I posted questions to viewtopic.php?f=98&p=725826#p725826 in CRD TECH ONLY, but wasn't getting any feedback, so I copied and pasted Geordi's original post below and deleted my post in CRD TECH ONLY.

Well, it is finally installed!

The first of two oil pressure gauges is installed in my CRD now, with the second one going onto Papaindigo's CRD tomorrow as part of the turbo install.

A couple quick observations of what you can expect from this install: NO DRILLING / TAPPING! Yes, that is correct, it has a threaded plug that you will need to extract, then you can use that port and just put it all together. The front port that I was hoping to use... Completely useless. You can see it, but there isn't really any way to get TO it without removing a LOT and most likely draining the cooling system. You will need an adapter to change the metric threads to 1/8" NPT, but after that, it is just a matter of installation.

What do you need to remove to install this in the furthest-back port? Surprisingly little.

Start off by removing the airbox and the two air hoses on the turbo, you will need the room. If you feel adventurous and have a long support, you might also want to remove the passenger-side hood strut. Slip some needle-nose pliers under the metal band on each end of the strut and gently pull out. It should lock in the open position, then just slide it off the bulb. Again - you will need the room, this is a long reach.

Unbolt the two support nuts on the coolant tank, and flip it upward toward the passenger fender. The goal is to never drain the cooling system, and I have managed to do all this with the bottle still attached and full. Hopefully your hoses will allow you to do the same. If you can, after removing the turbo's heat shield, you may want to move the water bottle over the top of the turbo and forward. Everything else you do will be behind the turbo, from the fender side, and it is really in the way there. The smaller hose on the passenger side of the bottle was the only one I needed to unhook (on another day) and re-route around the AC lines so the bottle can be more easily moved toward the front.

OK - Pull the turbo's top heat shield if you haven't already.
Unlock the clamp on the turbo downpipe, and let the pipe droop toward the fender and down as much as possible - you need it out of the way.
Reach down to the next heat shield, this one may or may not have a bolt into the bell housing, and it should have one pointing away from you just out of sight under the exhaust manifold. 10mm socket will pull that out, remove the heat shield.

Now your target is in sight!



This is a plug with a copper washer under it, and REALLY cranked tight. It is a 6mm hex, I would strongly suggest using a 3/8" socket-adapter hex to remove it. I got a metric kit at Home Depot for $12 with this size in it, worked great. Take the socket adapter and put it in WITHOUT any extensions on it, and using a 1/4" extension into the top of the socket (yes I know it will be too small) tap it HARD with a wrench or hammer - The hex on mine *felt* like it was correctly seated... And I nearly messed up the socket because it had gotten stuck on filth only about 1/8" in or so. Make sure that thing is IN THERE before you try to unlock it.

You WILL need a wobble head extension rod to get at it, and I would suggest at least 2 full 1-foot extensions to get the wrench out to the hood line so you have the leverage you will need. You may also need to do what I did, extending your socket handle using a cheater bar or large box wrench to get enough force. Once it cracks loose however, it should come right out without fuss.

Now, you have this image in front of you!




Set your self up with the adapter, and then some of the following parts:



Note the plug in those two images, you can discard that now.




These parts might be available at your local NAPA, but I also found them at Home Depot. This is basic brass 1/8" NPT stuff.

Here it is installed:



Now, the problem you may encounter if you are using the same adapter design we are - That hex on the base is 19mm or 3/4"... And is ***VERY*** close to the bell housing. So close that even a thin-wall socket will barely fit. I managed to get that adapter tight to the copper washer with a socket I had, but just barely. The problem is there is a protrusion on the bell housing that sticks right where you need the socket to be. Future versions of this adapter will hopefully address this by being milled smaller to an 18mm or 17mm socket size. You CANNOT tighten the brass and expect it to tighten the adapter onto the crush washer. I tried, and wasn't happy with the results, it wasn't tight enough.

Once the adapter is in, install the brass extension and the elbow you have chosen for your sensor. I used the 90 degree elbow, and this is what the final setup looks like:



I was not able to re-install my heat shield on this, because that sensor is so freakishly huge. Papaindigo's sensor is smaller, so we might be able to modify the shield and use it on his, but I'm not convinced of that yet. I realize that there is a lot of heat potential in that area, but at the same time... There isn't anything hazardous that will happen if the shield isn't there - The worst that will happen is that the sensor quits working. I'm not expecting that however. I had removed my forward heat shield which is a LOT closer to the thermostat housing several weeks ago, and nothing has happened there yet. Yes, I'm putting that forward shield back in tomorrow when I go for another look at this to check for leaking. Everything here has at least 2 inches of clearance to a heat source, so I think the setup will be fine. The hottest points are on the turbo anyway, which is further away.

