I'm a huge fan of seafoam...I wouldn't worry to much about lose particles clocking the filter..they are built to bypass such issues and the seafoam with disolve most particles to a thinned out sludge. I tried Mystery oil for a fraction of the cost and it worked pretty good..both can be put in the oil and fuel, 1 gal is about $17 bucks a walmart, id stick with the seafoam...great stuff..just dont run it in your intake

In my opinion, seafoam is a great intake and fuel system cleaner. I occasionally add it to my tank just before an oil change.

For internal engine cleaning, auto-rx is one of the most gentle and effective means of ensuring an engine is spotless internally. It has worked miracles in previous cars of mine curing leaking seals, sticky rings, noisy lifters, and for other folks removing varnish and sludge.

www.auto-rx.com read the testimonials on their website and on www.bobistheoilguy.com.

What about Rislone?

http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

can auto-RX be used with Rotella T6 5W-40? the say type 3 oil chemistry

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

According to the instructions on the web site..... No it can't.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I think T5 synth blend would be best for ARX application...

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

Im pretty sure you arent supposed to drive the vehicle after youve put in an engine flush. At least that's what Ive read on the can (Lubro Moly, Amsoil etc) when Ive done it.

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2006 KJ CRD Ltd - Suncoast, GDE Eco, EGR Delete, After market T-Stat, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back
2005 KJ CRD Sport-Suncoast, Transco, GDE Hot-GDE Trans, EGR Delete, Skid Row skids, V6 airbox, 2.5" Turbo back, After market S-Stat
1987 Suzuki LWB Samurai -diesel powered, custom 4 link coil suspension 38.5 SX Swampers

Yes, that's true, if you drive with the 5 minute flush in the engine, say bye bye to the engine.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I'm a trucker.


(regarding wet stacking and injector coking due to idling.)

I have never had issues idling my truck overnight in the cold winters up here. My truck is a 1990 Ford L9000 tandem axle with a Cummins engine in it. 6,798200 KM's on the engine. Pulls hard, tons of torque, spends lots of time idling on job sites and in traffic and gets one or two hard freeway runs daily. Original piston rings, pistons, etc. Engine never been apart aside from water pump replacement. Oil change (Shell rotella 15W40) every 5000 KM's. (not my truck, its the company truck)


as for engine flushes.........they can be useful, but the real danger is doing one in a old engine that has never had proper driving temps or oil change intervals........the detergents can loosen all sorts of gunk and sludge and clog the oil galleries and damage the bearing journals and cams.

An example is my neighbour's Oldsmobile. It went for 20 years with maybe 1 oil change every two to three years. He just topped up the oil as needed. Short trips to the bingo hall and beer store. One day he decided to change the oil and used two cans of Seafoam prior to draining the oil. . The engine after ten minutes of idling promptly came to a clattering halt, the entire sump ended up being completely jammed with soft sludge and the engine starved of oil.

best procedure is to use the proper synthetic engine oil, which is full of detergents already, and to frequently change the oil and filter. As well, proper driving where the engine gets fully up to temps for extended periods of time is best. Short trips not so good.

old thread i know, but i stumbled on it looking for something else and wanted to put in my 2 cents.

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Got Sheep?

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 271'000+ KM's, ORM, Muffler Delete, MOROSO oil/air separator unit, 1000 CA battery, ARB Bull bumper, OME coils/shocks 2" lift. Custom BushRoo roof rack & Bush Joey hitch rack. Mobil1-301 oil filter & Mobil 1 DELVAC ESP 0W40 Full Synthetic oil, custom rear hatch cargo rack. RACOR 245 filterhead

The only flush my engines get, is the old oil gets drained, and the new gets put in.

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2006 LTD Bright Silver loaded with all the needed mods, CCV intact.
Proudly supporting CRD vendors, and their development of quality parts and accessories.
Equipped with HDS thermostat, plenty of heat, faster warm-ups, increased fuel mileage.

I have not put anything in my oil but oil since 2010 when I tried seafoam. I still use it in the fuel once or twice a year

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs