If the rockers and glow plugs are in good shape, as stated above, then am I right to assume that the cylinder chamber is also in good shape and does not have internal damage?

Should I remove the head anyway? Would it uncover a probable cause or other clues?

Would its removal uncover anything out of the ordinary that could be causing the loud noises?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

At this stage, removing the head won't be helpful to diagnose anything, if the rockers and cams look fine and the engine is able to rotate smoothly by hand. Unfortunately, that means that the source of the problem is the other end of the rotating mass - the bottom end.

Time to pull the block.

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Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Well, looks like January will be interesting for me...

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

Can the oil pan be removed without removing the engine?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I do not think so. I do not think it can be maneuvered around the suspension & steering gear.

Geordi: confirm?

I suspect that this isn't a job I want to do on my back, anyway.

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"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

dupe

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Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

With respect, guys, if it were me, I think I'd take the injectors to a good injector shop and have them looked at. As Geordi himself reminded me this fall, injectors can get funky in less time than that. Besides, you probably want to do that anyway if they've sat for 5 years. Do the injectors first, is what I say. You lose nothing and maybe save a lot of work.

_________________
Grid power- the one true essential

2005 Liberty CRD- ARP studs, Fumoto, Hayden FC, inline Tstat, ETechno 7v GP, Platinum P1, in-tank lift pump.
1983 Volvo D24T
1981 Volvo D24
Dodge Cummins TD
Case 580B
Mitsubishi MT180 diesel
Kubota BX25 diesel

As far as I know or have heard - no, the pan cannot be removed without one hell of a fight... And the biggest reason is the balance shafts that fill up most of the pan space. I'm actually going to be having my own CRD engine pulled sometime in the next few weeks, because it has been tapping / banging too. I don't know if I have the knowledge (yet) to replace the bearings myself, but I plan to make the attempt anyway. I don't want to have the crank ground (or even removed) if I can help it, I want to have as little labor as possible to get it functional again. It will certainly be a LOT easier to do on a stand however, rather than on your back with the engine drooling all over you. YUCK.

As far as checking the injectors - I don't remember telling LMW that they can go bad (of course I know that it is possible) but I haven't heard of any that were seriously damaged just from sitting - Physical damage (valve damage) or really poor fuel choices can certainly trash them though. But these seem to be a fairly robust part of the engine. If you can't isolate the problem to an injector by swapping them around and having the problem move with them... Then I'd be hesitant to spend the $250 or so to have them all checked just for the fun of it.

I mean no disrespect either, but my silver one had no injector issues after having sat 5 years.

_________________
"Gunner": 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited CRD GDE ECO tune Bought 01Apr16 (71K miles)


If you're in New England and need your KJ TB done, PM me.

Retired:
Tractor: Dark Khaki '06 CRD Sport, GDE ECO & Trans Tunes, 2.5" lift + 245/75r16. - Sold 27Apr16
Ghost: Silver '06 KJ CRD Limited, bunch of goodies done - Sold 18Apr16

Larry, I'll take your suggestion and have them inspected for sure.

_________________
2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

my guess , its time to take it a part top end cylinder head and inspect everting properly rockers, cyl head, pistons , rods etc , in this video i can hear compression back pressure back through intake , as far as injector health check that is a very important step but after engine is taken a part , note , when injector start seizing it makes lots of smoke , misfires ,engine shakes , bad vibration , (almost wants to rotate backwards) if your idea is to fix it properly then ,should be taken a part ,

There is nothing to see on the top of the engine that will be helpful. You cannot determine anything about the pistons from the deck, you have to be underneath them to see anything. The only thing to inspect are the valves, and you can do that by simply looking at the valve stems and springs. If they are all at the same height, then they are fine. If there is a problem, the stem breaks, the valve drops, and the spring / stem rises. If the engine is capable of running at all and sounds smooth (except for the rhythmic tapping) then the injectors are most likely just fine.

But hey, what do I know - I've only been through this twice to the conclusion of the detonation of the motor, and a third time in progress where the problem cylinder (as determined by the misfire code) has not moved even as injectors have been shuffled and replaced. I had my injectors checked before, and wasted that money. I tore the engine down to the pistons twice, couldn't find anything wrong... Until the rod end was shoved through the wall of the block.

The problem is on the bottom end. Rod bolts are backing out because of loosened tolerances in the bearing shells (or some other cause) and it becomes a self-sustaining process until the rod is uncoupled from the crankshaft completely, or fails violently.

GEORDY you are right this engine makes serious noise it could be bottom end but of course need to start from top first , idea is at this stage when these engines start making noise for what ever reason is not to run it and wait to blow up , it needs attention (dissassembly)

OK so the top end looks to be in good shape, the problem isn't there.

I am seriously thinking that I missed a step before moving forward with the dis assembly,

The previous owner said that he had the injectors checked and they checked out to be OK.

But when RixRam removed them there was a lot of stuck on crud on them.

This is odd I thought considering that the injectors were recently cleaned and checked by an injector repair house who would have thoroughly cleaned them..... I will get them inspected and make sure.

I would like to test the Bosch PS3 also... is there a way to test the pump while the engine is apart?

Also, this vehicle has had a lot of electrical modifications, I am thinking that the ECU may need to be tested also. how do I go about testing the ECU while it is not connected to the CRD?

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"