noob to lost jeeps bought my first crd!!!

dieseljoe93 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:03 pm

Hello everyone!!

I read the noob guide from sir sam, lots of interesting stuff in their.

Picked up a 2005 Crd Limited silver the other day with 77K on the odometer, already had hoses on it when i bought it. sadly the f37 was done on it

very clean jeep came from PA at auction and i found it in Indiana. I live in michigan made a nice 4hr drive to purchase it.

Any way, ive got 2 issues with it

1st off its got torque convertor shudder, i know my options are the euro convertor or suncoast. except i cant seem to track down a suncoast convertor or get any form of communication back from them. Anyone know if its still availble anywhere? also what else should i do to the trans when i do get a convertor and pull the trans for the replacement?

2nd issue is when i turn the rear defrost on the 3rd brake light will also come on, ive traced the wires all back to the main harness before i stopped. have to take more apart to chase farther. any one experience this before ??

GDE eco tune ft on the way soon wont install till after a new convertor is in.

also had to replace the turbo intake hose 2 days after i got it.

little back ground info about me Im a very well mechinally inclined guy, i maintaine and repair all my trucks and heavy equipment so theres no task to big for me to take on.

this is my first non powerstroke diesel vehicle so far i love it alittle more then my built OBS 7.3 powerstroke

any other helpful info you guys think i might need feel free to throw it my way!!!

thanks guys

mass-hole · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:13 pm

Some people are also using the RAM hemi TC. It sounds like it has a lower stall speed so it feels a bit tighter when it's unlocked that the stock or euro tc's

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:15 pm

This jeep prolly has more power than your 7.3. Haha...I kid I kid.

Welcome to the forum. I know the miles are only 77k but for the age if the timing belt hasn't been done it needs done.

When doing the tc guys will replace the front pump to solve the leak down issue.

Delete the darn egr asap and arp stud it.

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 9:35 pm

Quote:

This jeep prolly has more power than your 7.3. Haha...I kid I kid.

Theres a couple of us laying down more power than a 7.3, had a F550 that had 250hp i think, i hated that thing!

These motors are good once you get them where they should have been. Everything else around it is marginal

dieseljoe93 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:27 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

Quote:

This jeep prolly has more power than your 7.3. Haha...I kid I kid.

Theres a couple of us laying down more power than a 7.3, had a F550 that had 250hp i think, i hated that thing!

These motors are good once you get them where they should have been. Everything else around it is marginal

250hp was a stock super duty, my jeep has a long way to catch up to my 7.3 dynoed 624hp/988 torque.

dieseljoe93 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 10:33 pm

jws84_02 wrote:

This jeep prolly has more power than your 7.3. Haha...I kid I kid.

Welcome to the forum. I know the miles are only 77k but for the age if the timing belt hasn't been done it needs done.

When doing the tc guys will replace the front pump to solve the leak down issue.

Delete the darn egr asap and arp stud it.

Timing belt is on the list. I have almost no service history about it the dealer i bought it from got it at a repo auction, they knew nothing at all about it

is there a updated front pump? who sells this?? im having a hard time finding parts for the trans in general. I deleted the FCV or whatever the valve in the intake is already pulled the bolts and valve off the shaft.

as for the egr thats why i ordered the GDE. when i do the timing belt ill also get the weeks 1&2 kits for the egr.

these little motors really need the studs??

diesel_guy86 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:16 pm

Long story short, yes they do. Factory TTY bolts dont yield and produce uneven clamping force on the head. Studs and 30+psi of boost from a BB an billet turbo the last 50k miles and no headgasket issues at all, even without head gasket sealer. Meanwhile factory engines seem to be blowing them left and right.

A lift pump is a good idea too.

dieseljoe93 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:21 pm

diesel_guy86 wrote:

Long story short, yes they do. Factory TTY bolts dont yield and produce uneven clamping force on the head. Studs and 30+psi of boost from a BB an billet turbo the last 50k miles and no headgasket issues at all, even without head gasket sealer. Meanwhile factory engines seem to be blowing them left and right.