Operating pressures - I would like to get a baseline recorded from anyone that does this, so people can confirm if their system is working normally. I have a fresh oil change, and with a warm engine, it is running about 35psi at 60mph, 40psi at 70mph, with idle at 20psi. Remember, this is measuring the pressure gallery that feeds the 4 cylinders and the turbo, so there are a lot of outlets for the pressure. I would like the numbers to be higher, but I think this is about right. I will be contacting VM on Monday for their opinion about these pressures... But at the same time, my CRD is running great, so these numbers must be correct.


From where did you purchase the M14 1.5 X 1/8" NPT adapter? I found the Autometer 2267 adapter on Amazon, but it is brass.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062 ... PDKIKX0DER

The adapter you used appears to be plated steel. I have a stainless steel 1/8" nipple and a stainless steel ELL than I can use. I prefer using steel or stainless steel in this service instead of brass.


This post is more than 3 years old. Is this location currently considered the best for an oil pressure sensor? If I understand correctly, measuring pressure at this point will likely represent the highest pressure in the system, not the lowest. Is there a better location that might better predict a failing turbo bearing? Is predicting turbo bearing failure the most important issue I should be concerned with?

I have been trying to make a decision on gauges. I have ISSPRO gauges in my 1998 Dodge Cummins 12 valve. The ISSPRO gauges are awesome. The are not cheap, but I think they are some of the best available at that price level. The Liberty doesn't have a space for individual gauges that doesn't obstruct view. My wife is short. She sits on a cushion when she drives to get a better view of the front corners of the Jeep. I was considering a Glowshift 3-in-1 diesel gauge to measure EGT (analog), boost (digital) and oil pressure (digital). The more feedback I read about Glowshift gauges, the less inclined I am to invest money in them. Based on the feedback I have read, they have a high failure rate and are not very accurate.

I am now considering using two McNally gauges - a gauge that displays EGT/boost and a gauge that displays oil pressure / temp (digital that can be used for trans oil temp, engine oil temp or coolant temp). I am hoping I can mount these two gauges on the dash in between the instrument cluster and the A-pillar without obstructing her view. The McNally gauges seem to popular with the VW TDI folks. Anyone here using McNally gauges?

http://www.mcnallyelectronics.com/

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.

I had the M14adapter machined from an OEM turbo supply line fitting but you can get that adapter and the other fittings in ss from McMaster Carr one might consider a braded ss line remote mount in lieu of having the OP sending unit direct mounted to the adapter. Still appears to be best place unless the plug that someone said is at frnt end of that gallery is easier to get to.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

I'd consider mounting the gauges on the top, where there is no visibility issue, if wife is short, unless she was finds looking up being annoying. Regarding glowshift, they are cheap, but knock on wood they still work for me. I considered already getting replacements if they fail, which is relatively easy unless the probe goes bad.

I would recommend using a temp oil gauge also, as pressure correlates to temperature directly. A sandwich plate would be the easiest way to install oil gauges, unless you guys use the jeep offroad a lot, since there is possible to rip off the probe wires with branches from the road.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I'm using McNally gauges. Boost/EGT and oil temp/pressure. I have the oil temp probe mounted in the tranny outlet to cooler line so I can get trans temp. I'm not too interested in engine oil temperature since it correlates so closely with coolant temp and oil pressure. You can pretty much guess what the oil temp is.

I would HIGHLY recommend not hard mounting a pressure sender on a pipe nipple to the engine block. It'll be there vibrating like a tuning fork and will crack and leak on you, or turn into a fountain of oil sprayed directly on your turbo. Use a flexible remote mount like this:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2301886
(Notice on the first page there's a guy who talks about finding a hard mounted sensor cracked)
or this:
http://www.maperformance.com/ams-remote ... -line.html

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I slightly disagree with the correlation between oil and coolant temp. As an example, noticed by me driving under various situations:
- driving 12 miles one way on Highway to and from work: summer oil temps: 180-190 degrees. Winter temps: 150-160 degrees. Coolant temp always one tick to the left (is that 205 or 210?)
- driving uphill on PA turnpike for extended time: oil temp reached 240 (not towing, just driving with 75mph), this while coolant temp was unchanged, one tick to the left.

The only important usage of an oil temp gauge, in my opinion, is when you see pressure drops, or pressure is too high, or to know when engine is under severe load.

