This could be a dumb question since I have never worked on Ball joints before, but I am putting on the JBA UCA's with my lift and am trying to remove the old ball joint nut. The nuts(all of them) come about half way off and then gets tight and wont budge any farther. Am I doing something wrong here?

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

That issue usually only comes up with vehicles that've been exposed to lots of road salt, corrosive elements, etc. IF you have replacements, the only way to look at it is THEY GOT TO COME OFF! This can involve heating them (red hot, as in cutting torch), cutting them with said torch, sawzall between nut and spindle/control arm, cold chisel/large hammer/steady hand, etc. Keep in mind these are all destructive methods, and make sure you know what you're destroying and trying to save.

Bob

Spray ball joint well with good penetrating oil, not WD40.
When removing the nut pry down on the UCA to keep the ball joint tight down in the spindle
Never had an issue removing that way

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Tom, I took "tight, won't budge any further" to mean it hasn't broke taper and spinning. I am thankful every time I do get stuck working on some rust ball Yankee rig that most of our southern rigs are just dusty and shook to schit. after "tight, won't budge any further I've never found a magic spray that amounts to squat. Best Ive found is PB Blaster,(and then if applied before threads seize) if you know of a better one please spread the news!

Bob

Yeah, if you didn't hit them with pb blaster first, then you can try spraying them and tightening it back up, and then loose, but it may have become one now, and cutting it off may be easier. I had to buy a tap and die of that size just for the ball joints

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

The thing is, they loosen no problem and are very easy to unthread, then all of a sudden they hit a tight spot after unthreading a half inch or so and then get stuck. Its the weirdest thing.

I have the uppers in the JBA UCAs. I also figured I would do the lowers since I would be taking most of the front end apart anyways so I do have MOOG lowers as well.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Sounds like a damaged thread/seized thread. If you can tighten back up, try Blaster, SeaFoam, etc and a stiff bristled steel brush to clean threads, then inspect for what ever's causing tightness. I'd still resort to a sawsall to cut the threaded shaft below the fully tightened nut and eliminate the freeze up.

Bob

Ok cool, ill see if the PB works and then cut em if I have to. I just wanted to make sure that there was not some top secret method i didnt know about where you dont take the nuts all the way off. I just found it really weird that all 4 have the same exact issue.

Edit: got em. I think it was actually the Nylon from the lock nuts coming apart and getting sucked back into the threads as I turned them off. Once I cycled them a few times and brushed the crude out it seemed to clear it all.

Thanks for the help.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Much better sprays than PB Blaster out there
I only use Aerokroil now, ( for last several years) so much better than PB Blaster

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

It was the nylon that was the issue and why it's so effective as a locking feature.

Better than PBblaster!? Thanks Tom I'll be picking up a can

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I know it's a non issue now, because you've already broke em free.

I like to gently wire wheel the threads of rusted bolts before reinstalling them.

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --