Hey guys - just wanted to say that the forum has been great even though I haven't interacted with it much. It's really helped me out a lot.

I almost got one many many years ago as a 4x4 when I was into sports cars, but used they were so much more than the competing vehicles (obviously diesel = worth it tho) - I ended up getting a 99 Discovery II for $3k, which has *knock on wood* been a great vehicle considering the reputation. I sold the car and got an LR3 so I'm mostly a rover guy now, BUT..

The GF had to ditch her 08 frontier RWD as it got 12mpg most of the time, worthless in winter, and was TINY inside.. We had a few vehicles in mind, liberty, escape, even GC, most of the CRDs were $$, but one dealership had Liberty Limited listed as a V6 but as she scrolled through the images (she already loved it so was showing me the listing..) I told her to STOP as I caught a glimpse of the engine bay shot. Engine cover said CRD on it. So yeah I MADE her to over there the next morning and the rest is history.

It never got above like 1/4 temp - she tried to complain at dealer but got pushed around as usual, they said "diesels just run cooler.." ..like uh yeah, don't you think the engineers would have factored that in when they designed the temp gauge? ..not that it's even true but yeah.

So I convinced them to let me do the thermostat, and like magic it was good again (ran cold like that for probably a year though!)

I did the timing belt on it a couple months ago.. again had to convince them, they got it with like 108 on it and didn't do the belt till 135ish. It seemed okay but if you bend it, you could see some cracks/marks - I GUESS it was original?? Did the alternator, fuel filter head redesign, and some other stuff at the same time.

I've done EHM and unplugged MAF, cleaned MAP (was NASTY, I've checked it once since and it's perfect now.. imagine that.)

The thing had some horrible *what seemed like* tire flat spot / pot hole damage noise, tires did have a weird warp in spots.. I think they were the SR-A (maybe ST, I forget which is the older OE) so we replaced them all to the new model of those two. SAME NOISE! By now it was deafening. I just now convinced them to do the wheel bearings, and when I pulled the driver side wheel I immediately noticed that the AXLE NUT WAS SPUN LOOSE and about to fall off! WTF. So I did that side, went to the other side, pulled the wheel. ZERO AXLE NUT AT ALL. I mean someone probably did them at 80-90k 3-4 years ago, and forgot to tighten one side, then forgot to even install the other side - as it can't fall out without pushing the centercap out.

So I had to drive home without the other nut and old bearing on still since no one had one in stock. Not worried since other side required a sledge hammer to get axle out. Noise was still there tho. Next day I got the nut ($17?!) and finished everything, ZERO NOISE! So it's a totally different vehicle now and finally enjoyable to drive again.

REMAINING ISSUES (I think the list grows quicker than I can fix things..)
*Air in fuel. Always. WTF? I installed brand new filter head / filter and after a week or two I have to pump / crack bleeder 5x before I get pure fuel!

*Turbo hose leak? When I did timing belt I noticed black stained air black "puff" mark on *front* side of intercooler. Had to be small leak. Not sure if it's that which I'm noticing though - I was at my shop and had no ride so had to finish project as is. Maybe 3 weeks later the vehicle developed what sounds like a lower-pitched turbo spool-up noise when you get on the gas. It's delayed from the real turbo spool noise which is already way up there. It just sounds like a larger cummins type turbo but usually remains lower pitched then goes away at high power. Is this a CAC hose leak or what? I inspected them about 6 months ago and found no indication of damage or even cracking / warning signs. Yesterday when I got on it after wheel bearing success, I noticed that as it spools up and you start to feel some real torque, if you give it even more pedal, it'll increase power then just fall off out rather quickly and accelerates at a steady reduced rate after. Feels like the boost reaches some critical point that can't overcome the leak. I should have scanned the codes but CEL is always on as MAF is unplugged so I didn't even think about it. This should show an underboost code right?

*Front driveshaft. GF said she barely got to work one day, horrible noise under her seat? So I removed the freaking driveshaft in the parking lot of her work (was a saturday..) diff boot was torn and open to elements, and all was good that evening. I put a new CV on it before our east coast blizzard but the thing got SUPER HOT after test drive, and I was worried it was cooked. She HAD to drive it somewhere and ignored my warnings next day (I wanted to take it off again, but snow was coming..) somehow it was fine though, I heard of break in periods on some but darn. Maybe a month later she complained about horrible noise again, thinking it finally cooked I removed it only to find that CV felt perfect! No complaints since then with it off. So I'm worried there's something up with the front diff? She only drives it in 2WD 99% of the time so I'm not sure how to narrow it down.

*DIRTY OIL. Okay I know it's a diesel but what's a good expectation for oil color? I can drain and refill and check dipstick and the stuff is already black. I'm thinking I'll do a double fill/drain next time with crappy dino 10w40 and crappy filter for an hour, then the good stuff. I crossed the OE filter to one that's like 3x larger last time, so hopefully that helped. It does lose oil but at 145k miles I'd expect that from turbo and other areas, seems like inlet/outlet oil lines leaking a little on turbo as well. I just keep it full (big list after all, lol..)

*NOISE. K I love the tractor noise, but how loud are these supposed to be? I hear the videos of these things that have damaged heads / valvetrain and honestly they sound basically the same as this with some different undertones? It has some kind of exhaust leak at downpipe which makes it different, but still. Just checking to make sure it's normal. It gets 35mpg on the highway all day long with ZERO tune, just pulled MAF that's it - doubt any damage to internals.

*Trans shudder when cold at low speeds? & LATE TC lockup in final drive.
Lately if you pull out of driveway 20 seconds or so after startup you can go about 30' (5mph or so, just driveway speeds) and things start binding, feels like transmission area. GF told me "oh it's been doing that it's fine" Did it to me twice during 2x I drove it to work for wheel bearings last two days. Shift into neutral and wait a second and it NEVER does it again. ALSO why does the final gear TC lockup occur so late?! It's so darn awkward. She can be driving at like 59mph and I HAVE to tell her to go faster so the revs drop and TC locks up (and mileage goes up by 4mpg instantly lol). WHY WOULD THEY SET TC LOCKUP ABOVE 75% OF USA SPEED LIMITS?!#@$@!% Seems like 62-63mph is magic number.

*FLUIDS. Wow, most of the fluid intervals on my LR3 are 65k - 100k (not that I go THAT far, but still) I couldn't believe that diffs / tcase / trans are 12k / 15k / 30k. That's just unbelievable to me. A friend at work got a 2015 Wrangler and I had to tell him that - even his intervals started at like 15k and he had NO idea - figured he wouldn't have to mess with that for a few years still, he does oil and basics himself but didn't even look at that stuff.
So Liberty hasn't had ANY fluids changed since the GF got it at 108kish. I'm correct to assume that I need to push this to the top of my list? Maybe w/ new pan w/ drain for rear?

*Rear brakes, I've noticed that they slightly drag a few times now, but temporarily. I can pump them and/or go into reverse a few times and they're usually good. The braking surface is about HALF the rear rotors (center only) inner/outer edges are rusted. Is this just caliper slides or the classic Chrysler caliper drama?

I think that's it. Rear speakers are totally blown but I have new ones already, little stuff like that. Parking brake doesn't work but I'll try interior reset first. I love this thing but whoever was in charge of vehicle ergonomics NEEDS TO BE FIRED IMMEDIATELY. ZERO flat space to set anything, ZERO cup holders, ZERO storage, TINY glove box. The entire dash is just a funky curvy waste of space. I just find myself with a pile of crap in my lap and stuff falling all over when I'm in it. Say what you will about rover reliability BUT that thing has two glove boxes, 11 cup holders and center console cooler and storage above, big door storage on all 4, two rear cargo bins at 3rd row, rubberized FLAT dash space - above glove box, LCD screen, and at center console. Liberty even has darn HORIZONTAL back-seat storage. Like.. what is that? You can tell that the same person was responsible for most of the weird interior. I've also hit my head on the rear tailgate glass 100 times - and not being able to pop the glass without the fob is REALLY bizarre to me. Anyone walking up to the thing in a driveway or parking lot has to swing that huge door open to grab a small item? Or open/slam door then use glass? Plus I'm 6' tall which isn't an unusual height, but wow that seat needs to go back more. Seriously - that person in charge of ergonomics / handling is just. No.

