I just replaced an outer tie rod end today with a greasable one from NAPA Chassis Parts. While removing the old outer tie rod the inner tie rod turned 2-3 times. I was holding the inner tie rod with vice grips while using a large cresent wrench to turn the outer, and I had a little trouble getting the vice grips tight enough to not allow the inner tie rod to turn. Now that I have everything buttoned back up I'm wondering if the inner tie rod turning was a bad thing. Does the Liberty inner tie rod have a jam nut and cup/ball and socket type end where it goes into the rack? I just want to make sure that I haven't loosened my inner tie rod and will be endangering myself and other drivers... I know that I will now need an alignment, but I am very close to correct; when I loosened the jam nut I turned it just enough to break free, and then marked its location with some tape around the inner tie rod. Just a few more questions..Why don't our inner tie rods have wrench flats? It would have made removing the outer ends much easier. Would it be safe to slide a couple of nuts over the inner tie rod and weld them into place, creating wrench flats? It would be cheaper than replacing the inner tie rod when I don't need too...
Thanks in advance for any answers to my questions.

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Black '05 Renegade. Front suspension: Frankenlift, Moog HD LBJ's, Audiboy cut CV's
Rear suspension: OME 948's, 2 extra upper ISO's, Rancho RS 5000 shocks.
31X10.50X15 Duratrac's/ProComp 152's
ARB bumper, Mopar skids, JCR stage III's, Reese hitch with tractor lights, Champion shackle insert, "homebrew" on board air, 1000 watt inverter

here are a couple of pictures of the inner tie rod
( without the boot on, removed it so you could see better)

here is the inner most end of it so you can see where it threads into the steering rack

So more than likely it just spun in the socket there

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Thanks Rev. Mudd!! I was pretty sure that the inner tie rod had just rotated in the "cup" ; but I've never seen an inner tie rod from a Liberty off of the Jeep, "in person" and none of the pictures that I'd found were very clear...Better safe than sorry. Thanks again!

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Black '05 Renegade. Front suspension: Frankenlift, Moog HD LBJ's, Audiboy cut CV's
Rear suspension: OME 948's, 2 extra upper ISO's, Rancho RS 5000 shocks.
31X10.50X15 Duratrac's/ProComp 152's
ARB bumper, Mopar skids, JCR stage III's, Reese hitch with tractor lights, Champion shackle insert, "homebrew" on board air, 1000 watt inverter

Not a problem
I'm sure thats what happened

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Supposed to do that,it's how the toe is set.

Need to replace at least one of my inner tie rods. Anyone remember what size crow's foot is needed for the inner tie rod removal tool? There seem to be several loaners available from the auto parts stores, but nothing states unequivocally that their included crow's feet inserts fit the KJ.

No crows foot needed

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Yep, you were spot on. Once I got the boot off, that ball joint was much more accessible than I expected, particularly if the steering wheel is turned appropriately. Maxed out the span on my largest crescent wrench, but it managed. Interestingly, there was no evidence of any sort of Loctite on the threads, despite what I've seen saying it is necessary upon replacement of the rods.