Hi Guys,,, great website. Thank you for all the info. I did read the newb guide and am excited to get started on it today.
Quick backstory then a question,,,I just picked up yesterday a 2006 from a used car dealer. Paid a bit much for it but it is super nice. My reason for wanting one is pretty much to replace my Vibe (great little car!) that isn't able to pull 2 seadoo's out of the boat launch ramp. But also went with the CRD to hopefully not sacrifice fuel mileage. Gas is way too expensive up here in Canada. When I picked up the Liberty yesterday I towed the Vibe home on a tow dolly,,,Wow!! I think the fuel gauge is broken on the Liberty,, ,, it barely moved! Lol
It is a one owner truck and then was traded in to a BMW dealership,, so I am hoping it came from a good home. It sure appears to have. It has 120 000 miles but unfortunately didn't come with any service records.

So,, my question is are there any telltale signs that the timing belt has been changed? I am not new to vehicles by any means, often there is evidence left behind if an in-depth repair has been done. ie; silicone at a cover seal,, wrench marks on bolt heads.

Also is there a way to tell is a Green Diesel program has been flashed in? I think I remember reading on here ( I have read a LOT! ) that the shift points are a way to tell,,, but I think that was for a Hot Tune?

Thank you!!

There is really no visual way to tell if the TB has been done. If you can track it back to where it was traded for a BMW maybe they can put you in touch with the previous owner. Alternatively go to a DCJ dealer with the VIN and request a dump of any DCJ service records; should be free. Failing that best advice is to assume the TB has not been done and do it.

Send an email to GDE with your VIN and they can tell you if it has an ECU and/or TCM flash. ECU flash won't show via shift points but may show as a "flair" to ca. 1,000 rpm at start up before dropping back to normal idle. At what speed does it shift into final lockup ca. 58 vs 63 mph?

PS my rpm flair is to 900 before dropping back to a steady idle at 750. That's with the GDE Stage II turbo tune which might be different from the other tunes.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Like Papaindigo said, but the idle flare is to about 1300 rpms, easy, for certain way to tell if it has the engine tune.

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05 CRD: H.D.S2 stat,WW Ironrock trilink&LCA's, OX rear,ARB front, 4.10's, ARB bumper, Suncoast,OME 3.5, JBA UCA,rock rails, Moabs&265/75 Duratracs, GDE tunes ,FFD fan,ARP's, 2 micron fuel, new valves,sasquatch battery tray & grid heater, tensioner relocated
Mech fan, VH & AC delete

My Liberty flares to 1100rpms on start ups.When I got my CRD I found an old receipt with the previous owners phone #. They were very helpful & a LOST member.

ok perfect,, thanks guys!
Will see if I can contact the previous owner as well as see what the dealership will cough up for information.
It came with a "carfax" that list a few service records at around 170 000 kms but no details of the service.

My rpm flare is only about 800.

On a side note I managed to prybar the MAP sensor off to clean it. It was completelt caked and clogged with carbon and soot. Does it still get carboned up with the offroad mod done? (MAF unplugged)


Thanks!

The MAP gets a lot less gunged up by disabling the EGR (GDE tune also does this) but ideally you also need to stop the engine oil from being pumped into the turbo inlet and hence through the Intercooler and back into the inlet manifold to keep the MAP clean. This entails installing a Provent or fitting a section of tubing to dump this oil from the tappet cover vent valve directly to the ground below. I have disabled my EGR which helps but a Provent looks like too much trouble and dumping oil on the ground is frowned upon here!

You can do a search for Provent or Elephant Hose Mod (EHM) on this site and read SAMs Noob Guide.

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

NO. The EHM is NOT a good idea anymore, people have had their rear main seals pop loose (requires dropping the transmission) if the hose gets plugged with debris or ice - I know ice isn't an issue in SA, but the oil is NOT the problem. The oil will actually also continue to clean the intake of the EGR sludge after the EGR is disabled, by softening it up and carrying it away to be burned, bit by bit. That is a better and cleaner solution than risking losing your oil to a leak.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Geordi is correct, you do not want to dump the CCV line to atmosphere (EHM). That old school practice of venting the crankcase to ground is not good for this unique engine due to the fact the engines internal vacuum pump actually vents internally inside the engine thus producing a lot of internal crankcase pressure or blowby as some call it and must be controlled by the CCV valve on top of the motor. In order for the CCV valve / puck to function properly according to design, it needs the slight vacuum produced by being connected to the intake of the turbo...
To learn more on this subject, read the following thread:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=80491&hilit

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve