DIY ECU Flash

3Dglasses · **Joined:** Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:10 pm **Posts:** 20

Greybeast wrote:

3Dglasses wrote:

OK, thanks for the info Yeti. I will try tom copy maps from the 808 to the 526.
Another question: has anyone tested out the "Greybeast-526-EGR_FCV_delete-stock.bin" that I saw posted a while back? (it is not posed on the first page, so I do not know if it is tested and reliable).
This might be a good place for me to start modifying instead of using my own original .bin file.
Thoughts?

Before I had a chance to load the tune I had issues related to the previous owner following MOPAR'S oil spec and the bearings in the rocker arm seized destroying the camms. :banghead:

I am now back running and was able to load the tune I posted on page 42 and can report it works fine :pepper:

Hi GreyBeast, thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear the 526 tune is working for you. I have been taking lessons on WinOLS so I can confidently modify the tune for EGR delete and some more power between 2000 and 3000 rpm (i have a stock torque converter), however, I still have not been able to complete a modified tune for the 526.
Have you made any other mods to your 526 EGR/FCV delete tune or is it basically still stock mapping? If you have a updated 526 tune, that you are happy with, I would be happy to also use it, test it out and provide feedback as well. thanks, posting.php?mode=quote&f=98&p=892238#

Greybeast · **Joined:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:08 pm **Posts:** 5

3Dglasses wrote:

Greybeast wrote:

3Dglasses wrote:

OK, thanks for the info Yeti. I will try tom copy maps from the 808 to the 526.
Another question: has anyone tested out the "Greybeast-526-EGR_FCV_delete-stock.bin" that I saw posted a while back? (it is not posed on the first page, so I do not know if it is tested and reliable).
This might be a good place for me to start modifying instead of using my own original .bin file.
Thoughts?

Before I had a chance to load the tune I had issues related to the previous owner following MOPAR'S oil spec and the bearings in the rocker arm seized destroying the camms. :banghead:

I am now back running and was able to load the tune I posted on page 42 and can report it works fine :pepper:

Hi GreyBeast, thanks for the feedback. Glad to hear the 526 tune is working for you. I have been taking lessons on WinOLS so I can confidently modify the tune for EGR delete and some more power between 2000 and 3000 rpm (i have a stock torque converter), however, I still have not been able to complete a modified tune for the 526.
Have you made any other mods to your 526 EGR/FCV delete tune or is it basically still stock mapping? If you have a updated 526 tune, that you are happy with, I would be happy to also use it, test it out and provide feedback as well. thanks, posting.php?mode=quote&f=98&p=892238#

Hello 3D - it is nice to have another 526 owner active in the forum.

I also have the stock torque converter (for now) so my tune is basically stock with the EGR and FCV mapped to not operate - this effectively does a EGR delete without making any hardware changes.

I would love to collaborate with you on the 526 - I am planning on a couple of tunes - one optimized for torque (for towing and back woods crawling) and one for economy (for commuting)

Besides updating the tunes My intended Mechanical upgrades (in order) are to
1 - remove the exhaust restriction
2 - upgrade the transmission with the spring kit
3 - replace the torque converter
4 - get the Transmission control unit re-flashed back to the higher torque setting
? - Fuel tank lift pump, Gauges (EGT, Boost & Transmission temp), upgrade Differentials

3Dglasses · **Joined:** Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:10 pm **Posts:** 20

Hi GreyBeast,
I'm going to try out your 526 EGR delete tune as soon as a have the courage and time to attempt a re-flash of my ECU.
I had some ideas for a tune but am still learning how to make a tune. I would like to make a single tune to accomplish getting better MPG at low rpm's and has more power for towing and highway merging at mid rpms. (obviously, it is still going to require the driver to decide how far they want to put their foot down).

My goals are:
-I would like to get it to run more efficiently at low rpm's and maybe even lower the idle from 750 to 600 or 700. (if it does not increase vibrations).
- I'd like to squeeze some efficiency out of it 750 (idle) to about 2200 by utilizing the turbo a little more or adjusting the quantity of individual injections per power stroke. (I understand there are at least 3 injections, 1 pre / 1 post / 1 main injection, in order to achieve lower combustion temps and reduce NOx emissions).
- I'd like to increase the power output from 2200 to maybe 3500 or so by increasing injector duration and advancing injection timing. (i'd prefer to leave the high pressure fuel pump levels alone, so it does not fail pre-maturely).

