A/C crapped out

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:04 am

Today it got up to 78, and I turned on the A/C because I had to roll up the windows to talk on my phone. It never got cold....

I'm not an A/C guy at all, but I opened the hood and checked the lines, there's no signs of anything being ruptured anywhere, so I wonder if it's like a home A/C unit (why wouldn't it be?) and might just be low on Puron/Freon, whatever?

Thoughts? Places I should look? Could one of those Auto-Zone/Napa/Whomever kits of re-charge actually work?

Heat works good, but I don't think a car works like a heat pump?

Any input is appreciated.

wilco549 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:20 am

Not like a heat pump at all. The two systems are separate on the crd.

It could be low of gas, it could be a fuse, pressure switch or relay, it could be the compressor.

I suggest you take it to a garage.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:15 am

Hexus, get an Ac service kit (low and high pressure hoses plus service line and gauges) it runs from 60-ish up, get a vacuum pump, refrigerant and oil. The type of oil and refrigerant should be under the hood on a sticker. A good vacuum pump is around 300, maybe you can borrow one. It is really easy if you have the tools to do it yourself. Issue with Autozone kits is you can only add refrigerant, without checking for vacuum leaks or monitoring pressure and how your system works.

If you're still doing business through Cleveland area, I have everything.

Btw, if you still have some refrigerant, you could hear the compressor kicking in when you switch Ac on. If it's too low on refrigerant, you won't hear it. It's also worth to check the fuses, but I doubt that's the issue.

A shop may charge 200+ easy, so you spend about double and have the proper tools to keep. My opinion obviously.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 9:38 am

Its impossible to know the freon levels without a set of gauges.
If you suspect a freon leak you can add some freon with UV dye in it.

Does the compressor clutch kick on when you turn the AC on?
Does the electric cooling fan turn on when you turn the AC on?

If the clutch doesn't engage (you should be able to hear it if it does) it could be a bad relay or a bad fuse.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 12:35 pm

AS others said, do not just add Freon without knowing what the system pressures are. Only a set of good AC gauges can give you the information...
Adding too much Freon to a system can cause damage to compressor and / or bust hoses, or cause leaks in evaporator or condenser. Seen others do this and the results were expensive!!!! :roll:

Diagnose problem and find root cause before buying parts... :wink:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 1:15 pm

If you are not, as you say, an AC person then start with the simple:
1. check the appropriate fuse (#14) behind the panel on the left side of the dash - ideally check for continuity with a volt/ohm meter
2. in the power distribution center (plastic hard to open box behind battery) check fuse F21 and relay R35 (you can check by swapping in another same size relay)
Either of the above can prevent the AC clutch from cycling at all.

If no luck there the next thing I'd check or get checked are the 1 or 2 pressure sensors that cycle the AC on/off and then I'd get the system's pressure tested which is way out of my league. Note this is a pretty standard system so any competent auto AC shop should be able to diagnose but IIRC the compressor is CRD specific as in different from gasser compressor.

Hexus · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 1:44 pm

Yeah, no click at all when I turn it on.

I'll check the relays and the fuses first, always start cheap!

wilco549 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 3:30 pm

I have had systems leak tested/charged here for $80 and have recently seen offers for $60. I have "topped off" some with the DIY kits that had minor leak-down over several years.

I simply don't trust some of the local shops and their business practices: I bought a '10 Subaru last year, AC would not cycle on. I took to a local reputable service center that quoted me 2K+ to replace the evaporator because it's "leaking inside the dash" I told them to leave it "AS-IS" and that I would schedule the service later. It's still working and it's been over 1 year. It may eventually leak down but I can live with an annual service fee. BTW, The same shop quoted me $80 to diagnose and fill but wanted $128 when I went to pick it up. Needless to say, they will never see me again.

My advise: Get a 2nd opinion if they find major issues. :JEEPIN:

ibedonc · **Joined:** Mon Feb 12, 2007 2:40 pm **Posts:** 236

wilco549 wrote:

I have had systems leak tested/charged here for $80 and have recently seen offers for $60. I have "topped off" some with the DIY kits that had minor leak-down over several years.

