double check the rear sensor. The symptoms your having, ABS light, no odometer, but speedo works are pointing directly to the rear sensor.

The dealer looked at it twice, I replaced the connector and the sensor, everyone involved believed we had checked it completely. It was a tip from another LOST member that had me look at the wiring again. No easy way to check it except to remove rear seat to get at the connector for that wiring. I didn't do that, and just blindly replaced a foot of wire, and "bobs your uncle" it cleared the issue. I stripped the old wire and could plainly see that the wire had separated within the insulation for no apparent reason.

I speculate that wire is constantly moving with the diff and the strain eventually pulls the conductor apart.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I just have this now as well.

esp/bas, no speedo, no tach, abs, tpm & CEL=[u0121, c2102]

this had a full abs module replacement a month ago. Big issue with break pedal fadding to the floor. (still exists)

This is starting to sound like the speed sensor - is there anyway to detect which wheel without an inspection?

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06 Liberty CRD Limited. Stock. 119K.

woodtick, did you get this fixed?

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Actually, yes. Thursday afternoon I replaced the last sensor and that seems to have cured the issue. It turned out the left front one was the culprit. I put around 600 miles (went up north to the cabin over the weekend) on the CRD since then and the warning lights have not returned. I didn't want to post to soon and jinx it.

So, to some it up, items replaced were rear sensor and plug at the diff, and both front sensors at the hubs. I've probably got around $130 in parts. Probably still cheaper that a diagnostic at the $tealership, which may not have been definitive as to which sensor was the bad one.

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

Where is up north? I spend my free time near Lac Du Flambeau.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Eagle River

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2005 Red KJ CRD, TOTALED 12-21-11

2005 Blue KJ Sport CRD, GDE, Magnaflow muffler, Destination AT, Amsoil filters, Fumoto, Timing belt and waterpump @ 99,600, 11 blade nylon fan, 2905 hayden fan clutch, EURO TC




Arguing about whether the glass is half full or half empty misses the point: the bartender cheated you.
Unknown

Folks Eurekaboy (google eurekaboy abstest) has a good method for testing continuity on rear sensors (06). I have successfully used this 30K ago to identify which side and fix rear harness.Has anyone identified where one can do the same on the front? it must all feedinto the abs module but does anyone have the pins identified?

I have all 3 lights on but speedo and odometer work. I recently did brake job and suspect fronts but looking for an easy way to identify which side. Dealer charges for scans...so that's out.

If you just did the brakes, there is a good chance that one of the ABS sensor wires got loose and rubbed against the inside of the wheel.
Pull the front wheels off and check the wires.
It happened to me.

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U.S. Army Retired