last fall i put brand new rotors and brakes on my 2004 jeep liberty renegade.. the rear had worn very quickly.. after replacing them the first few times i drove my jeep the rear were smoking hot.. i had a buddy help me check and the brake pads were stuck.. we cleaned up any rust from the caliber and tested and it seemed ok.. but a few days later the front started to stick too.. so one day i was backing up in my driveway which is on an old gravel road and i heard a loud pop.. i had it in 4low when it happened.. it had pop before and i never thought anything of it but this one was loud.. then i tried to get it out of 4low and it was making a grinding noise from what i think is the front.. if i leave it in part-time it doesnt make any noise.. but if i move it to any other setting or out of 4wd it makes that noise.. so i asked a few local mechanics and none of them were confident enough to look at it so i had to goto the dealer.. they called me and told me they believe the front axle is broken.. they told me it would cost over 400$ just labor to break it all down so they can look at the front end to see if there is anything else wrong besides the axle.. they also warned me it was not safe to drive like that especially at hwy speeds.. total estimate to fix with parts they said it could be 1000-1200.. and thats only if they don't find anything else broken or damaged..

i need advice.. i love my jeep.. it has about 180K miles on it.. i don't drive it often enough since we bought a newer car for better gas mileage.. i mainly use it during winter and the occasional trips with a trailer.. i want to get it fixed but i dunno if i should try to find a local mechanic to take on the job to save on labor costs..

what do you guys think?

any help/advice greatly appreciated..

Sounds like to entirely separate issues. One being the brakes, the other being the axle/pop. Repairing either, taking for granted nothing's actually wrong with the differential internally, aren't all that hard, IF your mechanical aptitude is slightly above average.

Brake issue sounds like either sticky caliper pistons, frozen caliper mount sliders, or restricted flexible brake hoses. Personally, I prefer to replace all those components just to not have to do it in different stages. When brakes are sticking, open the bleeder. If it frees up, it's likely the hoses, if it doesn't free up it can be either piston sticking, or the sliding bolts that cause caliper to exert force on both sides of the rotor. If you unseat the caliper and those bolts don't move freely, then the caliper mount needs replaced. If they do move freely expect it to be the pistons.

Replacing a CV axle requires removing brakes, lower control arm bolt and sway bar link so arm can swing down to allow the axle to come out of the clevis. Only special tools needed are a socket for axle nut and a torque wrench to properly tighten the axle nut to specified torque.

I'd sure as hell find an independent shop (or two) for estimates before going to the dealer!

Bob

thanks Bob.. i am talking with a local mechanic that might take on the job. the guy im talking with said we need to check the axle first and the brakes we would check/replace those components you mentioned.. i hope nothing else is damaged as well.. still weird since i haven't been 4x4 anywhere extreme..

Silly question. Do you have abs?

Do the wheels spins freely if elevated off the ground after the brake pedal has been depressed then released, with and without the engine running?

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2004 KJ 3.7 Limited:
IRO WJ Upper Arm -- WJ Rear LCA's -- Rear Driveshaft Spacer -- JBA Upper A Arms -- 4 inch Lift -- 265/75/16 4" B/S -- WasherBottle Relocate -- Custom High Mount Intake -- Carpet Delete -- Homebrew Winch Bumper -- Warn VR8000 -- Homemade Plow -- Pinch Weld POUNDED -- POR 15 inner fenders --