Hello again folks. I apologize for the volume of questions I've had and I'm going attempt to give back again after this particular job by posting an after action review from the noob perspective. I've learned more about cars in general working on this thing than I'd ever known before.

There is a beautiful step by step guide by GDE on how to replace the passenger side (US) motor mount on the CRD. I got this done with little trouble. I bought both mounts because I have a 134k mile Jeep that seems to have lived a hard life and I figured I'd just do both at once. Then I came to the lower nut on the driver side motor mount. This thing is impossible to get to while still having enough torque to get it loose. I'm on the verge of starting to acquire exotic extensions and U-Joints or just giving up for the time being because I don't (yet) have vibrations when in reverse with the brake applied (I did have them in drive/forward). Is it worth the trouble of replacing now? Does anyone have any advice on the proper combination of extensions to get the nut out? I've looked everywhere to no avail .

Thank you for your help and advice,

Erik

wobble extension, and yes, you want to do both of them, and I think the transmission one also, so they last. Otherwise a bad one with be hard on the new one you just installed. There's a write up on adding some reinforcement to the transmission mount versus having to buy a new one, because they are expensive, and don't last very long.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

oooooh buddy lol. I'll know this truck inside and out by the time I'm done with her. I think you may be right with a 1/2" wobble extension and a big ol breaker bar. The only trans mount type thing I could find was the isolator that sort of mates to the cross member. Part # 52125450AC. Is this what you're referring to? After spending some time under the truck I really need to get it on a high lift and clean underneath it. Lots of dirt in my eyes and mouth lol.

Thanks again for the help. Ill let you know how it worked. Also in the AAR I'll try to write up the exact combo of tools that works and maybe some pictures but I doubt they'd make any sense.

Yup, that's the one. It's been a long time since I read about how to reinforce it, but if nothing else you can ask Papaindigo or Geordi about it, since I think it was one of them that came up with the fix. Beats paying over $100 for a mount that will fail in under another 100k miles...

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

So I found a write up with pictures by digging around in the forums. Ill post the link so that others that find this post but not that one can get to it. I will try this once i get all kinds of 1/2" extension and a 1/2" u joint.

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=77252

I will likely have to wait a little bit on the trans mount. I got my CRD real cheap (4500) but it's been plenty of work getting her back to my idea of good shape lol. An advantage is that I motorcycle commute regularly so it won't see a whole lot of miles stack up quickly.

PM geordi - I have a vague memory that he did something with the transmission mount but don't remember what and did not archive a copy.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

My opinion : get a new part. Patching is just this, patching... I got mine from moparpartsamerica online for 50-ish bucks, last year, but I couldn't find it anymore...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I got the driver side lower nut loose! Huge victory after the struggle lol. So whats needed is 1/2" drive breaker bar and ratchet, universal joint, 20ish inches of extension and a standard depth socket. you have to route the extension up the OUTBOARD side of the forward drive shaft as described in the guide i linked. But the guide also said you needed to put the front end on jack stands. I managed to loosen it without lifting the front end. It was SUPER tight quarters and obviously if your a larger guy and can't fit under the vehicle it won't work.

As for the trans mount, I took a look at what I could of it and it sorta looks..... worn out-ish. Ill probably replace it when I drop my trans pan for a fluid change. I'll probably do OEM parts, I have weird OCD about using OEM unless I'm trying to upgrade.

I may drive her down south a few hours to a buddy who has a full vehicle lift and trans oil catcher to do that.

On a side note. the litens alternator decoupler tool kit does not fit the pulley on my alternator oddly enough it fits the replacement pulley.... which probably means the wrong one is on now lol.

If you managed to untie the nut w/o lifting the jeep on jack stands you should have been a gynecologist, lol, since you can work in such tight spaces... Totally politically incorrect, but seriously, good job!

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I got it reassembled last night with the new motor mount. Good thing I pulled that mount. Its got loose material jiggling around in it like some others have posted.

Yeah I had to get pretty contortionist like to get it loose and probably more so to tighten it back up.