Only change one part at a time when troubleshooting.............and remember this, when troubleshooting engines, always cover the basics. Compression and fuel pressure must be present before doing anything else.

FYI-The old "look through the oil fill at the intake cam" doesn't always work. Mine was still spinning the intake cam but the exhaust camshaft had sheared all of it's rocker arms and wasn't spinning all the time (belt was slipping over the cogs).

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2020 Ram 1500 CC Ecodiesel Limited
1995 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins, 47RH, Reg Cab
2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth! (Sold)
2006 Liberty CRD....The Moose Hit

well if he wants to see rotation of the exhaust cam he can pull timing plug and give a old look too

Well I seriously doubt there something as catastrophic as a camshaft shearing off occurred. But one other idea did come to mind. Wondering if it is possible for the pulley/drive on the CP3 to come loose and not rotate the pump shaft. Looking at the pictures of the pump input shaft online and it appears to be a tapered shaft - press fit I presume? I cannot see any key on the shaft that would positively engage the shaft. Has anyone replaced the pump and had to deal with changing over the pulley? Thoughts on the odds of it coming loose enough to stop rotating the shaft (reliably) but staying enough in place that it is holding the pulley in place (and thus the belt is still there and rotating)?

Again, remember that the belt was changed about 1k miles ago. So not many miles since that area was opened up by the dealer. But then again. if they were just changing the belt (and water pump), why would they have messed with the CP3 drive pulley? Presumably it should still be assembled from when the factory/supplier put it together.


EDIT - scrap that. Just found some more pics of the Bosch pump online. And there is a key way that engages/drives the pulley. So it doesn't appear it would be possible for it to be spinning on the shaft. Not unless the key sheared off.

Last post from me; If you don't 100% verify the basics on any engine during diagnosis, i.e. spark, compression, fuel pressure etc.........no amount of guessing or throwing parts will make it run. The basics must be 100% correct or the engine will not run. Good luck

_________________
2020 Ram 1500 CC Ecodiesel Limited
1995 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 Cummins, 47RH, Reg Cab
2005 Liberty CRD,fixed the rockers and a couple more things,GDE Hot tune,Weeks Stage 1 and 2 EGR delete,Hot Diesel solutions Tstat assembly(wonderful heat!), ARP studs, OME 1.5" lift.....thanks Seth! (Sold)
2006 Liberty CRD....The Moose Hit

Talked to the guys at Oregon Fuel. They don't think the fuel quantity solenoid is the culprit. They want to know what the ECM is reading/sending to make further decisions on the root cause. Decided to order a OBDLink MX Bluetooth Scan Tool with the premium software. Will be digging in later this week after it arrives.

Here's the latest. I downloaded the OBDII software, connected to the Jeep and pulled down the codes. Wow, my handheld scanner said there were none -

P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and/or its circuit is too high, indicating a fuel pressure condition that is abnormally high
P02295 Fuel Pressure Regulator 2 Control Circuit Low
P0091 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low 
P0489 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit Low
P0047 Turbo/Super Charger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Low
P1251 VACUUM RESERVOIR SOLENOID SHORT TO GROUND
P2141 EGR AIR FLOW CONTROL VALVE SHORT TO GROUND
P0670 GLOW PLUG CONTROLLER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION
P1140 Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid Circuit Condition, Vacuum Reservoir Solenoid harness is open or shorted
P0090 Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit
P0093 Fuel System Leak Detected - Large Leak
P0183 Fuel Temperature Sensor A Circuit High


I am thinking short to ground somewhere? Anyone have any thoughts or places to start? Does this string of sensors happen to run a a single branch of wiring that will help me know where to possibly start?

PS - the last code (P0183) is because I had the sensor unplugged.

Some of those codes are old and/or related to you diagnostic process.
Clear them, turn the key off, then key on and try to start.
Critical faults should pop up immediately when you scan for codes again.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

on the 06 they moved a wiring bundle behind the fuel head to put in an ESC pump
that area has caused electrical problems for others.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Probably fuel pressure solenoid, or its wires. It probably did get damaged. Unless the codes clear for it and don't return.

But, like Flash said, let us know what codes pop up right away after they are cleared. If you can find a complete fuel rail with sensors for cheap on ebay then they are super handy to have for checking the expensive and one time use pressure solenoid.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

I cleared the codes. Cranked the engine. Rechecked the codes. The only one that came back was the fuel temp sensor (P0183) - that connector is still not plugged back in.


Now I am stumped. Took a snapshot of the data log during crank. Will post photo.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Fuel rail pressure is maxing at 650kPa (~100psi). Clearly that is way too low to fire, correct?

