Just had a thought! It happens every now and then. Anyhow, a lot, maybe the majority of these engines have been run long term below the designed temp, right? I'm just thinking that this might have contributed to some of the premature wear on rockers (bearings too?). You get a lot more junk in the oil if you have less complete combustion right? Maybe this is less of a problem on diesels?
Just curious mostly

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

When I purchased my latest 2005 it came with many faults including a bad thermostat. I don't know how long it had been used in this condition and may have lead to premature bearing wear. I am convinced in my case poor maintenance, motor not running at its correct temperature, possible stuck open EGR contributed to its failings.

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2005 KJ RENAGADE 2.8 CRD 6 SPEED NP242 FULLTIME 4X4

yes , i did ask the same question and crd veterans replied , soot in oil is the killer. so is the excessive idle time , gde is working on high idle set up, so just a thought , when vm built this motor why they didn't install force lube system on top of cam lobes just to add extra lube at rocker roller, just like piston cooling jets , i think wood be beneficial to all of us.

The issue is more the forced oil system on the top end combined with the Afterthought-EGR valve putting back acidic garbage into the intake to be re-combusted. Not to mention the original spray pattern in the initial tuning which wastes a lot of fuel so the EGR has a purpose to begin with.

Yes, you should use your block heater when it's below 32 F, 0 C. ESPECIALLY if you do not have a tune which eliminates the EGR.

I would also strongly recommend 4500-5000 mile oil changes, at the MOST.

A lot of people experience failures because they run the CRD like a sports car, and it's tempting because it's torque-ey. I believe a lot of people use the wrong oil (expense) or the wrong coolant (expense or ignorance) and ruin these engines.

It doesn't help with the unforgiving EGR and other issues.

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Silver 2006 KJ 2.8L CRD Limited:
GDE ECO Tune / Fumoto Valve / E-Tecno GX3123 7v Glow Plugs / 2nd Gen Fuel Head / Mishimoto RED Hoses / Rockers/Lifters @ 114k / Hayden FC + 11 Blade Nylon / Sears P1 Battery / Transgo 45RFE-HD2 Reprogramming Kit / Timken Front Bearings

Thanks for the responses I am wondering how well the HDS stat will do in keeping us warmer in the winter up north, or if I should go for a higher idle like GDE is talking about? hmm, I better go comment over on that thread...

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete