Upgrades to a CRD

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2016 4:00 pm

I wish it were otherwise, but rebuilding the turbo yourself is a fool's errand. It will not last more than 100 miles, I know from experience.

It does sound like you have done most of the needed mods, I'm glad to hear you have new boost hoses and blocked the EGR mechanically. You are definitely overboosting so please don't run the CRD like that, the modulator is computer controlled, so if a fresh MAP sensor hasn't given the computer good information (it really is only for the limits - upper and lower) then you must still be losing the normal boost somewhere along the line.

Since you have had the intercooler out, take a good look at the passenger end up near the top, and you may need to take it out entirely again and have it pressure tested (15psi leak down like a radiator tester is sufficient) to see if the plastic end tubs are cracked. There were a number of CRDs that developed cracks in the plastic or even the aluminum right near the inlet connection, the heat from the hot air was too much for the connection and it rotted out some of the welds or the plastic itself. Look for oil anywhere it shouldn't be, that will usually highlight the point of a crack.

The elbow kit also eliminates multiple gaskets on the elbow end and the FCV is a completely wasted device. If you don't remove the FCV entirely and use the elbow kit, at least seal off the port in the elbow with a thin piece of flashing in between the elbow and the pipe or at the EGR end - that pipe has been known to leak too. You should also remove the butterfly flapper in the FCV's intake tube, this will prevent it possibly choking down on your intake airflow.

You obviously still have a boost leak somewhere - although it is a small one, that overboosting the turbo is able to overcome. The trick is finding the dang thing.

olypopper · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2016 9:09 pm

If you have or suspect a boost leak, you'll need to devise a set of plugs to block off the ends of the charge air system post turbo and pre engine and pressurize it. I did this on a Cummins a few years back and all it took was about 25.00 worth of plastic PVC caps and plugs and some time and pretty soon, I found the leak.

rkw · **Joined:** Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:19 pm **Posts:** 7

Hello everyone

I took the turbo cooler off and inspected it and using a gauge ment for leak down checks plugged the ends then pressurised the cooler and it held 20 psi for 20 minutes. Then I connected the turbo hoses and plugged the ends and did the leak down test again at 10 psi and it held for 20 minutes.

I connected every thing back up and still black smoke. I'm going to try the smoke check next.

I really appreciate all the advice given here. I will post my findings.

Randy

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:52 am

Hmm, too bad you didn't find the leak yet.

What do you mean by 'smoke check' exactly?

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:21 am

geordi wrote:

Hmm, too bad you didn't find the leak yet.

What do you mean by 'smoke check' exactly?

Most likely he is talking about using a smoke machine to find any leaks. Most automotive repair shops nowadays have a smoke machine to find leaks on Evaporative systems using a Smoke Machine Diagnostic Emissions Evaporative Leak Detection Tester.
Google automotive smoke machine to read about them.... :wink:

rkw · **Joined:** Mon Dec 14, 2015 9:19 pm **Posts:** 7

Hello Everyone

I took an old whole house water filter and fitted it with adapters to connect to my air compressor and then to the turbo hose coming from the Turbo. Then I put dry ice in the filter compartment (Filter removed) then opened the valve to the air compressor to generate smoke and create pressure in the system. It looks like it worked OK but did not reveal any leaks in the intake.

I'm going to take a step back and start looking at the whole system again to see if I messed something up when doing the intake improvements.

Randy

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Mar 29, 2016 10:56 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

If you want to make a block off plate for a test to eliminate ANY boost leak-by that can be placed between the EGR valve and ERG tube until you can maybe get a Weeks kit; these are the dimensions:
Can be made out of any ~22 - 14 gauge sheet metal! I would not use aluminium !!! :wink:

Install instructions located here:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=76576&hilit

I believe the plate can be aluminum if the egr is electronically disabled, like it is with gde tune. At least mine has been aluminum since I have the weeks kit. Ram also has an aluminum plate, also with gde tune. There really isn't much heat with egr being electronically turned off.

Upgrades to a CRD

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