Chasing the "Clunk" my odysess FIXED

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:24 pm

After all my upgrades and running the jeep for the last 2 weeks my clunk has become bothersome.
Since I have all my major maintenance service work done time to chase the clunk out of my Jeep.

Possible causes ...

spline not greased DONE
Rear control arm Boomerang DONE
Shocks / springs rear DONE OME - Bilstein
struts / springs front DONE OME - Bilstein
New rotors and pads all around Drilled slotted ceramic DONE

Not done

front A UCA
U Joints
Lower front A control arm bushings
engine isolators

pjigar · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:49 pm

Funny you say this but I have actually notice "clunk" AFTER I replaced rear coils and shocks with EMU. I want to know where the "clunk" is coming from. I notice it when I drive over a bump.

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:21 pm

the rear end clunk while going over bumps could be the spring rate REBOUND. I dont have that clunk, turning starting stopping twisting ...

pjigar · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:45 pm

Are those upper A arm bushings? If you replace A-arm then use long (18 inch) extension with wobble socket from the front of the jeep in order to reach the inside A-Arm bolt. Also disconnect steering column bracket (two 8 mm bolts in the driver side wheel well) to give you more room for the deep socket. Battery, battery tray and air box needs to come out before you see any A-arm bolts.

pjigar · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:48 pm

Did you check the front upper and lower ball joints? They were really bad on mine at 91K miles in southern state. Boots were gone on all ball joints.

BlackHawkGunner · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:59 pm

pjigar wrote:

Funny you say this but I have actually notice "clunk" AFTER I replaced rear coils and shocks with EMU. I want to know where the "clunk" is coming from. I notice it when I drive over a bump.

Could be unrelated to suspension. I had a clunk from bumps that I thought was from suspension at first then eventually noticed the rear door latch mechanism screws were loose. Tightened them up and was glad I didn't have to invest time and money into chasing suspension parts yet. They're Torx head screws. Maybe it will help...

pjigar · **Posted:** Wed Aug 05, 2015 11:02 pm

BlackHawkGunner wrote:

Could be unrelated to suspension. I had a clunk from bumps that I thought was from suspension at first then eventually noticed the rear door latch mechanism screws were loose. Tightened them up and was glad I didn't have to invest time and money into chasing suspension parts yet. They're Torx head screws. Maybe it will help...

You may have a point. I replaced the gas springs on the rear door and the added force of new gas springs may have loosened these screws.

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Thu Aug 06, 2015 9:38 pm

So today was productive and very expensive. Pulled the Upper and lower control arms, picked up the moog bushings.

In retrospect I should have ordered two new stock lower control arms for $140.0 each. $350 with shipping, instead I purchased the moog bushings and have to pay to get them installed.

$120 in bushings and $36 labor per bushing(6) for a grand total of $336 parts and labor.

$65 bucks for the strut labor.

$450 for two JBA lifted upper control arms.

Motor mounts $100

A grand total of $950 .... :banghead:

I need to stop spending money !

At least I know this little tractor will be solid when Im done

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 08, 2015 10:49 am

Almost done motor mounts in PITA waiting for my new UCAs from jeepnal

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sat Aug 08, 2015 11:03 am

After you put on the JBA UCAs be sure to check for clearance/rubbing of the UCA and tire. It will depend on how much lift and how wide a tire. I had to order (cheap) Mr Gasket wheel spacers (about .21" thick) to gain clearance with my 255/70/16s. My new 245/75/16s would have probably cleared but I left the spacers in...since I already had them.

***I had also added 3 conduit clevis nuts for a bit extra lift...so that causes a closer fit too***

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2015 11:45 pm

The clunk is gone ..not sure what fixed it. I know what didn't, but I can narrow it down to one of the following.

Motor isolators ..
Upper control arms
Lower control are complete bushing "moog" all Six
New struts

One of the motor mount was bad, along with all bushings showing their age.

The OME springs and bilstein set make the tractor a nice tight ride.

Pep boys did the alignment, I paid $150 for five year - 5000 mile alignment plan. LOL they will be busy every 5000 miles for sure. I put 1000 miles on every 2 weeks, and the roads I drive are pretty rough. Every 2 months I can stop in for an alignment :goink:

retail no coupons 75.00 per alignment.

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 19, 2015 9:45 pm

I started getting a small very annoying clunk form the rear of the libby a couple days ago. It was easy to isolate by jumping up and down while standing on the rear bumper. It turned out the Bilstein shocks I installed 5100 series top mounting eye need to be retro fitted with some bushings. The road noise and ride is now way better than the stock ever could be. I pressed out the bottom and the top bushings and replaced them both ..left and right.

:rockon:

The bushing I ordered was from summit racing ...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sja-es25

deeprecon1 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:22 pm

Chasing the "Clunk" my odysess FIXED

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