Chinese turbo, swap asap or let it blow?

Efren_Hinojosa · **Joined:** Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:29 pm **Posts:** 42

Hello guys,
So i bought a liberty crd limited about 3 months ago with 90k miles. Runs super nice i fell in love as soon as i saw it and test drove it. Looked for oil leaks i saw none, looked clean.
Right away got a low boost code and a egr code. So anyway before i started driving the hell out of it i did oil/fuel filters with fresh oil, i removed cac lines to inspect found no tears. Now what i worry about every time i drive it is that during this inspection i discovered that my turbo does not say garrett. I googled the model turns out its a chinese 400 dollar turbo. it looks like it has been installed for a while (dirty) i ordered a new one should be here tomorow should i swap it right away or worry and just check on it?

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geordi · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 10:59 pm

Well - here is the option: Labor now when you can plan for it... Or labor later when you have no idea when or where it will happen.

If you choose to wait, you have the potential of whoever is driving it (you included) that misses the situation when it happens and the engine spends the next 30 seconds after failure, dutifully pumping out all your oil into the exhaust. The bottom end starves, the main bearings melt away, the rod bearings and wrist pins all starve for oil and do severe scoring to themselves, and at least one of the rod caps falls into the oil pan and the disconnected rod beats the cylinder walls to shrapnel and / or exits the side of the block through a newly-installed gaping hole in the cast iron.

The alternative... You pick a weekend, spend about 5 hours disassembling the side of your motor and cleaning everything at your own pace, drink down a few beers with friends while doing this, and end up with a new (used) Chinese doorstop.

thermorex · **Posted:** Thu Oct 22, 2015 11:15 pm

geordi wrote:

Well - here is the option: Labor now when you can plan for it... Or labor later when you have no idea when or where it will happen.

If you choose to wait, you have the potential of whoever is driving it (you included) that misses the situation when it happens and the engine spends the next 30 seconds after failure, dutifully pumping out all your oil into the exhaust. The bottom end starves, the main bearings melt away, the rod bearings and wrist pins all starve for oil and do severe scoring to themselves, and at least one of the rod caps falls into the oil pan and the disconnected rod beats the cylinder walls to shrapnel and / or exits the side of the block through a newly-installed gaping hole in the cast iron.

The alternative... You pick a weekend, spend about 5 hours disassembling the side of your motor and cleaning everything at your own pace, drink down a few beers with friends while doing this, and end up with a new (used) Chinese doorstop.

Lol. But I agree entirely...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:50 am

Hexus · **Posted:** Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:25 pm

I agree with this message, verbatim.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 25, 2015 2:54 pm

Efren_Hinojosa wrote:

Hello guys,
So i bought a liberty crd limited about 3 months ago with 90k miles. Runs super nice i fell in love as soon as i saw it and test drove it. Looked for oil leaks i saw none, looked clean.
Right away got a low boost code and a egr code. So anyway before i started driving the hell out of it i did oil/fuel filters with fresh oil, i removed cac lines to inspect found no tears. Now what i worry about every time i drive it is that during this inspection i discovered that my turbo does not say garrett. I googled the model turns out its a chinese 400 dollar turbo. it looks like it has been installed for a while (dirty) i ordered a new one should be here tomorow should i swap it right away or worry and just check on it?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk

With those two codes it's more likely that you have an egr system malfunction than a turbo malfunction. Those were the classic codes people got when either the egr valve or fcv was acting up. A GDE or homebrew tune may solve that by masking those errors and disabling the egr system. Do you have any driveability issues other than the codes? The previous owner may have been down the same path and erroneously replaced the turbo.

Efren_Hinojosa · **Joined:** Sat Jul 18, 2015 11:29 pm **Posts:** 42

I suspect egr as well. I do not suspect that the turbo is causing those two codes at all. What i am concerened about is the 300-400 dollar turbo blowing up.
While i do drive it i baby it like its going to break. I hardly ever rev engine to 2k rpm and always let it cool down before shut down, and i have already checked turbo twice. I dont know if those things will help but i have been doing it anyway.
New turbo was delivered friday will be going in soon.
What tune do you guys recomend? I know about gde but that is way too expensive for me.

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geordi · **Posted:** Sun Oct 25, 2015 10:57 pm

Funny enough, I will be in Chicago in a few days, and we can talk about tunes then if you'd like. I don't have any better deals on the great stuff that GDE offers - and I do still think they are the best option for tuning, but yes, they are steep. I'm offering basic options that eliminate the idiot light so you can install the intake elbow (highly suggested!) and get a little extra smile power from the happy pedal. Everyone rocking it is super happy at the moment!

Shoot me a PM if you are interested and we can work out the details. It looks like I will be up there right around the 31st. Did you have your timing belt done already?

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Oct 28, 2015 11:25 am

GDE is the best tune you can buy , BTW if you only need to shut off a mill error , go in tech section ECU FLASH or ask geordi that I think can well help you

Chinese turbo, swap asap or let it blow?

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