i have an 05 liberty crd. the previous owner had added the elephant hose modification and unplugged the sensor that operated the ccv pump. a couple of days ago i removed the EHM and reattached the hose to the pump and connected the sensor wire.

question 1 - the check engine light has not went off. how many start cycles will it have to have to clear the code generated by the sensor being unplugged before?

question 2 - what if the code is real and the pump is malfunctioning? will this cause problems? will pressure build up in the crank case? how do i diagnose it?

question 3 - many posts on this website say to not use the marks on the oil dipstick, but to just put the correct amount of oil in when you change it. is there an aftermarket dipstick i can buy? i thought about just making new marks on the current one but the end shifts up and down about a quarter inch and i never know what position it was in while checking the oil level. and i usually add about one quart between changes, so a solid dipstick would be nice.

question 4 - how much oil? i have seen at least two different numbers on this forum



i should also add that i disconnected the battery when removing the EHM. i was replacing the alternator at the same time. i don't know if that should have erased the codes or not. it did erase my avg mpg in the overhead console though.


any advice is appreciated. thanks

Per the FSM the jeep with standard filter takes 6.4 quarts. With an M301 or equivalent it will use basically 7.0 quarts

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05 CRD Sport - GDE EcoTune - Samcos - EGR Delete & Elbow kit - ARP Studs - Airtex E7181M

I use the WIX 51515XP synthetic media filter. It holds 26 ounces. The factory sized WIX 51516XP holds 15 ounces. With the 51515XP, the CRD takes 6.75 quarts to the full mark.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

thanks for the answers guys. i had the code cleared yesterday and it has yet to return. so maybe it's all good.

anybody have a solution for the dipstick? can you just buy a different style that doesn't have that thing on the end that shifts?

could you clarify "full mark"? everything i have read on this forum says not to fill to the full mark on the dipstick in order to prevent excessive blowby and possible engine damage from being overfull.

For me, "full mark" = the MAX mark on the dip stick. I have not experienced excessive blowby or engine damage.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

The easiest way to find your correct full mark is to drain all the oil out, change to the M1-301 Mobil one filter, and put back exactly 7 quarts.

Run the engine for 30 seconds to fill the filter up.

Now leave it alone for about 5 minutes to make sure all the oil has drained back to the bottom. NOW pull the dipstick and check it. This is your new full marker. Scratching a line in the stick with a file is the preferred way to mark it.

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