Good day to all!

And thanks once again to Geordi for the visit last summer and help with the engine rebuild.

My wife drove the jeep to work left it parked all day. After work it started as usual. Went to the store when she tried to open the tailgate door, the glass opened but the door would not. she assumed she hit the lock button on the key fob. She put the groceries in started her up and drove home as normal. Arrived home the rear door would click like it was unlocking but would remain locked. It sat over night. The next day went to sart it and nothing but flashing lights and dinging bells. Not even a click.

When I turn the key to on the trouble lights cycled on dinging and then off then on then off. The rear tailgate clicked repeatedly, the rear glass door opened by itself.

Tested battery and voltage had dropped to 9volts. It is a brand new Optima red. Alternater is also a new high power ac/delco.

Tried jumping it with my cummins diesel. Nothing just crazy lights, dinging bells and the back door going crazy.

Tried to pull codes but the code reader wouldn't function and had the orange error light as well as the green and red all lit up.

once I got a little juice in the battery I pulled P0607 Glow plug module but nothing else.

A little back ground is that we have been having an issue with rough shifting throwing the P0700 communication error code and just got a new solenoid pack and a transgo kit for the transmission but have not installed yet. We have been just clearing it and driving.

I tested glow plug relay as well as the socket as per FSM all checks out OK. haven't followed out grounds yet as I wanted to throw this out the collective mind.

Searches of this forum and Google have come up mostly blank.

Any Ideas?

Thanks!

_________________
El Jefe de Biosmell,
at your service!

2005 Black CRD Limited (18,000) now 130000 miles, GDE Eco-tune, Geordi timing belt job, Weeks delete and ARP studs. New rockers, head gasket, water pump and Etecno 7v plugs while we were in there. 100% Biodiesel 100% of the time!
2001 Dodge 24 valve Forest Green, 6" lift, full Banks Power Kit.

P0700 is a code stored in the ECU that's just telling you that there is a stored tranny code of some sort. Only way to read tranny codes is dealer gear or equivalent.

I suspect you electric issue is directly related to the battery being low. Why is the battery low 1) bad battery even if brand new it could easily be bad so have load tested; 2) bad alternator have output tested and if it's ac/delco does it have the proper decoupler pulley clutch if not that could be a charging problem and will likely destroy your serpentine belt tensioner; or 3) something is "on" when the vehicle is parked that's draining the battery. I'll leave it to others who understand electrical systems better than me to weigh in on how to test for #3 as I delegate that type of work to my local auto electric shop as do most local dealers.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

1. Have the Battery and Alternator tested.
2. Check the wiring harness where it goes through the firewall, they are known to rub and cause all sorts of electrical chaos.
3. Change out the ASD relay and it's twin, inside the fuse box in your engine. They're about $8-12 each and can cause severe drainage issues with your battery.
4. Get that P0700 checked at a transmission shop, ASAP.

_________________
Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

The battery and Alt are good.

The P0700 has to do with the solenoid pack that I need to replace. Different issue but perhaps possibly related if having the code reader left plugged in may have done something.

I checked the fuses and realays and with my electrical meter as per the FSM and they all checked as good.

I have not followed the harness through the fire wall but checked the rest of the connections that I could get to so far.

I suspect the FCM/Gateway or even the main brain. ANyone know of anyway to bench test either of these?

_________________
El Jefe de Biosmell,
at your service!

2005 Black CRD Limited (18,000) now 130000 miles, GDE Eco-tune, Geordi timing belt job, Weeks delete and ARP studs. New rockers, head gasket, water pump and Etecno 7v plugs while we were in there. 100% Biodiesel 100% of the time!
2001 Dodge 24 valve Forest Green, 6" lift, full Banks Power Kit.

You definitely have something draining your battery or your battery is defective or the battery is not charging.
I suspect that you have a charging problem as you were able to start the vehicle and drive it home ie. you were running on battery power only.....your "red charge lamp" on the cluster may not be working.

Bad grounds do not cause a battery to lose power overnight.
Only the 2006 LHD CRD has problems with the harness behind the Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket.

You need to buy a digital multimeter if you do not have one already.

Charge the battery up to full strength with a charger until it shows about 12.5 volts....check if the Jeep starts and runs without the red charge light on and the battery reading should be around 13.5 volts with engine running.

If this is OK then something could be draining the battery overnight.
If there is a diode in the alternator that has gone short-circuit then power will flow back from the battery, through the bad diode to ground.

Install the battery but leave the red battery cable disconnected.
Set the multi meter to DC Amps...you will have to move the Red meter lead to the socket marked "DC AMPS".
Place the two leads of the meter in series with the Red Battery terminal ie. the current flows from the Red battery terminal through the meter to the Red battery cable...does not matter which way you connect the meter leads as a digital meter will show a minus sign if it is the wrong way around but will not cause any problems.

Do not start the vehicle...the high current will blow the fuse in the meter or blow up the meter.
With ignition OFF, Radio Off, doors closed, interior lights OFF, main lights OFF etc. you should be reading a current draw of around 30 mA ie. 30 thousands of an Amp while the Jeep is standing there as you would have it when parked overnight.

If it is drawing much more...say around a few amps then that is excess current draw...only the ECM, BCM, TCM, radio clock, alarm etc. should be drawing a little bit of current.

First dis-connect the large cable that connects to the alternator...that will isolate the alternator diodes....if the current shown being drawn by your meter suddenly drops down then there is a fault with the alternator....you sure you have the correct type of alternator?

You now have to pull out...and replace... fuses one by one from the panel inside the cabin and then from the box under the hood...when the current draw suddenly drops down to about 30 mA then that circuit is causing the problem.

You will then have to refer to a circuit diagram to trace what that fuse is supplying and trace the wiring to find why there is a high current draw.

I hope when you tried jumping starting with another battery you did not even briefly have the jump cables the wrong way around!

_________________
2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

Autel US 703 will read and clear tranny codes. Use mine many times a day to clear the MS solenoid and Temperature Sensor fault codes. US 703 is a discontinued line and I do not know the identity of the new equivalent.
John