So, we just put together the JBA 2.5 inch lift, gotta still do the torquing of the bolts, putting on ARB front bumper...whew! And installed the Sasquatch EGR kit...one and two.

That said, this project hasn't been without problems, broken parts and lots of questions which I've been happy to have answered. We installed the Green Diesel software and the truck turned over without issue after having sat for over a two weeks. Amazing, but now we have a fuel injector return line broken off the top of the injector closest to the front of the Jeep. I've ordered the new part from IDparts.

My question is, there are small clips on each injector. Is that how they come off? Pull the clips and pull off the plastic part? Or twist and turn or some other special method?

Yup. Pull the clip and then the T or elbow (depends on which injector) lifts straight up. A small flat pick may be helpful in helping it get started coming out.

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Thank you for the help!! Very much appreciated!

Completed job today. No issue really. I used a small set of pliers and a pick with a rounded hook to make sure the clip didn't go flying.

They went in fairly easily though I did have to tap the new plastic tops in for the o ring to seat. I guess I could have lubed them up, but it didn't occur to me at the time.

Last point, the injector plastic piece closest to the firewall is difficult getting out as is its clip, but it will come out. ON the install, I put a piece of dental floss on the clip in case it spun off while I tried to put it in place. No problems though.

I like the idea of the dental floss, not bad.

Tapping them down into place is perfectly OK, I don't think lube would have helped b/c the fit is so tight to begin with.

For future reference or anyone finding this thread about the fuel return lines or the injector fuel tee (search bait)... DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE FUEL LINE FROM THE PLASTIC BLOCK that is on the side of the intake! Leave EVERYTHING connected to that plastic, and instead just unbolt it from the intake, move the snapring from the fuel rail, and PUSH the hose off the fuel rail. Now just tuck the thing out of the way with the injector line still attached.

You will be very sorry if you mess with that too much, the plastic is very brittle.

Fuel Return Block and it is anywhere from $130 to $74 online. I go through a warehouse dealer in Kansas so paid $74 plus shipping the thing out of a Minnesota warehouse to Kansas then to me as the warehouses will not dropship to the customer. I think my parts guy said that there were 5 left in the US in inventory right now.
Great advice on the process. Thank you!!!

Remember (for future searchers), that there are plenty of resources here that tell you how to actually make a sturdier part for a lot cheaper. I just needed it fast and did not want to mess with different line than factory and I need it right due to the trip its going on.

Here's what I do to remove the fuel return line/fitting from the top of the injectors. There is no need/reason to remove the spring c-clip from the injector. Just push it 'in' - that is, push it towards the injector until it bottoms out against the injector body. This releases the clip and you can pull the fitting out of the injector. And - here's the bonus, there is zero risk of losing the c-clip. I learned this is the recommended removal procedure, but I cannot seem to recall where I read it. I've gone back through the injector section of the SM, but cannot find it there. Hmmm, where did I read that? Doesn't matter.

Try it next time you have to pull one of the return lines. It works! That's the only way I do it now. I've gone chasing more than one of those darn c-clips after it went flying!

Are you saying push the clip in or the fitting? The "it" is confusing me.

If you push the clip in, how do you do that equally all around? Its open on one end so somehow you have to apply pressure equally all around I guess.

Take wide, flat screwdriver and push on the flat end of the c-clip. The part of the c-clip that you would normally pull to get it off the injector. In other words, like you are trying to over-install the clip. Push it past its normal 'lock' position. I will post a pic in a bit.

Here is a pic with the clip in its normal intalled position. Notice the 'legs' of the clip are situated to hold the fuel return fitting.



And now with the clip pushed in. The legs are disgaged. The fuel return fitting can be removed and the clip doesn't go flying.



Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Great tip.... trick.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"