I don't generally post to forums, but today I'll make an exception. I have recently completed my install of an NSG370 in my '06 CRD and I have a couple of questions for everyone: Is anyone interested in the process and parts needed for the swap? Does anyone need any of the associated parts associated with the automatic drivetrain? I am putting the transmission, front driveshaft, mounts, lines, torque converter, flexplat, flex hub, etc. up for sale. If nobody here needs any of the parts, they will go on ebay. I'm just trying to offset the cost a little, so I'm flexible on price. Everything is serviceable and can be used. Let me know what everyone thinks or DM me if you have a specific part that you need. Have a good one.

Yes, post a how to if you can.
Where are you located, US or Europe?
Since none of the manual CRDs were sold in the US, I dont think the parts could be found around here.

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U.S. Army Retired

I am also very interested.

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

I know several people are interested in this. A how to would be much appreciated!

Thanks for posting

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

x4

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I would be interested in this but for the future when we get another car for her. My wife would kill me if I converted her daily driver to a 6 speed. I already straight piped, lifted and put an ARB on it so I am pushing my luck.

She can't complain too much through cause shes still averaging 26mpg's and diesel is cheaper than 85 octane here.

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2006 CRD - GTB2056 turbo by Dieselguy86, Eco Trans Tune, Lift Pump, Week's, HDS Tstat, Racor Filter, ARP's, OME 790's+Top Plate, JBA 2.5", JBA UCA, Moab's+265/75R16, ARB Bull Bar, 4.10's, TrueTracs

Where are you located? I kind of need a new transmission.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I'm in Illinois. And I thought you were the pioneer in this whole manual trans deal...

Anyhow, the trans is in good shape, just dirty at the moment. It ran through the gears well and has about 100k, I tend to wimp around in things that I'm not good at rebuilding.

To all of the interested parties, I'm in Illinois, not in Europe, and the parts are available. The swap can be relatively straight forward, but it's not all that cheap unless you get a donor 6-speed gasser at a great cost. The conversion requires the transmission, drive shafts, transmission mount/crossmember, brake booster mounting plate, rearend gears and interior bits, including the console and brake/clutch pedals. I didn't do it this way. I got a great deal on an NSG370, bought the DMF flywheel and clutch online, had my rear propshaft lengthened (the nsg is 3.5 inches shorter) and bought a front shaft for the 6-speed gas version, modified the transfer case shift bracket to mount to the t-case/transmission flange bolts, and bought the universal transmission mount for the NV3550 from Novak Adapters. I got the pedals and brake booster mounting plate from a salvage yard, but I still have the stock console. The stock center sits taller and interferes with the shifter, so I just modified it and made a boot to clean up the look. Keith and Matt at GDE have been handling the electronics, and that is just about sorted out. For gears, I decided to go with 2.94's, as it puts my cruising speed at 70mph at 1994rpm. I should have those installed this coming week, so that will be an update to be made. I'll have to keep out of 4WD for the time being, as nobody makes anything smaller than a 3.55 for the Dana 30a front diff, meaning a custom ring and pinion will need to be made. It took me 10 days of nights and weekends to complete everything. It's not hard, but there have been definite learning points. I'll try to get on here and do an extensive writeup soon, but I'm balls deep in finals this week and that, unfortunately, has to be priority. If anyone is already getting into one of these and has a question, just email me at christopher.j.kiel@gmail.com. Not sure if there are rules against putting up emails, but oh well, I guess.

Illinois? Where abouts? I'm about 100 miles south of Chicago and wouldn't mine taking a look at it in person

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump

I'm right across the river from St Louis.

That is so awesome. I've never owned a Liberty Diesel, but lately I've been seriously thinking of one and have been doing a lot of reading. I'm a long time manual driver and the auto was always something that held me back. I doubt I have the skills to pull off a swap, but hey I could dream.

Just curious, did you debate on using the (5spd) NV3500 vs the (6spd) NSG370 or was it just the NSG370 was what came along and you went with it? I would imagine for cheap gasser donors, the NV3500 is probably easier to find at a better price since it was in the 02-04 Liberty's and the NSG370 was in the 05-08, but 07 of course started a new body style that probably wouldn't help you with parts you would need for the swap?

