Complete engine install without pulling radiator?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 17, 2015 9:15 pm

Well, I've pulled a couple of engines out in pieces now, but I want to reinstall this one complete without pulling the radiator if possible. Just wondering if anyone has tried this? I loosened the mounts so I can push the radiator back about 2" if necessary. I'm wondering if I should hold off putting on the turbo, water pump, and a few other things to make install easier.

I really want to get those terrible drain bolts on the turbo installed outside of the jeep!

Oh, I'm dropping the transmission to swap it, so I won't have to thread the needle/ won't have the tranny in the way either :rockon:

Thanks for any wisdom :JEEPIN:

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 17, 2015 10:22 pm

That would be really tight, and I think impossible unless the hood was completely removed. I installed mine with the turbo in place. Just be careful not to bump the return tube. My engine was complete all the way through the time belt and cover. I waited on the front accessories until the engine was installed. Why are trying to keep the radiator in place?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:00 pm

Thanks Mike! I have the hood off (chain hoist from garage ceiling installs). But, I managed to not disconnect the AC, and I don't want to. I have mostly pulled the radiator, but it doesn't seem to be reasonable without pulling some AC lines :banghead:

Oh well. MAN they have the radiator wedged in there. On my daily driver I deleted all the AC crap, and the stock electric fan, so it's easy to pull :rockon:

Did you have the radiator out, and the transmission?

If anyone has successfully pulled the radiator without disrupting the AC lines, I'd like to know that it's possible :5SHOTS:

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:01 pm

x2, why not just remove the radiator. For the little more time it takes I would be sick if something with south and put a hole in it all while it could of been prevented

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 17, 2015 11:51 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Thanks Mike! I have the hood off (chain hoist from garage ceiling installs). But, I managed to not disconnect the AC, and I don't want to. I have mostly pulled the radiator, but it doesn't seem to be reasonable without pulling some AC lines :banghead:

Oh well. MAN they have the radiator wedged in there. On my daily driver I deleted all the AC crap, and the stock electric fan, so it's easy to pull :rockon:

Did you have the radiator out, and the transmission?

If anyone has successfully pulled the radiator without disrupting the AC lines, I'd like to know that it's possible :5SHOTS:

I had the whole front end apart. If the hood is in plave you need EVERY bit of that room to clear the oil pan (I may have been able to get more room if I disconnected the strong arms). If you can drop the thing straight in, it might work. I will say not having the AC compressor in place made dealing with the drivers side motor mount, torque converter bolts, and tarter bolts a lot easier.

FYI I used a flexible flex head ratcheting box wrench to tighten up those pesky upper engine/trans bolts. Works reasonably well. There's a pair of threaded holes in the cylinder head that an engine hoist plate attaches to. I used a couple of angle brackets, but ran into some trouble getting them out once the engine was in. If I ever have it out again, I'll make a flat plate with a couple of spacers that I'll just leave in place.

Mike

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Sep 18, 2015 12:46 am

jws84_02 wrote:

x2, why not just remove the radiator. For the little more time it takes I would be sick if something with south and put a hole in it all while it could of been prevented

I know what you're saying, but man, they really made it a pain. I started pulling the front clip, or whatever they call it, and then it required pulling the front bumper also. The whole front end has to come out as near as I can tell just to pull the radiator. Last time I did this it was easy, because I put a huge buck through the intercooler at 60 mph :jester:

All of the plastic that wasn't all over the road was easily removed :lol:

I also didn't have any AC stuff in the way :frankie:

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Sep 18, 2015 12:54 am

Mike92104 wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

Thanks Mike! I have the hood off (chain hoist from garage ceiling installs). But, I managed to not disconnect the AC, and I don't want to. I have mostly pulled the radiator, but it doesn't seem to be reasonable without pulling some AC lines :banghead:

Oh well. MAN they have the radiator wedged in there. On my daily driver I deleted all the AC crap, and the stock electric fan, so it's easy to pull :rockon:

Did you have the radiator out, and the transmission?

If anyone has successfully pulled the radiator without disrupting the AC lines, I'd like to know that it's possible :5SHOTS:

I had the whole front end apart. If the hood is in plave you need EVERY bit of that room to clear the oil pan (I may have been able to get more room if I disconnected the strong arms). If you can drop the thing straight in, it might work. I will say not having the AC compressor in place made dealing with the drivers side motor mount, torque converter bolts, and tarter bolts a lot easier.

FYI I used a flexible flex head ratcheting box wrench to tighten up those pesky upper engine/trans bolts. Works reasonably well. There's a pair of threaded holes in the cylinder head that an engine hoist plate attaches to. I used a couple of angle brackets, but ran into some trouble getting them out once the engine was in. If I ever have it out again, I'll make a flat plate with a couple of spacers that I'll just leave in place.

Mike

Alright, thanks again Mike. I just took a few more measurements and I think it is doable with the transmission out. I pulled the short block with the transmission and radiator in, and it is not a good idea!

pjigar · **Posted:** Fri Sep 18, 2015 12:56 am

Taking off front end including radiator is not that time consuming. You may add couple of hours. In fact, next time it will be even faster once you get a hang of it. I followed Sir Sam's timing belt install guide. Few things to watch:
* Don't loose the threaded inserts in inter cooler and radiator when removing
* Don't forget to put the rubber wind blocks back (I did!)
* Don't forget to connect fan harness connector, main headlight harness connector and/or turn signal harness connectors.

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:08 pm

I actually use dental floss now to hold the threaded inserts inside while I have the radiator and intercooler out. So what if I cut them putting it back in, guaranteed I won't lose them while they're in there.

I use Butterfly bandaids and write on the fat part to mark the injectors, cam position sensor, etc. as well (That one was my wife's idea, and I stole it shamelessly)

lars0247 · **Joined:** Sat Oct 12, 2013 12:09 am **Posts:** 98

Yes, based on my recent tranny swap, and head change out without removing the radiator, I'd say this would be not a problem. However, I think you will have to separate the trans from the motor to make this happen.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:23 pm

Hexus wrote:

I actually use dental floss now to hold the threaded inserts inside while I have the radiator and intercooler out. So what if I cut them putting it back in, guaranteed I won't lose them while they're in there.

Before you start work on the threaded inserts, before even loosening the screws, push a glob of black silicone into the pocket of each insert and let it cure. It will be right where you want it when it's time to reassemble.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Sat Sep 19, 2015 12:01 am

I forgot about those inserts, so hopefully I didn't cause myself a massive headache since I disassembled most of it early yesterday. Thanks for all of the advice! I will report back on how it goes. I think it can go in at about a 45 until the bell housing gets clear, and then I should have an extra inch or two at the radiator. I lucked out on this one since I happen to need to drop the transmission anyways. It was really tough to get the small block out with it in there, but I hadn't decided to swap the trans until later.

Complete engine install without pulling radiator?

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