lbs IIRC. Its a big beast.

Thanks Geordi, but I'm still wondering if any of the shortcuts are worthwhile.

You think pulling turbo, then manifold is best option, or pulling them connected to each other? And you think it's not worth it to strap the whole unit off to the side, versus pulling it out of the jeep for more room to work?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 9:25 pm

Pull the turbo off.
Leave the exhaust manifold bolted to the head.
Lift the head and exhaust manifold off as one piece.
Re install the same way.

Lifting the head off with the turbo attached is not impossible but its very difficult when working by yourself.
Save your back and remove the turbo.

geordi · **Posted:** Fri May 22, 2015 10:25 pm

I've done it both ways, and it is difficult to see and inspect everything without pulling the head entirely. Pulling the turbo (at least unbolting it from the manifold) is annoying, but does clear a good bit of space to work.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat May 23, 2015 12:58 am

Thanks Flash, and Geordi! :JEEPIN:

Replaced, Timing belt, Head Gasket & Installed Arp Studs

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