My '05 Black CRD was rear ended back in March and totaled due to some significant frame damage. With no other CRD's for sale in the area at the time, I started to look at other SUV's but couldn't bring myself to buy any of them. I'm stuck on these darn CRD's! I waited until one popped up a few hours away from me and went to look at it. It was dirty, but ran well so I figured I would give it some TLC and work it back close to the condition my old one was in (near mint). This one is a 2006 Limited with 125k. My previous CRD was bought at 60kmiles and I immediately did the ORM and a few other minor things to get it running right. It never ran great (never had the GDE Tune) but it was getting 23 to 26 mpg so I was happy with it. This one has 125k miles and, as far as I can tell, are all original CCV-EGR miles.

I have a number of concerns that need to be addressed but I would like some guidance from the guru's here before I start tearing into things.

First and foremost, the dealer I bought it from THOUGHT he remembered hearing the PO say the timing belt was done. I pulled the cover and it doesn't look like it has been. The belt is in OK condition, but it is a Goodyear and doesn't look new enough to have been replaced at 100k. I'm making this priority #1. I am going to do it myself (Unless Jim plans on vacationing in Prescott, AZ this summer), so I'll need to start accumulating the parts and tools for the job. IDParts will supply the kit, of course. Any recommendation on the best place to get the non-standard tools required to finish the job?

I immediately unplugged the MAF and pulled the MAP sensor out and cleaned it. It was 100% caked over, as expected. Not much noticeable difference in power or drive-ability but it seems like the EVIC is reporting a slightly higher average mpg now.

I pulled the CAC hose to check for oil and damage. It was surprisingly clean and there was no crack in the hose, but it was a black liner so it has already been replaced at some point. I checked the turbo vanes while I had it open. I've never done any work with a turbo so I'm not sure what they are supposed to look like. I was a little concerned at the look of mine. It has slight fore-aft motion (maybe .020") and about half that amount side to side. It seems to run fine, no noise or stalling that I can discern. I also cannot see any rubbing from the vanes on the housing but it was tough to get down in there and really see it well. Does this thing look/sound like its clapped out?



The turbo hoses are definitely a little soft, so I'm thinking of replacing those pretty quickly. My second largest concern with this vehicle is the amount of miles it has had with (as far as I know) the CCV and EGR both active. I'm worried that the intake is completely clogged with sludge. I know this question has been asked, discussed, argued and debated over...but has anyone found a reasonable way to clean the intake without removing it? I work too much to have the car down for 2 days or more just to remove and clean the intake. I can live with it the way it is, but my mileage is awful right now and I want to start cleaning things up to get it back to where my old one was. It seems like the jury is still out on Seafoam and other direct injection cleaning methods. I've heard of Motorvac as well. I don't know if anyone in my area even has one, but what is the general consensus on that service? Snake oil or legit?

Finally, I think the FCV is shot, it makes a buzzing noise for a few seconds if I crank the vehicle over quickly then shut it off (inspecting the timing belt). Should I inspect/remove the gate and unplug this thing?

EDIT: Almost forgot! I am having continual air in fuel filter head problems. My old CRD needed to be bled about once every 2 weeks. I just sucked it up and lived with it because it wasn't that bad. This one is more like every 2 - 3 days and takes a huge mileage and power hit when I wait longer than that. It actually starts to stutter at low speed and during mild acceleration. Harder acceleration fixes the starvation, but it looks like a lift pump is in my future to really get this problem solved. Has anyone had any luck taping or otherwise sealing the quick disconnects in the fuel line as a temporary fix to at least lengthen the amount of time between bleeds?

Are there any other glaring issues I should be looking into on this thing? Right now I'm getting 20 - 22 mpg which defeats the purpose of driving the CRD libby (aside from the foot joy). I want to get the ECO tune to get the mileage up, but I don't think it makes sense to spend the money on that if I have a half dozen other problems dragging me down first. Thanks for reading all of this! I look forward to getting your opinions on how to tackle this beast and wrench it into submission.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

Sorry about your original CRD; lost my original new in the box so to speak 05 the same way. I stopped for red light but dump truck did not. Tough little beast had top of rear lift gate pushed to just behind my head but no harm to me.

Anyway:
1. yep what a dealer thought someone said means nothing - do the belt using the idparts kit. Weeks101 and maybe GDE has tools you need for rent. If you email me I can send you my write up with pictures.
2. based on your turbo picture plus you mention no crack I suspect what you pulled to get there was the air box to turbo hose not the CAC (turbo to intercooler to engine) hoses. As long as that hose is solid you are fine. FYI be sure to pull/push the air box end all the way on until it touches the MAF sensor before tightening the clamp lest you crush the plastic air box outlet, been there done that.
3. turbo "fan" sounds fine - just a bit for fore/aft play and a bare hint of side to side play is what you want.
4. CAC hoses are ok for now if a little soft unless they are soggy, like a sponge, with oil. If soggy idparts may still have a deal on their brand silicone hoses.
5. cleaning the intake cannot be done on the vehicle although if you can get the intake elbow off (FYI replace its bolts with studs if you do) you can clean it off the vehicle and using a spoon or some such scoop some of the goop out of near parts of the intake. The "good" news is the goop is pretty "wet" as opposed to the nasty stuff on the MAP so once you get an EGR delete (FYI there are free tunes that do this if you cannot afford the GDE tune just yet and I'd put a priority on the TB job over the GDE tune) the relatively clean oil coming from the CCV will slowly dissolve the goop.
6. FCV does not sound shot as it will buzz as it opens/closes but inspection won't hurt. Can be removed with Weeks101 elbow kit.
7. does you fuel filter head have a blue plug on the driver side? If not get 2 gen filter head and wiring from idparts and replace the junk early filter head. Otherwise the cheap air fix is to drop the tank and replace the quick disconnects on the fuel supply line with marine grade diesel rated fuel line and appropriate clamps. Lift pump is helpful but not required.

Based on in town 10 mile drives at average speed of 25mph vs. hwy at 62mph ca 1800rpm look for 18mpg in town and 26mpg or so hwy for unmodified vehicle. Just a reminder that the EVIC mpg is a wild guess so best do a GPS odometer correction factor and hand calculate to find out what your real mpg is.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

You may also want to consider getting a new thermostat.
Although I doubt your engine will have trouble reaching full operating temperature in summertime in AZ. (the factory thermostat typically fails in the open position)

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U.S. Army Retired

IDParts has a fantastic price on a full timing belt kit, we rent the tools you need to do the job yourself and SirSam has how-to videos on YouTube.

http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=2721
https://shop.sasquatchparts.com/product ... ol-rental/
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... obDPGbbwVD

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SasquatchParts.com

Supporting Vendor

Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Chevy Colorado/GMC Canyon 2.8L Duramax

Sorry about your original CRD; lost my original new in the box so to speak 05 the same way. I stopped for red light but dump truck did not. Tough little beast had top of rear lift gate pushed to just behind my head but no harm to me.

Same here, 30mph direct hit from the rear pinched me between the guy who hit me and the car in front of me. All the doors were about 1/16" gap at the top and 1/4" gap at the bottom. I didn't even have any soreness from it, so they did something right with the safety systems on the CRD!

Anyway:
1. yep what a dealer thought someone said means nothing - do the belt using the idparts kit. Weeks101 and maybe GDE has tools you need for rent. If you email me I can send you my write up with pictures.

I'll take you up on the write-up offer. Look for an email from me soon. I may or may not be making an order with GDE soon anyway, so I'll talk to them about the tools.

2. based on your turbo picture plus you mention no crack I suspect what you pulled to get there was the air box to turbo hose not the CAC (turbo to intercooler to engine) hoses. As long as that hose is solid you are fine. FYI be sure to pull/push the air box end all the way on until it touches the MAF sensor before tightening the clamp lest you crush the plastic air box outlet, been there done that.

Yup, just the turbo intake hose. It seems to be in good condition.

3. turbo "fan" sounds fine - just a bit for fore/aft play and a bare hint of side to side play is what you want.

Good to hear!

4. CAC hoses are ok for now if a little soft unless they are soggy, like a sponge, with oil. If soggy idparts may still have a deal on their brand silicone hoses.

They are not weeping oil at all, so it doesn't seem like they are spongy. I can easily take my pointer finger and thumb and compress the two walls of the hose together without much force, however. It just SEEMS like a pressurized hose should have more resistance than that.

5. cleaning the intake cannot be done on the vehicle although if you can get the intake elbow off (FYI replace its bolts with studs if you do) you can clean it off the vehicle and using a spoon or some such scoop some of the goop out of near parts of the intake. The "good" news is the goop is pretty "wet" as opposed to the nasty stuff on the MAP so once you get an EGR delete (FYI there are free tunes that do this if you cannot afford the GDE tune just yet and I'd put a priority on the TB job over the GDE tune) the relatively clean oil coming from the CCV will slowly dissolve the goop.

I'll have to look into the free tune for this. I haven't heard about that unless you're talking about the SEGR? I absolutely give the TB priority over the tune. I actually don't plan on getting a tune until I have most of these other issues ironed out. So you would recommend leaving the CCV intact (no EHM/Provent) for at least a while to allow it to clean things out?

6. FCV does not sound shot as it will buzz as it opens/closes but inspection won't hurt. Can be removed with Weeks101 elbow kit.

Is the elbow kit recommended regardless of the FCV condition? It seems like I hear alot about the elbow upgrade but I haven't researched it enough to know its merits.

7. does you fuel filter head have a blue plug on the driver side? If not get 2 gen filter head and wiring from idparts and replace the junk early filter head. Otherwise the cheap air fix is to drop the tank and replace the quick disconnects on the fuel supply line with marine grade diesel rated fuel line and appropriate clamps. Lift pump is helpful but not required.

It is a gen2 head, I made sure of that. It just sucks air like it was made to do it! I haven't replaced the filter itself yet as I was waiting to potentially run some Seafoam through the tank. I would do that right before changing the filter. I'll have to decide if I want to bite the bullet and do a full lift pump install since I have the tank out anyway, or chance it and see if replacing the connections is enough. Decisions, decisions...

