Jeep Will Not Start

shirschi1 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:58 pm **Posts:** 8

2006 CRD with 90K miles will not start. Engine cranks fine. Tested suction on fuel pump, tested at 10psi. While cranking,< 10sec, once in a while a cylinder will fire but the engine will not start. I used the primer to pump a couple of pints of fuel and I am not seeing air bubbles. Almost full tank. Anybody have an idea why it won't start?

Additional Information:

A week or so ago, in Wendy's parking lot, the engine would not start, engine cranked fine. I turned off the ignition and let it sit for a few minutes it started up. Drove it for about 100 miles over a few days. Needed to run an errand a few days later,the engine wouldn't start.

I ordered a camshaft position sensor, drained and changed the fuel filter, checked the fuel lines back to the tank. I also changed out the fuel pump relay.

Thank you

dan86 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:25 am

In no particular order-
1 or more junk injectors
asd relay
crank position sensor
cam position sensor
Map sensor
Could be more but I'd start there.

2003 KJ Liberty 2.5 CRD

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:09 am

What dan86 said......easiest thing is to first swap over the ASD relay with an identical one near to it.

Do you have the red SKREEM anti-theft light ON while cranking or maybe the LED is flashing at you?

Bear in mind that the LHD 2006 CRDs have a known problem that the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket can have the wire harness routed behind it and hence wires can be pinched to be able to short to chassis. So if the above steps do not fix your problem...remove the mounting bracket and have a good look at the condition of the wire harness behind it. :wink:

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:30 am

Your battery will need to be in good shape and have enough amps left over to power up all the other computers.

It may have enough juice to crank but not enough left over to power all the rest.

And if you're going to charge the battery, don't do it with the cables connected. People have fried their ECU that way.

Check battery first.

shirschi1 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:58 pm **Posts:** 8

Thanks to all!
After 50 years of working on light fuel stuff, needed every second to learn the simple solution is usually the best. I swapped the ASD relay and got an almost instant start. Started the battery charger just the same. I will change out the MAP sensor just because it's easy and I hate using my mtn survival skills.

I plan to change the timing belt soon, where do I get the upgraded turbo hoses? I reprogrammed my ECU per the Green Diesel upgrade several years ago, I've loved it, anything better come along?

Once again thanks.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Jul 14, 2015 8:54 am

idparts house brand CAC hoses should be very good.

CGman · **Posted:** Tue Jul 14, 2015 10:24 pm

Swapping the ASD relay worked on mine the first time...but then it happened again, and again.. :evil:

Ended up being the Crankshaft position sensor...random no fires, no CEL indication, mostly after engine had been running (hot engine start)

shirschi1 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:58 pm **Posts:** 8

Thanks, I have one coming. I love living at the end of the supply lines. The standard auto parts line is I can have it here by Wed.

Thanks again

Cos · **Joined:** Sun Aug 09, 2015 1:00 pm **Posts:** 2

Hi guys.

I'm a newbie here and am having a very similar problem as the thread owner here. My jeep is a Liberty cherokee 2004 2.8 crd limited.

I'm pretty sure that it's not the battery as it was changed about 4 months ago and it cranks with plenty of power. Unfortunately, that's all it does. No coughing, no spluttering just constant cranking.

However, what I did want to ask is if anyone on here has had the same problem and has ended up with spare parts that they changed but that didn't need changing. eg CPS AND CAM sensor etc

I'm not sure what the problem is with mine. There is plenty of fuel in the tank, fuel pressure is there, I have switched over the relays and checked the fuses, so I'm hoping it's something simple as we were meant to be selling it in January for a larger 4x4.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I may also be looking for someone to do the work on my driveway if there is anyone in the North Midlands/cheshire that offers this service.

shirschi · **Joined:** Fri Feb 04, 2011 2:14 pm **Posts:** 8

I am still having problems. The CRD hasn't moved under its own power for 3 weeks. I talked with the local dealer, convinced me to change out tank unit. He said "there is a boost pump that wears out." I pointed out that the tech manual specifically says no boost pump. I still bit for $180 USD. (Very much shame on me.) After every thing was hooked up no start. I re-bled the fueline. Got a start then tried again no, start. Cleaned the MAF tapped on the fuel selenoid tried once more, started and has for about ten or twelve tries. Can the fuel selenoid stick and shut fuel off to the injectors? Once running it runs very smooth. Fuel pump pulling 3.6 psi.

Thanks

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2015 4:52 am

Cos wrote:

Hi guys.

I'm a newbie here and am having a very similar problem as the thread owner here. My jeep is a Liberty cherokee 2004 2.8 crd limited.

I'm pretty sure that it's not the battery as it was changed about 4 months ago and it cranks with plenty of power. Unfortunately, that's all it does. No coughing, no spluttering just constant cranking.

However, what I did want to ask is if anyone on here has had the same problem and has ended up with spare parts that they changed but that didn't need changing. eg CPS AND CAM sensor etc

I'm not sure what the problem is with mine. There is plenty of fuel in the tank, fuel pressure is there, I have switched over the relays and checked the fuses, so I'm hoping it's something simple as we were meant to be selling it in January for a larger 4x4.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I may also be looking for someone to do the work on my driveway if there is anyone in the North Midlands/cheshire that offers this service.

Do you have the SKIS light on the cluster ON all the time or Flashing at you?
Early Export CRDs like mine have an amber "Key" Icon light up when you turn on the ignition and it goes out after a few seconds. If it flashes at you it normally means that you can start it and it runs for a few seconds then cuts out. If it is ON constantly it will crank but not fire. Later CRDs have a RED LED on the left of the cluster for the SKIS system and not a Key symbol. Best to try another chipped key and swap out the ASD relay as this is involved here. You can pull out the ASD relay and briefly jumper pins 30 and 87 together inside the relay socket to see if it fires....if it does fire then either the wiring to the ASD relay is bad or something else is preventing the ASD relay from energizing.....the ASD relay is energized by the ECM if the ECM is happy with the chipped key, is happy with cam and crank pulses and a few other things.

You can put some clear tubing in line with the fuel filter to see if there is air in the line and that fuel is moving ie. not a blocked fuel filter.
What type of fuel head do you have? The early Export CRDS have a different Racor head to the ones that are fitted to the USA models.

If it has the Nylon screw top that you unscrew and lift up and pump a bit you may have a 10mm brass bolt on the side...you need to pump up pressure and then briefly open the brass bolt to release air and water...tighten it up and repeat.

Otherwise you need to pull codes out and then think of replacing the cam sensor and the crank sensor with OEM parts only.

Billwill · **Posted:** Mon Aug 10, 2015 5:04 am

shirschi wrote:

I am still having problems. The CRD hasn't moved under its own power for 3 weeks. I talked with the local dealer, convinced me to change out tank unit. He said "there is a boost pump that wears out." I pointed out that the tech manual specifically says no boost pump. I still bit for $180 USD. (Very much shame on me.) After every thing was hooked up no start. I re-bled the fueline. Got a start then tried again no, start. Cleaned the MAF tapped on the fuel selenoid tried once more, started and has for about ten or twelve tries. Can the fuel selenoid stick and shut fuel off to the injectors? Once running it runs very smooth. Fuel pump pulling 3.6 psi.

Thanks

The fact that you initially had success by swapping out the ASD relay would indicate to me that there is still a problem in that area...ie. bad connections to the ASD relay or inside the relay socket itself. Remove the ASD relay and have a good look at the female pins inside the socket....these have a "barb" on them to prevent them being pushed back into the socket...make sure none of the pins have been pushed back as the barb can break off or fold over. Then clean the inside of the female pins with a thin section of sandpaper and slightly squueze the curved over sections together...the pins can open outwards and make bad contact with the male pins.

You can carefully open up the ASD relay or a spare relay and visualy see if it energizes properly while you are cranking the engine over. :wink:

Cos · **Joined:** Sun Aug 09, 2015 1:00 pm **Posts:** 2

Billwill wrote:

Cos wrote:

Hi guys.

I'm a newbie here and am having a very similar problem as the thread owner here. My jeep is a Liberty cherokee 2004 2.8 crd limited.

I'm pretty sure that it's not the battery as it was changed about 4 months ago and it cranks with plenty of power. Unfortunately, that's all it does. No coughing, no spluttering just constant cranking.

However, what I did want to ask is if anyone on here has had the same problem and has ended up with spare parts that they changed but that didn't need changing. eg CPS AND CAM sensor etc

I'm not sure what the problem is with mine. There is plenty of fuel in the tank, fuel pressure is there, I have switched over the relays and checked the fuses, so I'm hoping it's something simple as we were meant to be selling it in January for a larger 4x4.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I may also be looking for someone to do the work on my driveway if there is anyone in the North Midlands/cheshire that offers this service.

Do you have the SKIS light on the cluster ON all the time or Flashing at you?
Early Export CRDs like mine have an amber "Key" Icon light up when you turn on the ignition and it goes out after a few seconds. If it flashes at you it normally means that you can start it and it runs for a few seconds then cuts out. If it is ON constantly it will crank but not fire. Later CRDs have a RED LED on the left of the cluster for the SKIS system and not a Key symbol. Best to try another chipped key and swap out the ASD relay as this is involved here. You can pull out the ASD relay and briefly jumper pins 30 and 87 together inside the relay socket to see if it fires....if it does fire then either the wiring to the ASD relay is bad or something else is preventing the ASD relay from energizing.....the ASD relay is energized by the ECM if the ECM is happy with the chipped key, is happy with cam and crank pulses and a few other things.

You can put some clear tubing in line with the fuel filter to see if there is air in the line and that fuel is moving ie. not a blocked fuel filter.
What type of fuel head do you have? The early Export CRDS have a different Racor head to the ones that are fitted to the USA models.

If it has the Nylon screw top that you unscrew and lift up and pump a bit you may have a 10mm brass bolt on the side...you need to pump up pressure and then briefly open the brass bolt to release air and water...tighten it up and repeat.

Otherwise you need to pull codes out and then think of replacing the cam sensor and the crank sensor with OEM parts only.

The car is not throwing any codes annoyingly. The fuel head is like the one you have described with the bolt on the side.

I have switched the asd relay but still nothing.

To be fair, I have been a little naughty. We have had the car for nearly 4 years and only done about 30000 miles in that time. It's only had minor services. Eg. Oil and filter. nothing else. So I'm beginning to wonder if this neglect has contributed to this problem?

Billwill · **Posted:** Wed Aug 12, 2015 11:19 am

Cos wrote:

Billwill wrote:

Cos wrote:

Hi guys.

I'm a newbie here and am having a very similar problem as the thread owner here. My jeep is a Liberty cherokee 2004 2.8 crd limited.

I'm pretty sure that it's not the battery as it was changed about 4 months ago and it cranks with plenty of power. Unfortunately, that's all it does. No coughing, no spluttering just constant cranking.

However, what I did want to ask is if anyone on here has had the same problem and has ended up with spare parts that they changed but that didn't need changing. eg CPS AND CAM sensor etc

I'm not sure what the problem is with mine. There is plenty of fuel in the tank, fuel pressure is there, I have switched over the relays and checked the fuses, so I'm hoping it's something simple as we were meant to be selling it in January for a larger 4x4.

Any help would be much appreciated.

I may also be looking for someone to do the work on my driveway if there is anyone in the North Midlands/cheshire that offers this service.

Do you have the SKIS light on the cluster ON all the time or Flashing at you?
Early Export CRDs like mine have an amber "Key" Icon light up when you turn on the ignition and it goes out after a few seconds. If it flashes at you it normally means that you can start it and it runs for a few seconds then cuts out. If it is ON constantly it will crank but not fire. Later CRDs have a RED LED on the left of the cluster for the SKIS system and not a Key symbol. Best to try another chipped key and swap out the ASD relay as this is involved here. You can pull out the ASD relay and briefly jumper pins 30 and 87 together inside the relay socket to see if it fires....if it does fire then either the wiring to the ASD relay is bad or something else is preventing the ASD relay from energizing.....the ASD relay is energized by the ECM if the ECM is happy with the chipped key, is happy with cam and crank pulses and a few other things.

You can put some clear tubing in line with the fuel filter to see if there is air in the line and that fuel is moving ie. not a blocked fuel filter.
What type of fuel head do you have? The early Export CRDS have a different Racor head to the ones that are fitted to the USA models.

If it has the Nylon screw top that you unscrew and lift up and pump a bit you may have a 10mm brass bolt on the side...you need to pump up pressure and then briefly open the brass bolt to release air and water...tighten it up and repeat.

Otherwise you need to pull codes out and then think of replacing the cam sensor and the crank sensor with OEM parts only.

The car is not throwing any codes annoyingly. The fuel head is like the one you have described with the bolt on the side.

I have switched the asd relay but still nothing.

To be fair, I have been a little naughty. We have had the car for nearly 4 years and only done about 30000 miles in that time. It's only had minor services. Eg. Oil and filter. nothing else. So I'm beginning to wonder if this neglect has contributed to this problem?

The only problem with the Jeep not being used much is that the diesel inside the tank can grow all sorts of fungus inside the tank which blocks the fuel pickup, the fuel lines and the fuel filter. Also connector pins can get corroded...disconnect the battery and unplug and re-plug the connectors on the ECU a few times to get better contact.

Also check when the timing belt was last changed....100,000 miles or less than 6 years old. I had my belt replaced recently although it had only done about 35,000 kms since the previous belt change but the belt itself was coming up for 7 years old.

Fuel blockage problems do not throw any codes usually hence why I suggested a section of clear tubing near the fuel head to see if the fuel is flowing. Otherwise cam or crank sensor?

As stated in other posts here, the engine may crank well but the drop in voltage while cranking may cause the ECU to not have enough voltage to perform its functions. You need to put a Voltmeter over the battery...should show about 12.5 volts with engine OFF, should not drop below about 10 volts while cranking and should show about 13.5 volts while at idle....which you will not have obviously.

shirschi1 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:58 pm **Posts:** 8

Centuries ago we added PRIST to jet fuel to retard microorganism growth. Is there a similar product for diesel?

CRD hasn't failed to start for several days. I suspect a clogged in-tank fuel filter. Could this be correct?

I will check relay.contacts

Billwill · **Posted:** Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:47 am

shirschi1 wrote:

Centuries ago we added PRIST to jet fuel to retard microorganism growth. Is there a similar product for diesel?

CRD hasn't failed to start for several days. I suspect a clogged in-tank fuel filter. Could this be correct?

I will check relay.contacts

So is the CRD now starting but intermittantly does not?

Unless I missed it somewhere I have not seen if you have removed the filter head mounting bracket and checked the cabling in that area....LHD 2006 CRD has a known problem that the harness there can be crimped to chassis which can cause all sorts of faults.

shirschi1 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 10, 2015 1:58 pm **Posts:** 8

The wiring harness is free. I can't see any evidence of a pinched harness. The problem does seen like a broken wire.

It had a hard start episode in the hardware store parking lot. This time it would only run in the derated mode and idled very rough.

LMWatBullRun · **Posted:** Mon Aug 17, 2015 12:57 pm

shirschi1 wrote:

The wiring harness is free. I can't see any evidence of a pinched harness. The problem does seen like a broken wire.

It had a hard start episode in the hardware store parking lot. This time it would only run in the derated mode and idled very rough.

Does not take much fuel filter crud to cause starting problems....

Jeep Will Not Start

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