Between the two transmissions, the NSG370 has a lower 1st gear which may not help the diesel, but it does have less gaps between all of the other the gears which probably helps keep the Diesel more in it's torque range without big jumps. The NV3500 does have an overall higher top gear, but it looks like you took care of that with the rear end change. I had a 98.5 24v Cummins with the 4500 5spd and that huge gap between 3rd & 4th gears got old using it around town. The NV5600 6spd had a much better spread and it was easier to keep the Diesel in it's torque band.

Would love to see a video of you driving it!

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2005 Liberty for sale - viewtopic.php?f=35&t=86570
05 Liberty CRD - GDE Eco/Hot Tune, ARP studs, Weeks EGR/FCV delete, Flowmaster DBX muffler, HDS Thermostat
00 VW Beetle TDI - Stock
11 Mini Cooper - Wife's
Motorcycles:: KTM 650 ADV (Katuki), 05 BMW 1200GS, 08 Yamaha WR250R

Too bad you didn't take some pics, that would have made a super great write-up. And despite being a bit weak, especially for a gde tuned crd, I think you won't have any issues if you don't go ninja with the jeep... I also prefer manual Trans all day long vs an auto.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Which torque converter is it? I may be interested in that.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD
Cleaned MAP sensor, ORM, ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII reader with Torque Pro, USA Spec PA-11CHR iPod adapter (used Aux input for Pandora!)
Awaiting install: EVIC, air cleaner hose, and Saikou Michi Catch Can (like a Provent)

Did you hear about the guy who was hooked on brake fluid?
He swears he can stop any time.

I previously drove a wrangler with the 3550 in it, it was a great transmission, but I just wanted to give the NSG a try. Even though I had friends with NSG's, I had never actually driven one. It was a complete leap of faith. So far it has been treating me well, but I'll admit that it's wholly useless with the stock 3.73 rearend, especially with stock tires. I'm still waiting for my 2.94's to get dropped off, so that will be the upcoming test.

Also, any NSG that bolts to a 3.7L engine will work for the swap. Mine actually came from a '07 Dodge Nitro. You really only need to be wary of any NSG variants that were used with the Wranglers, with either the 4.0, 3.8, or the pentastar.



I did take SOME pitures, but not near enough to be useful. I do plan on doing a writeup, but I just need to find the time to sit down and collect my thoughts, I'm currently in college and flight school so time is of short supply.



It's just the stock converter, around 100k that I know of, the drivetrain was replaced at around 25k due to serious failure. I've put 25k on this thing myself and it has had zero issues, no slips or shudders. I'll let it go cheap, if you need a new one or a backup.

I have a stock torque converter collecting dust in my garage, you may have it for free. Replaced it with a Suncoast at about 90k. But I guess shipping will kill you, that sucker is heavy. Unless you wanna get it in person from Cleveland...

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

I wonder if it would fit in the "if it fits it ships" boxes from the post office?

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD
Cleaned MAP sensor, ORM, ELM327 Bluetooth OBDII reader with Torque Pro, USA Spec PA-11CHR iPod adapter (used Aux input for Pandora!)
Awaiting install: EVIC, air cleaner hose, and Saikou Michi Catch Can (like a Provent)

Did you hear about the guy who was hooked on brake fluid?
He swears he can stop any time.

Don't think so. It's pretty big and fat.

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2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.

Do you find its an improvement compared to an auto. Being given the choose in Europe for auto or man and having owned both crd's I am still not sure if its an improvement over the auto. The NSG 370 is not one of the best manuals. But having said that its nice to have all that torque at the wheels and having the choice when to change gear. Did you keep the 242 transfer box?

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

Based on your signature block, you are very aware of the pros and cons of my decision...you also own my final vision for this piece of crap car. I would like to put on the Renegade frontend after this is all buttoned up. On to your question, I don't feel that there is any improvement to be made or that one is better than the other. I simply prefer a manual gearbox. The NSG may not be the best choice for this car, but it will do for my purposes, it's a daily driver, not a rock crawling, mud bogging, race car. Yes, I kept the 242 transfer case, although the only reason was the fact that I'm cheap.