Need help. Head bolt rounded off.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:14 pm

Working on getting the head off to replace the head gasket and the last bolt decided to round off. Felt like it was turning like all the rest and then discovered it had round off. Tried a socket extractor tool and it had no effect. What are my options?
Thanks

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:24 pm

Have you tried a six point socket? :shock:

JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:31 pm

Unfortunately the 6 point socket was what rounded it off

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JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:33 pm

The extractor made it worse

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:41 pm

Burn it to the ground. :pepper:

I'd try the next size smaller extractor and just beat the living piss out of it until you think it's on there good. Then ask a friend to hold the thing on there while you try to apply torque slowly to break it loose

JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:08 pm

Could a nut be welded on top/over the head? Any Concerns with welding over top of the head (would put a cover down over top and only bolt head would be exposed)?

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Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:09 pm

If the extractor failed I would weld a nut to the top and try again.

Make sure to put a metal barrier between the head and the bolt to keep the weld splatter from damaging the head.

Were you using a 11mm 6 point?

JDaPP · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:26 pm

Thanks I will give that a try. Was using 11mm 6 point. Looking at the socket I think I can see a hairline crack so maybe that was enough room to let it round the corners. Frustrating as it was the last one.

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geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:57 pm

This is why I suggest ALWAYS using impact rated sockets. I've broken probably 3 or 4 standard chrome sockets on these engines, but have yet to have an impact socket (even from China Freight) show any signs of damage even as I'm cranking the heck out of them.

Sorry you are having that trouble. If it isn't completely screwed, an impact set from Harbor Freight isn't too expensive and you can either grind down a couple flutes to make it a 10mm, or just hammer the socket on and weld it to the shoulders. That should be enough to get it removed.

turblediesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 4:25 am

Might try tightening the bolts around your trouble bolt before you try loosening it again. If there's room you might try drilling the head of the bolt off. Grinding the head off can work too but it'll cause a lot more abrasive debris. Consider whether the head has clearance to lift off over the headless bolt or if enough room can be had to manipulate pliars between the head and block to unscrew the bad bolt.

Good luck.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 8:49 am

When I rounded off the head of one of my head bolts, I went to the auto parts store and found a Irwin metric bolt extractor socket set.
The extractor socket worked great but it is now permanently married to that old head bolt.

jws84_02 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:03 am

flash7210 wrote:

When I rounded off the head of one of my head bolts, I went to the auto parts store and found a Irwin metric bolt extractor socket set.
The extractor socket worked great but it is now permanently married to that old head bolt.

Same here, I gave up and just threw the newlywed couple in the junk bin.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:04 am

flash7210 wrote:

When I rounded off the head of one of my head bolts, I went to the auto parts store and found a Irwin metric bolt extractor socket set.
The extractor socket worked great but it is now permanently married to that old head bolt.

Yep, that is what usually happens.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 3:56 pm

If you want to order a set, Found the best price for the extractor set on ebay for 53 and some change...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hanson-54019-9-Piece-Metric-Bolt-Extractor-Set-8mm-19mm-/272268311166?hash=item3f6474ba7e:g:PTYAAOSwubRXH8c1

JDaPP · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 9:49 pm

Appreciate the link. Tried the one size smaller extractor and beat it on. Unfortunately didn't work. A welder is stopping by tomorrow to self a nut on. Hopefully that works.

rankom · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 10:02 pm

yeah , professional welder can get it out for you , ,, they have the tools and skills to remove , broken bolts , exhaust studs axles , spindles with seized bearings ,etc .

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Jun 29, 2016 11:54 pm

JDaPP wrote:

Appreciate the link. Tried the one size smaller extractor and beat it on. Unfortunately didn't work. A welder is stopping by tomorrow to self a nut on. Hopefully that works.

Put heavy tinfoil, a disposable turkey tray, or other protection from splatter. all around the head surface.

JDaPP · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:10 pm

Finally got it off. Took 4 tries to get the nut to stay on long enough to get the bolt off. Welder said he never had a bolt give him that much trouble/couldn't believe it was in there that tight (he works on classic cars so gets some good ones). Tin foil worked great and he used something called anti slag right around the bolt head that did a good job as well, so thanks for the idea.
Now that I have the gasket out I just want to confirm the "tab" that lets you know which gasket you need is part of the gasket? My gasket has no holes on the "tab" part so I will order a 0 hole tomorrow if that is the right one. What I could make out of the part number was 22148f but I can't find anything that corresponds to that. Appreciate all the help.

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jws84_02 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:28 pm

It has been the opinion of some on here and I'll leave it up to you but if using arp studs a few of us are using the 2 hole gasket no matter what

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Jul 01, 2016 11:30 pm

The tab is the section in the middle of the gasket between cylinders 2 and 3 on the intake side.

Even though you have a no-hole, I would suggest ordering the two-hole for better sealing and clamping from the studs. You ARE installing studs after all this, yes?

I would also suggest a coating of Copper-Kote (sold in the auto store, looks like a spray can) on the deck of the block, both sides of the gasket and the underside of the head. Don't go goopy with it, but make it a solid thin coat of paint. It will fill in any imperfections from cleaning / scraping the old gasket coating off.

I would also suggest taking the time to take the head to a cylinder head specialist and have them inspect every one of the valves. I'm just pulling apart another failed engine that dropped an exhaust valve, and it looks like it failed in the MIDDLE of the exhaust section of the stem, below the weld. The weld did not fail, a section of the stem that shouldn't ever have failed just split right off.

Research continues on that part of the design and how to fix it.

Need help. Head bolt rounded off.

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