On my Cherokee, without an oil cooler, the coolant temp does not go over 210 mark, but oil goes as high as 250, and it's common to drive with 220 oil temp.

Still, I believe the easiest is to attach a sandwich plate with ports between oil filter and engine.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

The point of choosing this location for the oil pressure was that it was the main gallery that feeds the pistons, the top of the engine, and the turbo all at the same time. In theory, a leak at any of those locations should show a pressure drop in the main gallery quite quickly, but I have started to wonder if it doesn't really matter because fluid pressure isn't compressible anyway - so pressure in the system may be the same everywhere. The only caveat to that is measuring close to the output of the pump (so near the existing factory location for the probe) where the pump volume could "make up for" a leak in the system and hide the pressure drop until it was too late.

Maybe a better location is that plug at the front of the engine, using a flexible high pressure hose, and bringing the sensor up to the top of the engine and mounting it next to an Amsoil bypass filter? Keeping the oil sparkling clean on this engine seems to also be a really good idea when the passages are so small at the critical areas.

I studied very well your previous posts about the location of the oil pressure probe. And, after having an exchange of im-s with ranger1, few years back, I decided to install a sandwich plate, for the same considerations you mentioned: a pressure drop should be almost instantaneous on both locations, since the oil passage is connected on the block to both. So, couple fractions of a second wouldn't really matter. But, for sake of peace of mind, everybody should install the probe wherever they desire. Plus, in my case, it was more feasible to just slap a sandwich plate and forget about pfte connections, hoses, etc. But then again, it's just personal preference.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I certainly agree - one of those Amsoil sandwich plates on the filter is a great option... Provided that the filter doesn't get pushed too far out of position and start becoming a risk of impacting debris or being hit when off-roading. Although, if you are doing any serious off roading, you should have skids anyway.

I am strongly considering fabbing up a way of attaching one of those bypass filters to my TDI Jetta in the near future. If I get the CRD running again, especially if I have to rebuild the bottom end, I will be looking at doing the same thing there too. I wonder if Amsoil or anyone else offers less than a 5 micron filter? For bypass work, it isn't about the speed of filtration, it is the quality. I need to do some more research on this area.

The problem with correlating the oil temp to the coolant temp is that the coolant temp gauge on the CRD is highly non linear. One tick can mean 10 degrees and another mean 20. I keep an eye on the pressure the most and I'm used to what it reads at certain rpms. I just watch for deviations from that.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

The only thing I don't know about the amsoil filter is how effective it will be, considering the fact that the crd doesn't run the oil too hot, so to really benefit of the better filtration is to heat up the oil to make it fluid so it will go through the filter. I say I don't know because I do not have the info about how fluid the oil needs to be to go through the filter in relation to the temperature and pressure.

Here is the data I recorded with turbo diesel truck Mobil 1:

Idling oil pressure / temp values:
50 psi @ 100 deg
40 psi @ 120
30 psi @ 140
25 psi @ 160
20 psi @ 180

For a race car, or a diesel that tows regularly heavy weights, with oil temps getting close to 300F, I can see that being a good option, but I don't have the data to state the effectiveness of such a filter for the crd. My honest opinion, and this is not a reply to your post, but just a general opinion about the additional filter benefits, I believe there are other more important mods to be done before this one. Regular and often oil changes with good quality oil are way more important than an additional, better filter, this considering the oil temps seldom go over 200 degrees under normal operation.

Oh, btw, in case you're interested in what I used:

http://prosportgauges.com/oil-filter-adaptor-plate.aspx

Get the 3/4 unf for jeep, It has 4 ports in it and comes with 4 1/8 npt plugs, and obviously you just need 2, one for pressure, one for temp.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

What I meant is that several tens of degrees in oil temp represent probably couple degrees in coolant temperature. And it's normal to be this way considering the physics of how fast an engine can transfer heat to the coolant.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Gotcha. You're right about that.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Thanks for all the replies. Sounds like the best two options are the oil filter plate (sandwich) or the oil plug at the rear of the oil gallery used by Geordi. I am using the larger WIX 51515XP oil filter. I may not have room for the plate, but I will check.

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2006 CRD Sport
GDE FT ECO tune, GDE TCM ECO tune, ARP studs, HDS-001 203F T-Stat, 3.7L nylon fan & Hayden 2905 clutch, Carter P76148M in-tank pump, Racor 245R122 filter head & 2 micron R25S fuel filter, Provent 200, Samcos, Fumoto F-102, Litens 920834A de-coupler, PML rear diff cover, OEM trans pan with welded in bung, JBA UCAs, full skids.