Status update. Got the new CP3 installed yesterday. Overall the most difficult part of the job was getting the pump out of the pump bracket. The nose of the pump is aluminum just like the bracket. And the nose has a fairly long machined nose that sticks through the bracket - almost a press fit, but not quite. In my case corrosion between the 2 aluminum surfaces made them nearly become one with each other. But finally got it out.

And in case it helps anyone doing this in the future, you don't need to worry about removing the timing belt and re-timing the engine. After doing some checking online, there is a special tool that holds the fuel pump pulley in place. I found some decent photos of the tool on eBay and then just made my own. You need to grab hold of the pulley through one of the access/puller holes and then attach it back to the timing cover. I used the idler pulley hole, which I think is where the special tool attaches. With the pulley secured to the timing cover nothing moves and the pulley and belt all stay in place. Then you just pull the old pump out and slide the new one in. I did mark the cam & crank sprockets and belt just to be extra careful. But overall not that big of a deal.

And I was able to get the timing belt tensioner adjusted properly. Made another make-shift tool to rotate the tensioner with the 2 pins.

So that was the good news. Now the bad news. Still crank and no start. I will say that now I am getting (more) fuel up to the rail. I can pull nut off the high pressure inlet pipe to the rail and during crank there is definitely fuel getting pumped into the rail. But still not building any pressure. Pulled the hose off the low pressure return (from the fuel pressure solenoid) to see if it was just dumping fuel back to the tank (and thus a bad fuel pressure solenoid). Nothing coming out. So where's all the fuel going?

I pulled the return off the top of all 4 injectors to look for bubbles. During crank there's no fuel coming out of the top of any injector and absolutely no air bubbles. There is some fuel in the injectors. When I pulled the return line off the top of the injectors each one spilled/splashed a little. And you can see fuel right up to the top of each injector. But again, during crank there are no air bubbles. If an injector was stuck open and presumably just dumping fuel into one of the cylinders, I understand you should see air bubbles - right? Isn't the theory that if an injector was stuck open it would dump fuel during the intake cycle (vacuum in the cylinder), but would relieve built up air pressure (bubbles up thru the fuel standing in the injector body) during the exhaust cycle (pressure in the cylinder)?

I am back to being stumped. I was rather confident the new CP3 would solve the problem. Not sure where to go next. Thoughts are -

1) Grab a new fuel rail off eBay
2) Pull the injectors and have them tested
3) Grab a new ECM off eBay


For #2 or #3, I read in the service manual that each injector is calibrated and must be coded, by cylinder, into the ECM. So if I have to replace any of the injectors and/or replace the ECM, reprogramming will be necessary. What are you thoughts on this?

Also, after 128k miles, how difficult is it going to be to pull the injectors. I saw in the service manual another special tool to help pull them out of the cylinder head. How often is this necessary? Do that get that stuck?

Any other thoughts? Again, I stumped as to where else to go next. If it is either an injector or the rail, I am struggling with those failures aligning with the way the Jeep initially quit. Recall that it was running great. Coming off a highway, coast down to a stop at the end of the ramp. Come to a stop, accelerate onto the cross road - go maybe 1/2 block and everything just goes dead. The engine completely dies and all of the cluster gauges go dead. No stumble, no coughing - nothing, just bang dead. Best analogy would be that you turned the key off. And it hasn't fired, coughed, choked or even shown any sign of life since. Cranks just fine. No strange noises. And I noted the compression is good when I was rolling the engine over to align the timing marks. Takes an 18in breaker bar and some real force to pull it through the compression strokes.

Any more help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

PS: I still haven't put the timing cover and accsry drive/belt back together yet. Not sure it makes sense until I understand what else I might need to tear into with this engine.

I would first try unplugging all 4 injectors, cracking open the #1 injector line, and cranking the engine to bleed any remaining air from the rail.
Then tighten up all the fuel lines, re connect the injectors, and see if it will start.