Anyways I love the thing to death still, and wish I could yank that engine and put it into every car / SUV that I've ever owned. In my LR3 I average about 15mpg (granted my average speed is like 23mph in traffic all week) but you need to struggle to get below 22mpg in the liberty all city. Highway ONCE LR3 managed 20.3mpg / 400mi on a road trip loaded up, cruise @ ideal 63mph, the CRD can get 45mpg if you're in cruise TC locked at 63mph and behind a tractor trailer. I really can't even comprehend it. Oh but they DITCHED THIS ENGINE A YEAR LATER?>@$#%> Such BS politics. Sure diesels are back now, but they're so incredibly complicated, expensive, AND restricted, that it's almost totally pointless.

Wow. That's a lot.
I'll try to quickly answer a few easy ones while I have time.

Air in fuel.
It's good that you replaced the fuel filter assembly.
Now you need to go check all the fuel line connections between the tank and the filter. I had to cut out a connection back at the tank and replace with regular fuel line. Same with the crimped connection up by the filter.
The 100% definitive fix is the in tank fuel pump.

Transmission.
The transmission has a known problem where fluid drains back after parked for some time. Creates funky engagement issues.
The solution is to let it idle in N for a min before putting into gear.
When was the last time the fluid and filter were replaced?
Should also consider doing the TransGo shift kit.
With OD-on, transmission should shift into 4th at about 34 mph.
4th+lockup at 51 mph.
5th+lockup at 61 mph.

Brakes.
Yup, the calipers are known for getting sticky and locking up. I have replaced all four of mine.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

A lot of your questions are in the noob guide also, you'll want to check it out. Sounds like you need to rebuilt the rear portion on the front drive line, cut out the supply quick connect by the fuel tank (drop the tank required), noise is probably normal since you have great mpg's, yes that was the original belt if it was cracked, remove that EHM and put it back to stock or do Provent or you will be sorry with a main seal leak (the turbo provides necessary vacuum), Your turbo to airbox hose where it joins to the turbo is probably where your leak is (remove it and you'll see that it's split parallel with the hose clamp, Get a GDE engine tune and your oil will clear up significantly after several changes.

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Thanks for your comments (both of you!)

Real quick - what's the GDE tune doing differently with regards to the dirty oil - and how often do you change your oil, and how bad does it look when that time comes?

That's weird about the EHM, I DID specifically read the noob guide (basically my crash course into the vehicle when she got it) but it seemed like everyone did it with no problems. I am NOT trying to do a mainshaft seal on this thing! I don't mind provent though - there are times at a light when the vapor/smoke is pretty bad. People at the gas station always mention it.

Sucks about the fuel tank too.

Any thoughts on that whistle noise as boost develops? Actual turbo spool noise is already up and can't be heard, this comes up a second afterwards but sounds just like a second turbo. I should probably just replace that intercooler and run the samco hoses, but I have to convince her to buy all this stuff so it's more difficult lol.

Sorry for the original post novel BTW. Got about a years worth of comments and concerns out of my system though.

GDE changes the injection timing to reduce soot from combustion. Thus less soot getting into the oil. The blackness doesn't go away easily. It coats everything inside the engine. Which is why it's best to use a oil designed for turbo Diesel engines. Those oils handle soot better than automotive oils.
I change my oil about every 8000 miles.

Pull off the turbo inlet hose. And inspect it carefully. If your lucky, it will rip apart when try to pull it off and then you will know right away where the problem is
(Happened to me twice)

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

You mentioned smoke and a black spot by the intercooler on the inlet side... That is the classic location for the plastic tub OR the aluminum fin welds to crack and cause a boost leak, the black spot is your indication where the center of the leak is. This needs to be fixed (obviously) or your boost leak will continue to cost you fuel economy.