A lift pump is a good idea too.

i was sold at tty bolts i hate tty bolts my backhoe had them on the cylinder packing assemblys and they would blow under a load.

ill do a lift pump upgrade when i end up needing one

wilco549 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:13 am

dieseljoe93 wrote:

Hello everyone!!

I read the noob guide from sir sam, lots of interesting stuff in their.

Picked up a 2005 Crd Limited silver the other day with 77K on the odometer, already had hoses on it when i bought it. sadly the f37 was done on it

very clean jeep came from PA at auction and i found it in Indiana. I live in michigan made a nice 4hr drive to purchase it.

Any way, ive got 2 issues with it

1st off its got torque convertor shudder, i know my options are the euro convertor or suncoast. except i cant seem to track down a suncoast convertor or get any form of communication back from them. Anyone know if its still availble anywhere? also what else should i do to the trans when i do get a convertor and pull the trans for the replacement?

2nd issue is when i turn the rear defrost on the 3rd brake light will also come on, ive traced the wires all back to the main harness before i stopped. have to take more apart to chase farther. any one experience this before ??

GDE eco tune ft on the way soon wont install till after a new convertor is in.

also had to replace the turbo intake hose 2 days after i got it.

little back ground info about me Im a very well mechinally inclined guy, i maintaine and repair all my trucks and heavy equipment so theres no task to big for me to take on.

this is my first non powerstroke diesel vehicle so far i love it alittle more then my built OBS 7.3 powerstroke

any other helpful info you guys think i might need feel free to throw it my way!!!

thanks guys

Check out the DIY tune in the CRD tech section of this forum. Very much worth the effort and only cost is about 20 bucks for a cable. viewtopic.php?f=98&t=78418
I installed a heavy duty 13-35HD Florida Torque Converter(500+ ft/lbs) . About 1/2 price of the SC and in stock on the shelf. http://www.floridatorqueconverters.com/ ... 45RFE.html

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 9:33 am

Suncoast is still in business but whether or not they stock or can build a CRD TC I do not know. Internet site is http://suncoastdiesel.com/ I'd call and ask for Ron Wolverton.

That said the Euro is just fine and easier to get. If you are in as far as a new TC I'd do the new OEM front pump (68009879AB which I assume comes with the new gasket).

ARP studs are great but I question the need to do them UNLESS you are going in all the way to check rockers in which case they are worth adding.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:27 am

If the transmission fluid is burnt, I'd get a junkyard hemi trans + TC that has good looking fluid, and throw that in there, if you can get a good price. The Transmission is such a chore, that you won't want to repeat it anytime soon.

I would take a lot of time making sure that the HG doesn't already leak, and if it's a bad leak, then you'll pull the head, which will make removing the upper transmission bolts a lot easier. If it's a really minor leak, then you can usually get away with one for one ARP's. At that mileage it's probably fine, but not necessarily.

X2 on the timing belt. You can pick one up for about $60 online (continental out of Europe if I remember right, gates is a little more), and if the water pump and pulleys all feel good, you could skip them for another 20k or so, but the new belt will be cheap insurance, or do them all if you have the cash.

I've seen rockers fail at 88k, and heard of them failing once in the 60's, so it's not a total waste to pull the top, ARP stud it, and discard any loose rockers. I've been finding engines that just have 2 or 3 wasted ones, and with a GDE tune, slightly worn ones will probably last forever. :2cents:

wilco549 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:48 am

Where is your temp gauge needle at operating temp? Should be just barely to left of center mark. Typical for the T-stat to fail open and will only run about 140-150f under normal conditions.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 11:50 am

wilco549 wrote:

Where is your temp gauge needle at operating temp? Should be just barely to left of center mark. Typical for the T-stat to fail open and will only run about 140-150f under normal conditions.

Good point, and pull that dang viscous heater relay ASAP, it could be killing your fuel economy, and lying to you about your thermostat condition :JEEPIN:

dieseljoe93 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 4:09 pm

Mountainman wrote:

wilco549 wrote:

Where is your temp gauge needle at operating temp? Should be just barely to left of center mark. Typical for the T-stat to fail open and will only run about 140-150f under normal conditions.