I simply don't trust some of the local shops and their business practices: I bought a '10 Subaru last year, AC would not cycle on. I took to a local reputable service center that quoted me 2K+ to replace the evaporator because it's "leaking inside the dash" I told them to leave it "AS-IS" and that I would schedule the service later. It's still working and it's been over 1 year. It may eventually leak down but I can live with an annual service fee. BTW, The same shop quoted me $80 to diagnose and fill but wanted $128 when I went to pick it up. Needless to say, they will never see me again.

My advise: Get a 2nd opinion if they find major issues. :JEEPIN:

my local shop only charged $700 to replace evap and heater cores , I supplied the cores

this is Taylor Texas

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:00 pm

FYI the clutch will not engage when the system is low because there is a low pressure interlock switch(and high pressure) that keep the system from pumping.

IE if you had a leak and dipped below low pressure setpoint the compressor will never electrically engage.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 7:45 pm

Never just add R134a to a system,even with a pressure gauge setup it's impossible to know how much R134a is in the system.It must be recycled out and weighed,then recharged with dye to find any leaks.

Automotive AC systems require a very specific amount of R134a(not Freon,that's a trademarked name for R12) by weight.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2016 8:51 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

Never just add R134a to a system,even with a pressure gauge setup it's impossible to know how much R134a is in the system.It must be recycled out and weighed,then recharged with dye to find any leaks.

Automotive AC systems require a very specific amount of R134a(not Freon,that's a trademarked name for R12) by weight.

I believe they specify the quantity of refrigerant and oil on a sticker under the hood.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 12:32 pm

If you end up needing a compressor, I have a couple lying around that I won't use. zero dollars your cost :JEEPIN:

Hexus · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 10:14 pm

I appreciate that Mountainman, I may just take you up on that.

Well, it's not the relays or any fuses, so I'm guessing it's probably lost it's coolant or gotten low over the past 11 years.

I'm going to look around for a reputable (laughing booty off as I type this) repair shop that does auto A/C work.

Christ, this is going to be expensive.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:05 pm

np, if the pressure just bled down, maybe one of the small cheap canisters of gas from a FLAPs isn't too risky, and if a little extra pressure doesn't make it work (enough to get the low pressure switch in the correct state) then it's probably something else. I would just add a little, as I can't see them selling those things with enough pressure to damage the system..??
The pressure switches are really easy to swap, if you have another CRD around to rob them from? You don't lose pressure when swapping the switches, or at least the one below the battery, but it's probably just a recharge anyhow. Then again, if the fan isn't running constantly, then I don't think it's just low pressure though, because that's what I see after reassembly with no pressure.

Or, you could use my solution, and gut all of the AC stuff, really makes working under the hood and finding problems a lot easier. But, then again, I remember how humid that Appalachian country is!

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 11:43 pm

Hexus wrote:

I appreciate that Mountainman, I may just take you up on that.

Well, it's not the relays or any fuses, so I'm guessing it's probably lost it's coolant or gotten low over the past 11 years.

I'm going to look around for a reputable (laughing booty off as I type this) repair shop that does auto A/C work.

Christ, this is going to be expensive.

R134a has much smaller molecules then R12 and no matter what will leak past the rubber hoses.The industry standard is 1/4oz per year and automotive systems are such small capacity that a few oz will make a difference if the system works or not.

pjlasota · **Joined:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 8:39 pm **Posts:** 18

Mountainman wrote:

If you end up needing a compressor, I have a couple lying around that I won't use. zero dollars your cost :JEEPIN:

I could use one!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mountainman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 11:54 am

pjlasota wrote:

Mountainman wrote:

If you end up needing a compressor, I have a couple lying around that I won't use. zero dollars your cost :JEEPIN:

I could use one!!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I better keep one around as a spare for my pile of CRDs, but if Hexus doesn't take one, it's all yours.

A/C crapped out

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