Based on in town 10 mile drives at average speed of 25mph vs. hwy at 62mph ca 1800rpm look for 18mpg in town and 26mpg or so hwy for unmodified vehicle. Just a reminder that the EVIC mpg is a wild guess so best do a GPS odometer correction factor and hand calculate to find out what your real mpg is.

I drive 12 miles to and from work every day at 50 - 60 mph (depends on how pissed off I am at the people who work for me that day). The EVIC says I'm getting anywhere from 25.5mpg to 28mpg depending on a number of factors. I haven't done a GPS correction, but my hand calculations put me at roughly 20.5mpg when the EVIC reads 25.5, so I assume it is off by about 5mpg as a generalization right now. I haven't run a full tank since cleaning the MAP sensor so I'll have to check it again. My EVIC has been reading 27mpg on average since my last fill up so hopefully it has helped at least a little bit.

Awesome response. Thanks for the insight!

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

The thermostat is toast for sure. I knew that at the dealership and beat them up pretty good on the price telling them how much it cost to buy and how "hard it was to replace".

I'll be getting one of those soon, but with summer on the way I may hold off installing it until the end of the year. I manage a CNC machine shop so I may try to tackle the thermostat housing conversion that has been done here on the forums myself, just as a side project.

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

"I'll take you up on the write-up offer.” OK

"They are not weeping oil at all, so it doesn't seem like they are spongy. I can easily take my pointer finger and thumb and compress the two walls of the hose together without much force, however. It just SEEMS like a pressurized hose should have more resistance than that." NO there is no internal pressure unless your engine is running and then not much at idle. Yours sound ok for now.

"I'll have to look into the free tune for this. I haven't heard about that unless you're talking about the SEGR?..... So you would recommend leaving the CCV intact (no EHM/Provent) for at least a while to allow it to clean things out?" You will have to poke around on the forum for the free EGR delete tune(s); I could be wrong by seems to me yeti has one. SEGR is ancient school; ok but save your $s for a GDE tune and if you have to wait use one of the free ones. EHM dumps oil on ground which is bad and can freeze in winter and blow rear main seal which is worse (have to drop tranny to fix). Provent is ok but with the MAF disconnected or an EGR delete tune of some sort why waste the $s to catch a few tablespoons of oil at xxx interval.

"Is the elbow kit recommended regardless of the FCV condition? It seems like I hear alot about the elbow upgrade but I haven't researched it enough to know its merits." I have the kit but have not installed it would spend your $s on GDE tune first. Perhaps biggest benefit of kit is the new intake elbow with studs instead of bolts hence my comment if you pull your current intake elbow at least replace it's bolts from he@l with studs.

"It is a gen2 head, I made sure of that. It just sucks air like it was made to do it!" Hum, splice a bit of clear vinyl tube between the intake line and the filter head and at idle see if you see bubbles of air. There are a number of places that air can get in at the filter head - lose WIF sensor; when filter was replaced old small inner gasket was left on; bleeder not seating; or primer pump seal leaking. If it was me and I dropped the tank I'd just delete the fittings then there is no possible source of air between the tank and the filter head.

"I drive 12 miles to and from work every day at 50 - 60 mph (depends on how pissed off I am at the people who work for me that day)." Your hand calculated but not GPS corrected mpg for that drive is reasonable especially if, as indicated elsewhere, you tstat is toast (engine temp not reaching nearly vertical) which carries a ca. 10% mpg penalty. Lets "e" chat before you buy a new tstat as I might have a couple of deals for you to consider.

PS in AZ your viscous heater is a parasitic drag on the engine that provides zero benefit so do your self a favor and unplug its relay. I like to cut a block of ethefoam or some such to place in the hole just to keep dust off the contacts just in case I want to plug the relay back in.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Good info. Email sent. I hadn't considered the viscous heater in this jeep or my old one. I wonder how much that cost me over the three years I drove it. Does the FSM show the location of the relay? I'm at work now, so I'll check when I get home unless someone chimes in earlier. Thanks!

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2006 Limited CRD: Frankenlift II, Fumoto Drain Plug, DIY Stage 1 Tune, In-Tank Lift Pump

Look in the owner's manual (top shelf in glove box or online in the for owners section of the Jeep website) under power distribution center.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'm looking into the Hot Diesel Model 001, but I'm curious about what other deals you may know about for a better tstat for the CRD??

Thanks!
Salvatore

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2005 KJ CRD Forest Green - bought @ 11,000 mi
GD EcoTune, Samcos, 2Gen Fuel Filter,
K&N HiFlo Air Filter, Hot Diesel Model 001 TStat coming soon!
EBC 3GD Dimp&Slot Rotors & Green Stuff Pads
ClsIII Hitch, Tow Kit, Prodigy P2 (towing camper or toys), Cargo Basket
P225/75R16 Wrangler AT Adventure
110,000+ miles (Timing Belt done!)