LISTEN TO THIS ENGINE RUN. WHAT'S THE PROBLEM WITH IT.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:28 pm

I purchased this dead CR hoping to bring it back to life.

Plans are to open the engine up tomorrow to see what's up.

Previous owner said that the CRD just began making a loud noise, checked fuel injectors and they all checked out fine. No air in fuel.

Listen to these sound bytes and let me know what you think the problem is.

http://s279.photobucket.com/user/CRD119 ... 1.mp4.html

http://s279.photobucket.com/user/CRD119 ... e.mp4.html

http://s279.photobucket.com/user/CRD119 ... 9.mp4.html

What do you all think the problem could be?

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 01, 2015 9:48 pm

busted rockers is my vote. I wouldn't start it again :dead:

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 01, 2015 10:13 pm

Such low res on the video, it could be rockers or it could be the bottom end.

You are going to have to take it apart no matter what, so I wouldn't start it again either. Good luck with it.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:08 pm

I'd say to stick a listening rod or whatever on the bottom end and all over to maybe get closer to the carnage, but you could drop a valve at any second, so not worth it :2cents:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 01, 2015 11:58 pm

To me, it sounds like the injectors are leaking compression past the seals.
But probably broken rockers too.
Doesnt really sound like a bottom end problem.

Good luck with it.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2015 12:54 am

I vote for rockers as well.

racertracer · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2015 7:53 am

Well, I am thinking that it is rockers and I am hoping that is all it is.

Brasher · **Joined:** Sat Mar 14, 2015 7:02 pm **Posts:** 80

I vote for rockers.

This is what mine sounded like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtPFcY1XUbQ&feature=youtu.be

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 3:38 am

Well, all the rockers and glow plugs are in good shape. I am assuming that the head hasn't been damaged either since the glow plugs are intact, but we'll know that soon.... the head is coming off.

This CRD has a segar (spelling) installed and I'm thinking that it may be an electrical problem that's causing the problem. I'm considering removing the Segar set up.

Where can I find instructions on how to remove the device and revert the CRD back to stock and start from from the beginning.

What else do I check for?

Any ideas on what else the problem could be, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:10 am

Try this thread viewtopic.php?t=23033

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:31 am

If the SEGR is just unplugged from its harness, that will disable the EGR valve, FCV, and MAF sensor.
You will get codes for all three but the engine should run just fine without the SEGR.

Check your injectors and injector holes to see if there is any evidence compression/combustion blowing past the seals.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 1:57 pm

That truly sounds mechanical, but air in fuel issues which plague this engine have been known to sound so similar that it's hard to tell at times.

If everything in the top end checks out, it might be really bad news.

Injector Blow-by sounds more like squealing or puffing/hissing (hard to describe in type apparently).

The crap sandwich of this whole ordeal is that if/when you remove the head, if you find nothing there, you have to re-install everything before you can check to see if it's an air-in-fuel issue.

The bottom end is strictly off limits to me, unless I have to.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 7:29 pm

In the video the audio compression is run way up - its hard to tell, could be a rod knock or something else.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:44 pm

Unfortunately, the bottom end problems sound just like the top end when rockers are bad. You may have yourself a bottom end issue if the top isn't giving you anything obvious.

Welcome to my world. I'm working on getting the engine pulled on mine, this will be CRD engine #3 with bottom end issues. The difference is I bought this one in this condition.

Hexus · **Posted:** Tue Dec 08, 2015 11:12 pm

If you would Jim, take lots of pictures of the bottom end. I know we're going to see some in the near future.

I just hit 170k on mine, so I know there's some nearing 250k.

Rixram · **Posted:** Wed Dec 09, 2015 12:51 pm

geordi wrote:

Such low res on the video, it could be rockers or it could be the bottom end.

You are going to have to take it apart no matter what, so I wouldn't start it again either. Good luck with it.

Geordi:
What would this engine sound like if the timing had slipped a notch?

Biosmell · **Joined:** Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:06 pm **Posts:** 32

It would sound exactly like mine did when my belt slipped (due to a shot pulley dropping the accessory belt on a hill...) before Geordi helped me fix it...

Geordi knows best but when you pull off the top rocker damage is obvious.

I used ID parts (company name) if you need you can get an entire engine from them. They know whats up as far as tech and they are nice.

I guess I should update my sig now that I am at 130 instead of 30!

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2015 2:34 am

Yours most likely slipped more than a single tooth. My experience is that there is somewhere around 1.5 teeth on the cams that you can be out and still OK (not break anything) but a full tooth on the crank is 2 teeth on the cams, and you are dangerously close to disaster.

Before anything breaks though, the difference in sound at idle should be negligible from a correctly running engine. Not much air or fuel is needed at idle to keep it running. Its when you try to put it under power, that the lack of proper airflow will show itself with extremely poor power output. Air isn't getting into or out of the cylinders correctly if either cam is a tooth out.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2015 12:19 pm

Well, if the OP can get away with some new pins, and main and rod bearings it shouldn't be so bad. Catching it before it threw a rod or ruined the crank could be the recipe for an inexpensive 're-bearing'. Oh, and grind the crank .010 only with any luck.

I wonder if an oil analysis could identify if incorrect oil wiped the bearings? If that's what has happened.

Rixram · **Posted:** Thu Dec 10, 2015 12:22 pm

Mountainman wrote:

Well, if the OP can get away with some new pins, and main and rod bearings it shouldn't be so bad. Catching it before it threw a rod or ruined the crank could be the recipe for an inexpensive 're-bearing'. Oh, and grind the crank .010 only with any luck.

I wonder if an oil analysis could identify if incorrect oil wiped the bearings? If that's what has happened.

Unfortunately, his vehicle has been sitting for 5 years, so an oil analysis would not be too accurate due to degradation of the oil.

LISTEN TO THIS ENGINE RUN. WHAT'S THE PROBLEM WITH IT.

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