I don't know if your emission tests are more involved than here in the UK. Here removing a defective EGR valve can improve exhaust emissions during a test. (The EGR valve is not in operation during the test). I noticed that you can now purchase a painted black version of the weeks elbow. Possibly for camouflage so its not easily noticed by test engineer.

_________________
2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

LaCabrera,

It helps here too but not much on the emissions side. Our CA smoke test if pretty vague but the equipment checklist is very detailed! The emission techs say they get spot checked on the checklist(s) but never on the smoke tests. Basically on a 2006 they check for a check engine light, reasonable transient acceleration smoke and spend most of their time on the detailed emissions checklist. The FCV and EGR are the easiest to see and are near the top of the chk list the smog tech showed me.

Thanks for the feedback!
PanAmCRD

Basic emission smoke test here also but no equipment check list as far as I know. Possible equipment check list on the more modern diesels fitted with particle filters but even those owners cut open the box and remove the filters and weld it back up.

_________________
2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Thanks to everyone who has responded for all the great help!
Been busy cleaning the engine and tearing things apart to inspect them.

1) The turbo was definitely bad
Ordered a $400 turbo from the same company I have purchased OEM grade turbos before and you guys were right it was Chinese with bad instructions and a requirements that you manually re-oil the turbo if the vehicle sat more than 7 days w/o operation. So I purchased one from IDparts along with the appropriate gaskets to clean the FCV and 4 E-techno glow plugs, new fuel filter and a new MAP (it was cheap). Garrat arrives tomorrow!

2) Cleaned the FCV, Intake Arm & pulled the glow plugs. They were easier to pull than the threads led me to believe and were all in good shape except for cyl # 2 which had a fault code and was cracked looked like it was all there. The glow plug in cyl #2 was black all the others were white. All the codes I have had are from the turbo boost low, MAP and or Cyl 2 Glow plug.

Is there an easy way to remove the fuel injector from #2 cyl so I can check the cylinder with my 7mm odoscope? Most of the posts were looking for injector failures I just want to take a look at the inside of cylinder 2 to see if it is gunk ed up. since I already took the fuel filter head off I plan to sefoam the injectors by filling the fuel filter half way with sea foam and put the rest in the fuel intake hose.

Can I fill the fuel filter all the way with sea foam?
If I do, do I need to put the rest in the fuel intake hose?
A friend with a dodge Cummings recommended that as the easiest way.

3) Are there any easy tests I can do on my fuel injectors while I have #2 out to inspect the cylinder?
Is there a place in so cal that can test / clean them for me?

4) Looks like my chirping noise at idle Is from a bad alternator clutch.
I will get to that eventually but need to get the truck back on the road first.

Thanks,
PanAmCRD

Let me try and cover all of this...

Your injectors are fine if you don't have any codes for them. These injectors are extremely strong and are functionally the same as those from Cummins engines that flow 10 times the fuel and have orders of magnitude more hours on them. You can leave them alone.

I would suggest against Seafoam or any other product that claims to be for both gas and diesel engines. There are LOTS of reasons why this is a really bad idea. Power Service Diesel Kleen (silver bottle for summer, white bottle for winter) or a big tankful of bio-diesel is all you need to clean the engine. Fill the filter with it if you want, I do this when I put in a fresh filter on all my diesels. DieselKleen is great stuff, just stay away from any product that is "good for gasoline and diesel" b/c they are completely different engines. Stick with diesel-only products that are much more likely to work and not hurt anything. You cannot hurt anything by over-using dieselkleen.

Chances are extremely great that your cylinders are just fine, you can't really determine the condition just by looking at the plugs. The differences on the plugs only shows how the plugs themselves have been acting. All black just means that the plug hasn't been burning off the soot from itself, which is no surprise if it is cracked and you had a code b/c it was dead.

BTW, a 7mm scope won't fit through the 6mm injector hole. Sorry about that, but everything in there is black and oily anyway - most scopes can't see crap.

Chinese Turbos are worth what you pay for them - Next to nothing. Good for you in getting a Garrett, you will be very happy with that.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks for the reply and advice Geordi

1) Your right I had to switch to the 4mm fiber optic adapter for the camera and again as you said all I saw a lot of black. When I get things back together i will run the CVV hose puff test to tell me if I have rocker issues



2) I wondered about the sea foam. I will put some Power Service Diesel Kleen (silver bottle for summer) in the Filter and Tank.
How resilient are the CRD pumps and injectors to a good high quality bio diesel?

3) I did pull the injector for glow plug #2 (that failed). Pulled down the intake arm and replaced all 4 glow plugs with 7V etechno all 4 came out easily and I used a high quality high temp anti thread binder on the 4 I installed.

4) Removed & Cleaned the FCV, Intake arm & EGR tube. The EGR cross over pipe looks easy enough to pull off in the future I might put on one of the copper blockers. But not today Lots of oil from the blown turbo bearing in the Turbo Hoses and intake manifold so I plan to do a good cleaning after she is running again.

Has anyone here installed a water mist injector just ahead of the FCV. I have a friend with a Cummings that runs bio diesel and swears by how clean the mist injector keeps his engine? He runs a lot of Bio Diesel as well.

I am hoping this might help with general clean up of all that oil as well as long term goodness

5) Today I am Installing the Garrat Turbo. Took a little longer to get to this point than I wanted, but I would rather do things right than fast.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help!

PanAmCRD

Thanks Every One, My CRD is back on the Road!

Special Thanks to Geordi, LaCabrera, flash7210 & Sir Sam and everyone else who took the time to write up details and or give me their advice.

I still have one or two things to do and still have a little more black / brown smoke than I would like but it may take a few miles before that intake manifold gets fully cleaned up!

I might also try and test the turbo vane controller to make sure I am getting full turbo response under rapid acceleration. I did the finger test on the turbo vane vacuum mechanical link to make sure it actuated at startup; but I still get a puff of black smoke on heavy acceleration.

Thanks Again
PanAmCRD