My thinking behind this is:
-My stock torque converter has a shudder at 1700-1800 rpm if I let it shift to 4th or 5th (lockup), then give it just enough throttle to make more power but not enough to downshift. (my engine and trans is all stock).
-I suspect that with adding 50 more ft lb of torque, it will still hold fine at any rpm over 2000-2200 or so but will def increase shudder under that problematic lower rpm range, when in 4th or 5th gear lockup.
- The torque converter stall speed seems to be well above 2000 rpm from a stand still and above 2500 rpm when accelerating in gear (non-lockup), so the added power would be put right in the butter zone.

The problems that I am running into are:
- I am having a heck of a time figuring out which map controls what engine function.
- I am using WinOLS, because I can't get ECM titanium to work on my windows 10 machine, and I only have limited time available using my wife's windows 7 laptop, which ECM titanium and the MPPS cable software work on just fine.
- I basically just do not know how to tune yet, but I am trying to learn these programs.

If any of the experienced tuners can get me going in the right direction or provide me with some more detailed advice as the locations of the maps I need to modify or copy, and what the maps actually do, it would be much appreciated.

thanks,

Yeti · **Posted:** Tue May 24, 2016 9:12 am

viewtopic.php?f=98&t=83743 :wink:

3Dglasses · **Joined:** Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:10 pm **Posts:** 20

Yeti wrote:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=83743 :wink:

Ah yes, thank you Yeti, for the link. I will study these maps and use what I learn to identify the maps in my 526 file. Salute.

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2016 10:28 am

di nulla

kouik · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2016 12:39 pm

Anyone knows if there is a map for idle speed that has been identified?

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2016 2:38 pm

yes I know , let me know what file you have and I say the address

3Dglasses · **Joined:** Sat Jan 16, 2010 10:10 pm **Posts:** 20

Yeti wrote:

yes I know , let me know what file you have and I say the address

Hi Yeti,
Can you tell me which map is for the idle speed in the 526 file?

thanks,

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2016 4:01 pm

the break point start at 0F4D72 this is water temp in volt but you need a conversion factor , the second break point start at 0F4D82 and this is air temp in fahrenheit /10 and the idle value start at 0F4D8A

:wink:

kouik · **Posted:** Wed May 25, 2016 5:26 pm

Yeti wrote:

yes I know , let me know what file you have and I say the address

808

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu May 26, 2016 9:43 am

same adress it's the same sw

kouik · **Posted:** Thu May 26, 2016 10:51 am

Yeti wrote:

same adress it's the same sw

Thank you

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu May 26, 2016 1:27 pm

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu May 26, 2016 1:47 pm

Yeti Hot Tune decal I had made by a friend in the decal business:

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri May 27, 2016 9:52 am

woooowww , many thanks :wink:

Phx flyer · **Joined:** Fri May 27, 2016 10:57 pm **Posts:** 21

just bought a 2005 Liberty diesel and tried the smps mpps cable to download fcv/egr delete file from dropbox. after downloading original oem code, tried downloading 808 fcv/egr delete from dropbox. tried 3 different downloads and none of them would allow the vehicle to run. When original code is uploaded (reinstalled) jeep runs. My conclusions are there is something wrong with the 808 files I am downloading. Any help would be appreciated. Also, I see no checksum, is ecm titanium needed for this?

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Jun 01, 2016 5:49 am

you must sure that your riginal is the same file

Phx flyer · **Joined:** Fri May 27, 2016 10:57 pm **Posts:** 21

Thanks for the reply. Being new to flashing ecms, can you explain what you mean by "riginal"? How do I verify the same file? Also, what or how do I read checksums? Nothing comes up in the way of a checksum using Mpps.

Phx flyer · **Joined:** Fri May 27, 2016 10:57 pm **Posts:** 21

After thinking about your response, I guess you mean "origional file" ? I used the proceedure of using notepad to identify my oem software contained 808 . So, that is the yeti file type I uploaded. Is this what you mean? I also tried Nicks upload, same results, when I turn the key, nothing happens and fuel gauge reads nothing. Then I upload the origina lWith the origional read oem bin file and the jeep comes back to life & fuel gauge reads full. But I now have the error codes due to fcv and egr tube being blocked. with the original read I get:
VIN# ------------------(actual vin number)
Chrys ecu type' Bosch edc 16C/C2-9.9
Chrys software # 56044562CF
Chrys factory No CA5vu43koxxoo
Bosch ecu version No : RB Cnt_N0CR3K/430C
ECU found on KLine

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