Good point, and pull that dang viscous heater relay ASAP, it could be killing your fuel economy, and lying to you about your thermostat condition :JEEPIN:

at operating temp the needle is dead on the center mark.

whats the purpose of the viscous heater? i read something about it but dont rememer what i read. Pulling the relay wont cause any other issues? The GDE tune just makes it used less i think

wilco549 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:39 pm

Viscous heaters help heat the antifreeze to op temps in cool weather {+/-40f}. Probably can pull the relay in the summer but you will need it for MI winters. I ran without mine for a while this winter and struggled to get to 1/4 mark with a 195f TS. I.m in TN.

Mountainman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 7:52 pm

wilco549 wrote:

Viscous heaters help heat the antifreeze to op temps in cool weather {+/-40f}. Probably can pull the relay in the summer but you will need it for MI winters. I ran without mine for a while this winter and struggled to get to 1/4 mark with a 195f TS. I.m in TN.

When I ran an inline, I was able to keep my temp needle vertical, and the VH went in the trash years ago, and it gets cold in Idaho. With a solid 193-200 degree stat, the only benefit is faster engine warm-up, but when it's that cold, these things need the block heater anyhow. The VH bearing will fail eventually, and cause a breakdown, and it's really expensive to replace. I can't remember if anyone has yet to successfully replace just the bearing.

oh, that's with the mechanical fan deleted...
You definitely want to either pull the mechanical fan for the winter, or maybe a good grill block will work to keep you from over cooling.

I really think the only way to go for heating and cooling and reliability is the H.D.S. 001 thermostat. He we go again :goink:

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Mar 15, 2016 8:46 pm

Yes you can replace the viscous heater bearing for real cheap. If you want a how to email me and I will dig up the link. VH clutch is another story.

PS. for how to see chat at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60567

wilco549 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 16, 2016 7:01 am

Mountainman wrote:

wilco549 wrote:

Viscous heaters help heat the antifreeze to op temps in cool weather {+/-40f}. Probably can pull the relay in the summer but you will need it for MI winters. I ran without mine for a while this winter and struggled to get to 1/4 mark with a 195f TS. I.m in TN.

When I ran an inline, I was able to keep my temp needle vertical, and the VH went in the trash years ago, and it gets cold in Idaho. With a solid 193-200 degree stat, the only benefit is faster engine warm-up, but when it's that cold, these things need the block heater anyhow. The VH bearing will fail eventually, and cause a breakdown, and it's really expensive to replace. I can't remember if anyone has yet to successfully replace just the bearing.

oh, that's with the mechanical fan deleted...
You definitely want to either pull the mechanical fan for the winter, or maybe a good grill block will work to keep you from over cooling.

I really think the only way to go for heating and cooling and reliability is the H.D.S. 001 thermostat. He we go again :goink:

you had to say the word.....TD is on the way :banghead:

olypopper · **Posted:** Wed Mar 16, 2016 11:24 am

While I had mine torn apart for sheared rockers it got a head gasket, arp studs, suncoast converter and a trans rebuild. I also did the GDE hot tune.......and a bunch of other stuff. It rips and I'm glad I took the time to go down to the head gasket. Center bolts were loose and it was only a matter of time before I would have popped a HG.

The water pump took my rockers out as it got wobbly and the belt slipped. Replace the pump any time you do the belt!

The best mod besides the GDE tune is my HDS model 1 thermostat. Expensive but worth it. Engine runs better and makes heat now.

Rixram · **Posted:** Wed Mar 16, 2016 3:50 pm

Maybe I missed it, but you are planning to get the GDE ECO tune, right?

It turns off the VH earlier, anyway. I kept my VH in service, and the engine gets to 1/4 gauge pretty quick, and gradually increases to straight up (I have an in-line 195°F T-stat (that I really like)) operating temp over a couple more miles.

The ECO tune also eliminates your EGR issues, too. And boosts power. And boosts mileage. And makes you breakfast in the morning.
Okay, maybe not the last part.

noob to lost jeeps bought my first crd!!!

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