If still no start, then it seems likely that one or more injectors are stuck open.
If this is the case then one or more cylinders should be filling up with fuel.
You can then:
1. Pull the dipstick to see if your oil level has risen, and if oil smells like diesel
2. Unplug the injectors, remove the glow plugs, crank the engine to see if fuel comes out of the glow plug holes.
Or
3. Remove the injectors and look down into the cylinders to see if fuel is pooling on top of the pistons

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Thanks. Question. If there was fuel spilling into a cylinder would there be smoke out the exhaust during crank? And if so, how much and what color? I am seeing a very small amount (puff) of a grayish exhaust during cranking.

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If fuel is burning, then there would probably be some smoke.
The color and amount of smoke, i have no clue.

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if injector is a suspect (hydrolicly) losing pressure don't remove them yet , i thing you need to find old fuel line or someting to cap it at each injector to see which one is loosing pressure , call bosch fuel injection shop ask what they are using to cap rail to injector pipe , there is a tool CAP somewhere , i was looking for this tool too , i think cummins uses the same tool to cap there injectors . not sure but if you find old jumper fuel line it is possible to weld line end and use as test tool .

i just seen this special tool use to cap fuel rail available on ebay.

Started working through these steps. Did the first step, confirmed plenty of fuel flowing into the rail, bled out the air. Tightened the fuel line nut back down. Still no start. Looks like I am down to pulling the injectors.

I was able to find one online, but it says it is for the Dodge 5.9L or 6.7L. Does the 2.8L use the same fuel line size and thread/nut size on the rail?

http://www.toolsource.com/fuel-rail-dod ... 31376.html

Going through each injector and capping it off sounds easier that pulling the all of the injectors out. I noticed in the service manual it states that the injector seals, o-rings and bolts must be replaced each time an injector is removed. Is this really required?

For each injector reinstall you need a new "O" ring and crush washer. No need for new crowsfoot bolt but do not lose the dime size steel insert the foot resrs on

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When I do it I like to keep the #4 fuel line to make sure the rail gets full. How long are you cranking? It still takes awhile to fire even with a full rail and all the air bled out.

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im not 100% sure but cummins cap tool should work , yes and it is easier to cap them one at the time rather then disturb injectors . because you went thru lots of headaches so i say lets cap them first and see if rail pressure increases ,

Thanks for all the help. Really struggling with whether i should order the test cap and hope it fits or just pull all 4 injectors and have them tested/cleaned. No downside to having them tested and might be quicker if i can have it done locally (detroit area).

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ok just call northern diesel fuel injection in sterling heights michigan , 43755 utica rd . ask for Jack he is the super guy and BOSCH specialist please give him a call on monday

Thanks. That was exactly the company I pulled up with my search of shops in the area.

Assuming I need at least one new injector, where have you guys found the best price & quality. Came across this site and they are the cheapest at $329. Oregon Fuel is at $379 and you have to purchase the o-ring and chamber gasket separately (shopinjectors gives you the o-ring & gasket). The shop injectors website appears to be selling Bostech reman injectors. They are located in SC. Any feedback on their quality?


http://www.shopinjectors.com/diesel/jee ... 435128.htm

http://www.bostechfuel.com/index.php

Well I was able to get #1, #2 & #3 injectors out with no issue. #1 & #2 were dry and looked fine. I cannot budge #4 without a puller. But, looking at #3 I clearly now know where the fuel is going. And, I think I am looking at the imprint of a valve into the end of the injector, but can you guys please verify what I am seeing? Will post pics in the next post.

Injector#3







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What would the root cause be? Would skipping a tooth on the timing belt (remember the tensioner was really loose) cause this? I've read on here that the rockers go bad. Is that what I am facing?

Looks like you have internal damage based on the damage to the end of the no. 3 injector pictured. Looks to be a broke valve and the broken valve stem impacted the end of the injector.
To fully access the damage and needed repairs and parts, you will have to pull the head at this point!
Normally, I do not think the loss of a rocker or rockers would cause a broke valve to incur.. Out of time cam or cams could allow a piston to hit the valves...

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After posting the pictures I questioned myself on the root cause being timing. That shouldnt cause a piston or valve to contact the injector. Would it???

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