Hi new to this forum. I get a shudder/vibration intermittently while driving no set speed it can be uphill downhill or on a flat if I lift off the gas it goes away. It might be 2km up the road before it does it again or 20 but I have noticed it happening more often and it is worse in full time 4wd. I have checked the uni joints in front and rear shafts neither appear to be sloppy. I'm open to ideas. Vehicle is a 2004 KJ 3.7 petrol auto

Ujoints can appear to be ok just by trying to move them when actually they are almost rusted up tight.
Also dod you check the rear boot / CV on the front driveshaft. Boot goes bad, water/ junk enters and destroys the CV.
Then also could be the intermediate shaft on the right side. It will go bad from wear and need to replace the right side CV and shaft.
The above is where I would start .
You don't mention how many miles, what transfer case ( maybe running a command trac on dry pavement is the issue)
Filling in more info may help us point you in the right direction

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Roughly 190000 km on the clock not sure what this is in miles 545RFE transmission and NV242 transfercase

I would start with the front driveshaft that is between the transmission and the transfercase. As Tom indicated, it is most likely the rear section where the cv is. They are one of the most common noise/vibe-makers on the lib. The bearings get 'grabby' causing noises/vibration, worse in 4wd. If this is what it is and you leave it longer, it will get more grabby and may make a 'clinking' or chain-jingling sound. It might grab hard also, making sudden thumps and banging noises if really bad. Check it out soon.

As a first step, just take it out (12 bolts I think), then drive in 2wd to see if it is gone. It doesn't harm the jeep to test drive it like this.

Good luck!

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03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

It says in the book to mark the ends of the shaft so they can go back on in the same position.

From what I've heard, this is rarely done as nobody reads the book until it's going back together. I think the bolts are 22' lbs of torque

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

Agree, I should have added this. Thanks jrsavoie.

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03 KJ Sport - black
4xGuard engine skid
235/85/16 Hankook ATM
OME 927/Ironman, 1/4" plate, 3-ring clevis 21.5"
OME 948/OME + 2 Iso's Rear 22"
JBA UCAs
Bumper and winch
2x5 rockers/steps
Dynomax Ultra-Flo Welded
Custom pinstriping
Custom rear interior shelf
SS drop table
Soon:
Rear bumper
WRX seats
All the skids

Ok well not the front shaft removed it and took it for a drive the shudder/ vibration is still there.

You ever figure this out ?

You ever figure this out ?

Yes it ended up being the tc unfortunately when the tc failed it also took the box with it. Lost 3rd gear only just got it reinstalled after rebuild all is good now

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Too bad it included the box on its failure. At least its all good now.

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2007 Jeep Wrangler JK 2dr 4x4 Rubicon

Yeah alls well that ends well

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