I dont know exactly what rail pressure is supposed to be while cranking but I think it should be at least 1000psi. Rail pressure at idle is about 5000psi.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

100 isn't enough to spit with - the pressure sensor on the back of the rail isn't being told to close off, so it is dumping the pressure.

Is it plugged in? Have you (at any point) unplugged that sensor and the #4 injector at the same time? Here is how you know which cable is which, since these two both have the same connector: Sensors play nice together, injectors work alone. The 3 wires coming out of the back of the plastic cover of the loom are for the two sensors (cam and fuel rail) and the #4 injector. Two of them will be taped together at the base by the loom. These are the sensor wires. The one by itself is the injector.

If you have them backwards, you won't ever get it to start.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I haven't ever had them off, either of them. But I am still wondering if somehow the connector got damaged during the engine mount change (jacking the engine up and against the firewall). I have inspected it and it looks fine. But honestly I cannot seem to get it off the sensor. It is so close to the firewall I cannot get my hand/fingers on it to release the catch and pull it off. Will have to try again.

Here's the latest - the frustration continues. I did get the fuel pressure solenoid connector off the sensor/rail. Connector looked fine. Took the extra step of pulling the connector off the ECM and confirmed continuity between sensor connector and ECM connector. No issues. I also checked the sensor connector wiring for continuity to ground. No issues.

I also installed a new fuel filter head. This Jeep already had the new style installed, but I have heard of the new styles failing and causing air leaks. Just so happened that the dealer in town had one of the new styles in stock. Spent the $125 and installed it. No change - still no start.

The pump is pulling fuel through the filter, but I am still fighting air coming in somewhere. I prime it and fill the clear tube with fuel, but then during cranking the pump pulls the fuel out of the line, but only draws air behind it. I am assuming the tank connections must be leaking air?

Just to see if air was the reason for the no start, I rigged up a gravity feed system to the CP3. I went through an entire quart of power service with no start and still no pressure in the rail. The pump is pulling the fuel in and its going somewhere. I assume the pressure regulator on the rail must be just dumping the fuel back to the tank.

How does the pressure regulator in the rail work? Does it require ECM command to hold pressure? Or is the normal (no power) state the 'hold pressure' state? Is there any way to test this part - or override it?

It's open in the normal state. I think it's an electromagnetic solenoid, and my guess is that you put enough pressure on it to damage it internally. Another good place to get a complete rail for cheap might be a junkyard. I bet you could walk out with a complete rail for $50-$100, which is less than a new solenoid. If you just swap in a new one, and it's not the problem, you just wasted the $$. With an extra rail, you could always throw it on ebay to get your money back, or maybe even a profit.

Yup, you probably need to drop the tank, and eliminate the quick connect on the side that feeds the pump with an 18" piece of diesel rated fuel line, and two hose clamps. The return line can be left with the quick connect.

Maybe someone near you has a fuel rail that you could borrow?

I think you already posted it, but where are you at? Might be helpful to add your location, as you might find a volunteer that way.

Oh, with more cranking did any other codes come back?

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Before you go replacing the rail pressure solenoid, disconnect the hard fuel line that connects to the fuel rail. Crank the motor to see if fuel comes out.
If no fuel, then the CP3 is not pumping fuel up to the rail.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Pulled the 19mm nut off the main feed line to the front end of the rail. Pulled the metal line back a hair. Crank, there is virtually nothing coming out of the main feed to the rail. Like maybe a drop or 2.


Talked to Oregon Fuel, and then ran a few more diagnostics. Unplugged the fuel rail pressure regulator which should them default to max pressure. Crank, no change - 100psi. Pulled the low pressure return hose that comes off the end of the rail. Crank, no fuel coming out of the return. Pulled the low pressure return off the end of the #4 injector. Crank, no fuel coming out of the return.

Last check. Pulled the low pressure return hose from the CP3 - the hose that runs excess fuel back to the plastic manifold where the injectors & rail all come together and head back to the tank on a single line. Crank - whoah! That's where all of the fuel is going. During crank the pump is pushing a gusher of fuel right back to the tank. No wonder nothing is going to the rail and no pressure is being built.

Talked to Oregon again. Its either a catastrophic failure of the CP3 internals or the fuel quantity solenoid is stuck/bad. I am hoping for the latter since the solenoid is only $160 and easier to replace. Part is ordered and should be here mid-week next week.

Has anyone changed one of these? How difficult was the job?


Thanks.

Replacing the fuel quantity solenoid is difficult but not impossible.
Its three torx screws that you cant see. Just have to feel for them.
Use a t20 screwdriver and be gentle. Its easy to strip the screws.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired