Hello everyone!

I'm new to the forum and am in the process of purchasing a 2006 Liberty Sport CRD.

The pre-purchase inspection showed that it needs a new turbo charger and rack and pinion steering.

The turbo charger is my concern.

First off the cost to replace it at the dealership is super high. Secondly I am concerned about secondary damage to the engine.

So, lets start with the one that is more serious.

If the turbo charger has gone our but the engine runs and the dealership says that the engine is fine but the turbo charger needs to be replaced should I be worried about secondary damage to the engine?

Second, If I am going to replace the turbo charger should I upgrade, replace with original jeep parts or after market replacement parts. What should I expect to pay for a turbo charger replacement at a reputable shop? Should I do anything else as preventative maintenance while they have the turbo charger out?

Thanks,

Mark

_________________
2005 Liberty Limited CRD
Used as: On road driver
Purchased: 11/12/2015 w/93.5K
Miles on 12/31/2015: 95K
Mods: None (Yet!)

2006 Liberty Sport CRD
Planned usage: Off road expedition vehicle (once I add ALL the off road mods!!!)
Purchased: 11/23/2015 w/100K
Miles on 11/23/2015: 100K
Mods: None (Yet!)

Step back a moment. Precisely why does someone, apparently dealer, think the turbo needs replacement? If for example when the air box to turbo hose is removed there is little fore/aft play at the impeller and barely perceptible side to side play and no evidence fins scraping on housing then replacement is not likely needed. If its low boost codes there are several things other than turbo that cause low boost including split CAC hoses. If it's oil in the CAC hoses that's perfectly normal. I could go on.

In any case if in fact the turbo needs replacing the most inexpensive relatively reliable replacement is an OEM turbo from idparts (turbo, turbo to manifold gasket, feed line crush washers, drain line gasket and block push gasket, forget pinch nuts just use regular nuts and lock washers). Any decent tinkerer can handle this as a DIY job in an easy weekend just be sure to soak the turbo to exhaust manifold nuts overnight or longer with penetrating lube. If you get to this point email me for details.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Everything that Papaindigo said is 100% true, and the only thing I would add to it is this:

Are they selling it "as-is, needs repair" or are you capable of hearing the engine run and driving it? You can drive a car without power steering. It will suck (maybe it just has a leak?) but can be done. The CRD is basically undriveable without a functioning turbo however. You will not be able to exceed parking lot speeds, and will be fogging the vicinity with smoke because of the lack of boost.

If you are able to drive the CRD *at all* above about 15mph... Especially if the acceleration happens without huge clouds of smoke and in less than 5 seconds... Then the turbo is (most likely) not bad. Don't tell the seller that however, it can help you in your negotiations quite a lot.

Any decently handy person with a set of basic wrenches and sockets can swap the turbo in a weekend - and that is for a first-timer and going slow. The replacement turbo will cost you around $1100 from IDparts.com if you actually need it, and I have NO TRUST AT ALL in either a dealership's diagnosis abilities OR in any turbo that is priced less than $1000 - they are ALL Chinese knockoffs that will cost you double or more eventually. Buy a genuine Garrett if you need one and drive happy.

Where are you located? I would also be questioning if the timing belt has been done (or properly) and planning for that unless you can be shown proof that it is already done. The belts need to be replaced no later than 6 years, and all of them are now nearly double this age if they are still in service. Mileage no longer matters. If you need a qualified and experienced hand with your CRD, I am happy to assist.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Thanks!!!

Very Helpful.

I had a pre-purchase inspection done by a Jeep Dealership near the car lot that has it for sale. I have it under a sales contract contingent on the report and my approval of it. The seller also go the report I did.

It is drivable (according to the dealership) so that leads me to believe it's likely one of the other issues.

I am not a mechanic but I did rebuild a 1954 chevy 1/2 ton from the ground up so I expect most things that don't require a specialist or computers I can handle.

Thanks again and I will be using the website a lot as I am getting a CRD. Just maybe not this one. We will see.

Also, I am getting fairly complete service records from the jeep dealership (it happens to be the one that sold it new and serviced it for the last 10 years). I can't wait to get my hands on those!!!

Thanks,

Mark

_________________
2005 Liberty Limited CRD
Used as: On road driver
Purchased: 11/12/2015 w/93.5K
Miles on 12/31/2015: 95K
Mods: None (Yet!)

2006 Liberty Sport CRD
Planned usage: Off road expedition vehicle (once I add ALL the off road mods!!!)
Purchased: 11/23/2015 w/100K
Miles on 11/23/2015: 100K
Mods: None (Yet!)

Rebuilding a '54 pickup is a fine accomplishment.
But for a jeep liberty CRD you will need all the tools in your tool box plus a good code scanner.
And this forum

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

If they can drive it and have service records... And they aren't wanting your firstborn as payment, you may have a decent one right in front of you. If the price isn't stupid, I'd seriously consider it. The steering rack is a simple issue - not a CRD issue, just a Jeep / normal car issue. Not the worst to replace, and you don't need to waste money on dealership parts for anything - ESPECIALLY not a steering rack, because that is going to be a rebuilt component anyway. Napa / Autozone / Advance, etc... All buy from the same rebuilder, and so do the dealerships. You don't get to see anyone's molded-in name on the parts because they are selling to *everybody* so buy based on price and warranty... Just in case it was rebuilt poorly, which does happen.

Don't skimp on the timing belt service, if the dealer records don't list it... Or really even if they did - it is a $400 box of parts from IDparts and a long afternoon of carefully following directions (or 3 hours of watching me do it by memory with my eyes shut) and you have the satisfaction of knowing that your top end is safe.

You don't need a computer for most work on these, and the most important special tools only cost about $120 for the set - the timing pins and a good breaking bar. Everything else is knowledge from here and following directions.

If you wanted, I could also give it a once-over for you pre- or post- purchase, depending on where it is. I can also tell a lot just from a video of it idling while you stand front and center with the hood up.