Speaking of fuel economy, how are you getting that number? If you are reading it from the overhead console inside, then that would explain the numbers, that computer is a known liar and *always* reads at least 3mpg high. Driving slow in top gear is certainly better than trying to push this barn at 80+ down the road, but the only way to know for certain about the economy is to fill it up to the tippy-top of the filler so you have wet fuel sitting comfortably before you put away the nozzle, and then drive it a bunch, and fill up to the same point again. You cannot trust the gauge OR the fuel nozzle, they do not shut off at the same or predictable points at all. Also, you will want to use a GPS to track the total mileage, the odometer has been known to be a bit conservative, reading LESS miles than are actual by as much as 10%.

The EGR is most likely not sealing completely when off, so you will want to get the elbow kit and a blocking plate (in the kit) and seal that sucker completely, as the EGR is also a built-in boost leak when you are driving around! A GDE tune will eliminate the code from the system so you can plug the MAF back in, and please do put the CCV system back together. The EHM is not a preferred or needed option anymore, and causes more problems than it fixes.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Yeah, X2, it has been a more recent discovery that the EHM is bad. A lot of people are still running them. Just ask the real experts at GDE, they don't have main seal problems, and they leave them stock.

_________________
05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

Quick thoughts from me: gde tune is the first thing and best you can do for a crd. Not only your oil will be cleaner, but the whole pilot injection and the way crd runs is changed. In good. Less fuel consumption, more power and torque. Go on greendieselengineering.com and see which tune would fit your needs. They also have a special I believe to get the tune + programming box for 100off. There is a thread in this subforum with details. My oil looks better than a new gasoline vehicle after any amount of miles.

Why ehm is bad. You mentioned snow storms, which means you leave in an area with sub-freezing temps. Condensation from ehm can cause blockage and this causes ccv gases to not escape and damage rear main seal. You can go around this by making some holes upstream where the engine warms up but this causes bad odor in the vehicle. Get that thing out, I can't imagine any woman that would like that smell, lol. Provent is the way to go, idparts.com sells it if you need to keep the oil out. If you go provent then you also need a check valve installed on the draining tube to prevent air suction when is negative pressure in provent (I assume you'll drain on the ground and not go with the harder, proper way of connecting the tube to the oil pan - kind of hard to do imo and not worth).

Several things regarding oil: oil pan I believe has 6.5 quarts of oil per specs. This is with stock size filter, 7qt with oversized. So watch out where on the dipstick it goes when you do oil change and do not add more oil, dipstick is very known to be inaccurate. If you overfill, then all that oil will result in exaggerated ccv oil mist. Regarding filters, bigger is generally better (at least that's what she said...) but it isn't in this case, unless you get a bigger filter with close bypass valve values to stock (or higher, with respect to the filter microns, so you want about the same microns with as high as possible value for bypass valve, to ensure filtration when pressure is higher). Usually the alternatives for bigger filter bypass at a lower psi bypass than stock, I don't remember the values, but you can find them looking at the filter specs. Think this way: you can put the biggest filter media that has 20psi bypass, so everything over 20 psi will bypass and not be filtered. Then you get a smaller filter, but with 40psi bypass. So you keep filtering when engine has higher load, even if the media per se is smaller. I'd get the small filter any day vs bigger one. Many people don't look at this aspect and always think bigger is better while ignoring other essential aspects.

Having a gde tune will clean your oil so there will not be so much stuff to clean. I'll take a pic later with oil that has about 6k on my crd.

Now, think if getting/doing all the mods is worth, it's an old vehicle, spending may not be a good idea. Also, you invested some money in it also. I believe you guys should decide if it is worth paying more for the jeep or sell it and get another one. The diesel alternatives aren't too cheap...

Btw, I like land Rover. Especially the defender diesel that's not sold in us...

_________________
2005 kj CRD, samco, suncoast tc, provent, Kennedy lift pump, GDE ECO full torque, 2nd gen filter head, 245/70/16 a/t tires, mopar light bar, fumoto oil valve, OEM Skid Plates, ARB Front bumper and HD OME, tru cool LPD47391 40k GVW tranny cooler (stock cooler delete), FF Dynamics e-fan and shroud, rocker arms replaced, HDS2 190F thermostat.